How To: Replace your own steering rack (6 Viewers)

[MJK]

I think I need to replace my high pressure power steering hose and have some questions for those who have been here before.

P/N 44410-60593 is $300 from Partssouq, $500 from domestic vendors and has both the line I need and the cooler line. SUNSONG 3403598 has the same pair for $100 from Rockauto. There is also a Gates 365086 which has only the HP line for $100. Any experiences positive or negative with the cheaper options?

I don't think the rack needs to come out to swap this over. Can anyone confirm?

Also, I see no play in inner or outer TREs. Is there anything else I should check prior to taking all this stuff apart?

Thanks for any wisdom you can share.

 

[mesa man]

I would go with OEM if you can. Check for play in steering rack bushings.

 

[jerryb]

if I was trusting my life with a hose, it would be gates and not oem. parker > gates > oem. if you could have the ding dong set in your hand and the gates you could probably see a difference in the fittings and harware.
as luck would have it, fedex is delivering the cheap set to me today. Im going to look at the fittings and the banjo bolt and decide.
I'm sure a lot of users have used the cheaper version. It's rough when you just bought a new rack and rod ends to go with it. I have time to return it and do something else if it looks funny.

 

[abuck99]

I bought the Sunsong lines ahead of doing the steering rack work- so its not yet installed. But as a visual reference the quality & construction looks good to me: hoses, fittings, etc. The only exception/difference I notice is the steel tubing section which is bare/unpainted and on the OEM part has a partial protective coating. If you live in the salt belt or are exposed to corrosive environment I think a coat of por15, or some undercoat on the steel tubing section before install would extend the life of the part.

 

[DirtDawg]

Sunsong lines installed for 3+ years. Zero issues.

 

[2001LC]

I just installed a Sunsong. Looks good and no issues. Can't beat the price. I've also had old HP lines rebuilt, but at twice the cost.

 

[PabloCruise]

Crazy I had to go back to Oct of '17 to find my pics! Time flies I guess...

Difference btwn factory low pressure fitting and Sunsong:

From here: How To: Replace your own steering rack

 

[MJK]

Thanks Gents. Appreciate the wisdom.

 

[OwnerCS]

Just looking a high-pressure hoses for a 99 model LX, I found the ACDELCO 36-365590 and GATES 365590 to be the same hose. Both sell around the Web for just under $100. O'Reilly sells the Gates hose for $252.99. to owners who are in a pinch. Ouch.

Gates Fitting

I have see many crying pumps on Nissans after an aftermarket high pressure hose has been installed. The fluid passageway at the banjo bolt is slightly smaller than OEM. The ones I know about are very picky about aftermarket parts for high-pressure lines.

I really like the looks of the SUNSONG 3401246 set. It comes with brackets and hose insulator and an OEM looking hose clamp. I have already purchased the return hose. If the SUNSONG high pressure hose is a quality product, this could be a deal. I don't have 1st hand experience with aftermarket high pressure hoses.

Does anyone have experience with the SUNSONG high pressure line or this kit?

 

[jerryb]

if all those above you say it's fine, it probably is. I'm going to measure the difference in bajo orifice tomorrow on the later sunsong set compared with OE.
Thankfully this set up isn't at all like recent nissan pandemics. hahah. boredom is bad.
sunsong pipe OD is 10mm assume inner is 7mm.
best guess with a 5.5mm 90° feeler block is 6.5mm inner diameter on the banjo orifice, both ends. Orifice at idle up valve at the flare is 5.5mm + or - but doesn't matter.

edited 4.16 banjo bolts are the same as stock.

 

[jerryb]

I don't know how or why but I could not get the rack out without removing the fan shroud. I don't know if there is something different about the lower member it bolts to or what. it just wouldn't come out. I fought it for an hour or so then removed the fan and shroud and it just falls out almost.
the weird thing was when I put the fan and shroud back in the blades were hitting the shroud on the top. As if I deformed it or it took a new set as it sat in the grass the rest of the day. Either way it was deformed. I ordered a new shroud. Never saw that coming. I've had the shroud and fan out many times so I know it was something I did while pushing and pulling the old rack against the shroud at the bottom to get the rack out.
pretty easy job. Replacing the two hoses take more time than anything.
A guy a couple pages back said the LP hose to the cooler was too long, it is. I cut an inch off but it wasn't enough. I left it long as to not undo it a second time.
Also if you just bend the hard pipe right it will kink right at the fitting(not banjo) by the pinion. Provided you have both new hoses to install.

i wish there was a magic number for exposed threads on the ends with all new stock parts.
I spent a lot of time, leveling the frame, leveling the inner ends and measuring. My old ones, all stock originals were at 6 threads P side and 7 threads D side.
I put them at 6.5 exposed both sides. Drives ok but I can tell it isn't great.
1.5 turns lock to lock, almost perfect.

Also replaced the drivers side exhaust manifold since the engine was jacked up. that's way worse than the rack.

