How To: Replace your own steering rack (2 Viewers)

[AimCOtaco]

Looks like you turned your rack off center to get it out? Do you think you could have left it centered and gotten it out the front?

I don't think so, because the rack itself (the moving center, i.e. the rack in rack and pinion) would hit the clearance in the frame, and you can't shift the whole unit over because of the steering input stub hitting the engine. I can't guarantee this as it was awhile ago but looking at the pics and reading my old dribble I think it's correct. YMMV though depending on whether you get the steering input shaft off first or not.

Have you dug in yet or are you in the planning stage?

 

[PabloCruise]

I don't think so, because the rack itself (the moving center, i.e. the rack in rack and pinion) would hit the clearance in the frame, and you can't shift the whole unit over because of the steering input stub hitting the engine. I can't guarantee this as it was awhile ago but looking at the pics and reading my old dribble I think it's correct. YMMV though depending on whether you get the steering input shaft off first or not.

Have you dug in yet or are you in the planning stage?

Planning stages... I am leaking, but have not assessed play in the rack and ends.

 

[PabloCruise]

A simple question for those who have done this already - can you separate the steering column shaft from the rack while the rack is still bolted/attached to the frame? Or do you need the movement of sliding the rack forward to disconnect from the steering column?

 

[Rolocado]

A simple question for those who have done this already - can you separate the steering column shaft from the rack while the rack is still bolted/attached to the frame? Or do you need the movement of sliding the rack forward to disconnect from the steering column?

You can disconnect it at three different points. One inside the cabin under the steering wheel, one just outside the firewall in the engine bay, and one at the rack. The first two are the easiest to adjust and manipulate as there is a sliding yoke on both of them

 

[87warrior]

A simple question for those who have done this already - can you separate the steering column shaft from the rack while the rack is still bolted/attached to the frame? Or do you need the movement of sliding the rack forward to disconnect from the steering column?

Yes, as @Rolocado indicated there are three places the intermediate shaft can be separated from the rack. When I removed the original rack, I could not get the intermediate shaft to separate from the rack. 246k miles of grime and corrosion will do that. Instead of pulling the intermediate shaft from the rack, I separated it at the joint just outside the firewall. This joint only fits together one way and when loosened up allows the lower part of the shaft to slide so you can attach it to the rack after the rack is bolted in position. Make sure you grease/lubricate the intermediate shafts splines prior to installation so it can easily be maneuvered on the truck.

Here you can see the lower intermediate shaft separated from the rack after the rack was pulled from the Cruiser.

 

[PabloCruise]

I will be doing this sometime soon. My inner ends have some bad play in them...

 

[PabloCruise]

A friend replaced the rack in his '99 LC a few years ago, he was telling me he had to pull the lower rad hose and drain coolant to replace rack.
I don't recall seeing anyone do that in this thread - just wanting to check - do I need to plan on buying coolant and doing a flush?

 

[Rolocado]

A friend replaced the rack in his '99 LC a few years ago, he was telling me he had to pull the lower rad hose and drain coolant to replace rack.
I don't recall seeing anyone do that in this thread - just wanting to check - do I need to plan on buying coolant and doing a flush?

Nahhhhh, no need, he silly

 

[PabloCruise]

It seems like this could be a good time to switch from regular ATF to synthetic.

Has anyone done that when replacing the rack? Do you just empty the lines and refill w/ synthetic?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

It seems like this could be a good time to switch from regular ATF to synthetic.

Has anyone done that when replacing the rack? Do you just empty the lines and refill w/ synthetic?

Yes, as the op suggests in step #19 of his initial post.

 

[AimCOtaco]

If you mean the steering to synthetic ATF, yep, now or ahead of the job would be fine. I've been steering with M1 ATF for several years but changed slowly by doing a partial change (the reservoir volume) at every oil change for awhile. If you want to do this, I'd start now with the old stuff and get it all flushed over to synthetic even before you change the rack, that way the pump and plumbing will be all clean new fluid even before the new rack goes in. You could get way ahead by cleaning out the reservoir thoroughly the first time as well check, I'd out some of the posts from @2001LC , some great details on flushing and cleaning the steering system in his stuff. Total volume is not much, I'm guessing <1qt for a dry fill.

