How To: Replace your own steering rack

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I disconnected the steering rod at the rack, after putting it all back together I'm probably off a spline or two (post alignment, car drives perfectly straight but steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock). I could probably just move the steering wheel over a spline or two but I'd rather fix it right.

Is there an easier way to disconnect the rod at the rack without having to loosen the rack, would that joint in the middle of the steering rod help me here?
 
I disconnected the steering rod at the rack, after putting it all back together I'm probably off a spline or two (post alignment, car drives perfectly straight but steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock). I could probably just move the steering wheel over a spline or two but I'd rather fix it right.

Is there an easier way to disconnect the rod at the rack without having to loosen the rack, would that joint in the middle of the steering rod help me here?

Depends, how many turns lock to lock do you have right now? Is it equal # of turns each way? It could just need an alignment or you may need to loosen the rack to move it a couple splines. IMO just loosening the column at the rack is the easiest/best way.
 
Depends, how many turns lock to lock do you have right now? Is it equal # of turns each way? It could just need an alignment or you may need to loosen the rack to move it a couple splines. IMO just loosening the column at the rack is the easiest/best way.

Yeah like I said in my post, post alignment my steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock, it's not pulling. It's roughly the same amount of turns each way, but a spline or two would be hard to feel the difference.

I can loosen the rack and fight with disconnected at the rack, it was a pain though and I was hoping there was an easier way.

Edit: Went back to page 15, looks like if I loosen some of the bolts higher up on the shaft it will slide up and down for me. I didn't do that the first time and it was a bear.
 
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Yeah like I said in my post, post alignment my steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock, it's not pulling. It's roughly the same amount of turns each way, but a spline or two would be hard to feel the difference.

I can loosen the rack and fight with disconnected at the rack, it was a pain though and I was hoping there was an easier way.
I mean if the steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock the alignment wasn't done properly. Even if you are off a few splines on the rack it should still be centered in the wheel, you would just have an unequal # of turns lock to lock.
 
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Also, it looks like the R&P is on sale for $312...I just paid $475 😥
Don't feel bad.... you would certainly feel worse if you ordered that part...

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What's the best price out there right now for a rack? My local dealers are quoting $789. Seems a tad high.
 
What's the best price out there right now for a rack? My local dealers are quoting $789. Seems a tad high.
My dealer quoted me like $800, I bought mine from here.
 
My dealer quoted me like $800, I bought mine from here.

Thanks for the link! Definitely a better price than my local. Hopefully they don't make up for it with a $300 shipping charge :)
 
I mean if the steering wheel sits at 10-11 o'clock the alignment wasn't done properly. Even if you are off a few splines on the rack it should still be centered in the wheel, you would just have an unequal # of turns lock to lock.

Hmm, they would have had to make it up using a tie-rod, but then the toe would be potentially out of spec, wouldn't it?
 
Oh, just a good excuse to buy some more tools and spend hours rolling around on a creeper. :D
Too much play on driver side linkage of rack, could not align wheels.
I have a 2000 LC and think these numbers are good thru 2002

44250-60050 - new rack
90178-14003 - need 2 lock nuts
90105-14121 - need 2 lock bolts
44327-30030 – 1 gasket for banjo fitting PS fluid line.

Super Pro urethane rack mounting bushings - SPF2470K
Will these parts work for my 2005 LX?
 
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The design had been changed somewhere near 2003. Both the rack and the bushing are different (probably better). I’d think it (the part numbers of the facelift) is covered somewhere on the forum, just have find it.
 
Question for the collective: is this more, or less difficult than a timing belt job?
 

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