 

[OwnerCS]

I don't know how or why but I could not get the rack out without removing the fan shroud. I don't know if there is something different about the lower member it bolts to or what. it just wouldn't come out. I fought it for an hour or so then removed the fan and shroud and it just falls out almost.
the weird thing was when I put the fan and shroud back in the blades were hitting the shroud on the top. As if I deformed it or it took a new set as it sat in the grass the rest of the day. Either way it was deformed. I ordered a new shroud. Never saw that coming. I've had the shroud and fan out many times so I know it was something I did while pushing and pulling the old rack against the shroud at the bottom to get the rack out.
pretty easy job. Replacing the two hoses take more time than anything.
A guy a couple pages back said the LP hose to the cooler was too long, it is. I cut an inch off but it wasn't enough. I left it long as to not undo it a second time.
Also if you just bend the hard pipe right it will kink right at the fitting(not banjo) by the pinion. Provided you have both new hoses to install.

i wish there was a magic number for exposed threads on the ends with all new stock parts.
I spent a lot of time, leveling the frame, leveling the inner ends and measuring. My old ones, all stock originals were at 6 threads P side and 7 threads D side.
I put them at 6.5 exposed both sides. Drives ok but I can tell it isn't great.
1.5 turns lock to lock, almost perfect.

Also replaced the drivers side exhaust manifold since the engine was jacked up. that's way worse than the rack.

That is good news about the 1.5 turns to lock. I was able to loosen the fan shroud so it would give clearance for me lifting the engine. The shroud has a couple of broken tabs. I have a new shroud in the box to be installed when I go through the engine to replace gaskets.

Did you use a technique for centering the rack and holding it in place during installation?

I have the steering wheel centered and tied down with rope to keep it in the center clock position while I connect the rack. I'm just pondering (and maybe overthinking) how to know that the rack is in the center position.

 

[PabloCruise]

That is good news about the 1.5 turns to lock. I was able to loosen the fan shroud so it would give clearance for me lifting the engine. The shroud has a couple of broken tabs. I have a new shroud in the box to be installed when I go through the engine to replace gaskets.

Did you use a technique for centering the rack and holding it in place during installation?

I have the steering wheel centered and tied down with rope to keep it in the center clock position while I connect the rack. I'm just pondering (and maybe overthinking) how to know that the rack is in the center position.

How To: Replace your own steering rack

Now up to $55, but still available while most are only selling it w/ the high pressure line: Sunsong North America 3402991 Power Steering Return Hose | eBay This delivered quickly and fit reasonably well. The threaded fastener is a little different than factory. I took some pictures that I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jerryb]

@OwnerCS
I have a new shroud in the box to be installed when I go through the engine to replace gaskets.

Did you use a technique for centering the rack and holding it in place during installation?

no I did not, I bolted it down and then centered for connecting lower shaft, bolt in, then tighten upper two bolts. then turn rack with the steering wheel so lower bolt on the shaft faced the floor to tighten it from the bottom.

I have the steering wheel centered and tied down with rope to keep it in the center clock position while I connect the rack. I'm just pondering (and maybe overthinking) how to know that the rack is in the center position.

measure off the frame, mag level, phone app etc. Level up and down and straight side to side off any reference point. then connect the shaft without turning the wheel or pushing the rack.
It's easier too just do it and not get caught up much in all the talk. It's self explanatory.
Age and rust will kill the ease, if you can call it that, of this job no doubt.

I get a new shroud wednesday. Something to look forward to I guess. And a caliper swap.

 

[kevin2i]

I have my front axle out, so thinking it is time to replace the rack. Minimal leak(1/4 cup per 20,000 miles) but with almost 300,000k replacement now should be easy. Anyone pull it out without the axle?

My diff seal leaked (didn't catch it early enough) and I am getting tired of the Ring and Pinion growl after 70k. Inspect axles carefully, rebooting is not rebuilding anything. (will post pic later).

Best rack price around? My dealer matches any price other dealers advertise online if I bring him the listing. The parts guy says it saves him time looking it up, so this is a 'win-win' Arrangement is great, because no shipping.
$475 Toyota OEM Part # 44250-60050

 

[abuck99]

You're lucky to have early model year; the 04-up are an additional $135.

 

[jerryb]

Even more insulting seeing that 200 lc racks are are almost 2 bills cheaper.

 

[2001LC]

I have my front axle out, so thinking it is time to replace the rack. Minimal leak(1/4 cup per 20,000 miles) but with almost 300,000k replacement now should be easy. Anyone pull it out without the axle?

My diff seal leaked (didn't catch it early enough) and I am getting tired of the Ring and Pinion growl after 70k. Inspect axles carefully, rebooting is not rebuilding anything. (will post pic later).

Best rack price around? My dealer matches any price other dealers advertise online if I bring him the listing. The parts guy says it saves him time looking it up, so this is a 'win-win' Arrangement is great, because no shipping.
$475 Toyota OEM Part # 44250-60050

View attachment 2290004

I have. Benefit of having DS front drive shaft (axle) out, is it gives good access to the steering column input shaft.

 

[OwnerCS]

I bought the Sunsong 3401246 hose kit from RockAuto. It looks much more substantial than it appears in the picture. I was impressed with the construction.

To coat the bare metal surface areas so they will not take on a oxidized look, I cleaned the metal areas with acetone then sprayed the surface areas with two coats of Duplicolor Clear Wheel Gloss. The wheel product sticks well to aluminum and holds up to heat that occurs on wheels. I just wanted to put on a light coat of protection without changing the look.

 

[Matt Phelps]

Finished the tear down and removal today. Bushings on the driver side were totally shot and just fell out of the rack. Hope to get it all put back together and aligned tomorrow.

Garage floor looks messy. An automotive battlefield.