 

[PabloCruise]

If you mean the steering to synthetic ATF, yep, now or ahead of the job would be fine. I've been steering with M1 ATF for several years but changed slowly by doing a partial change (the reservoir volume) at every oil change for awhile. If you want to do this, I'd start now with the old stuff and get it all flushed over to synthetic even before you change the rack, that way the pump and plumbing will be all clean new fluid even before the new rack goes in. You could get way ahead by cleaning out the reservoir thoroughly the first time as well check, I'd out some of the posts from @2001LC , some great details on flushing and cleaning the steering system in his stuff. Total volume is not much, I'm guessing <1qt for a dry fill.

Awesome, thanks. That answers another question I forgot to ask if there was any problems w/ regular ATF mingling w/ synthetic.

Not much time to change out, doing the rack this weekend.

 

[PabloCruise]

Another question - how many miles did y'all have on your original rack when it came time to replace?

Thanks!

 

[PabloCruise]

Quick question, if I am raising the engine on the DS, do I need to pull the oil filter housing off?

 

[PabloCruise]

Today I removed the front diff, and the steering rack.

I have some things to add to this write up


However... The friend that was helping me was not satisfied with the idea of disconnecting seals in the engine oil system by removing the housing and did not want to drain the coolant. He looked carefully at it and suggested we just lift the engine about an inch.

We unbolted the one side engine mounts (2 #14's) and jacked it up just a bit. Here is the separation in the mounting plates.

This lifted the filter mount and coolant line just enough to slide the rack out. Piece of cake. Here's some pictures.

Notice, oil filter housing still in place.

I am not a skilled mechanic by any means, but I learn as I go and do as much work as I can. It will be easier to fix on a trail if I've done it in the shop. Yes this was a little difficult of a job, but only in time and access frustrations. I had it a little easier with the diff out, and a smart friend helping. I am glad I have done this work myself...of course I still have to put it together.

Thanks Engine er for the writeup and the courage.

Quick question, if I am raising the engine on the DS, do I need to pull the oil filter housing off?

So sorry, the answer was right below. Wondering if I can leave the oil filter on too if I raise the engine up...

 

[PabloCruise]

Today I removed the front diff, and the steering rack.

I have some things to add to this write up

However... The friend that was helping me was not satisfied with the idea of disconnecting seals in the engine oil system by removing the housing and did not want to drain the coolant. He looked carefully at it and suggested we just lift the engine about an inch.

We unbolted the one side engine mounts (2 #14's) and jacked it up just a bit. Here is the separation in the mounting plates.

I am having problems getting the forward 14mm bolt loose - any advice? I just can't get any leverage to break it loose. The lower bolt feels like it is welded on to the plate - it is a 15mm. The back nut was not affixed to the plate, it was a 14mm.

 

[Rolocado]

I am having problems getting the forward 14mm bolt loose - any advice? I just can't get any leverage to break it loose. The lower bolt feels like it is welded on to the plate - it is a 15mm. The back nut was not affixed to the plate, it was a 14mm.

Filter needs to come off, leave the housing on
Add a picture of which nut you’re talking about

 

[PabloCruise]

The forward engine mount bolt.
You can get to the back one easy-peasy.
The one in front is difficult to turn, there is no room.
I am trying from below. I can't see how you could get it from above.

 

[PabloCruise]

The forward engine mount bolt.
You can get to the back one easy-peasy.
The one in front is difficult to turn, there is no room.
I am trying from below. I can't see how you could get it from above.

View attachment 1554855

Here is the engine mount from the back:

 

[PabloCruise]

Sorry the orientations are off, pictures are straight off the phone.