How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

[portage2forage]

Hi all,

Appreciate this thread!

I am having someone replace my rack and pinion on a 2000 LX470 (151k miles).

Looking to order OEM parts. Sounds like there a few different leads on the thread for best price but anyone have advice for my specific model? My understanding is that the LX and Land Cruiser part differs slightly.

Lastly, from what I gathered, the inner tie rods are included but I should buy and replace outer tie rods while I’m at it. Along with replacing the bushings.

Any advice on where to purchase these and lastly anything else I should do while he’s working on the r+p?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if this was already covered somewhere…scanned the thread and still had these questions.

 

[trdtoyotrk]

Hi all,

Appreciate this thread!

I am having someone replace my rack and pinion on a 2000 LX470 (151k miles).

Looking to order OEM parts. Sounds like there a few different leads on the thread for best price but anyone have advice for my specific model? My understanding is that the LX and Land Cruiser part differs slightly.

Lastly, from what I gathered, the inner tie rods are included but I should buy and replace outer tie rods while I’m at it. Along with replacing the bushings.

Any advice on where to purchase these and lastly anything else I should do while he’s working on the r+p?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if this was already covered somewhere…scanned the thread and still had these questions.

I just wrapped up mine and the best thing to do is use your vin# to search and get the part number. If it's a shared part with Toyota, there is a free shipping code for participating dealers. You can search and look up various dealers, it's tedious but worth the savings.

Double check for core charge. Stevens Creek Toyota in CA has a good price with no core charge and free shipping using "FREESHIP". Their dealership is straight 25% off parts when ordered online. I've also had good luck with Larry H. Miller Toyota and Carlock Toyota.

If removing the oil filter housing there is a gasket that needs to be replaced. The new rack comes with new bushing on the rack itself, but the one that goes around the larger diamater of the rack on passenger side is not included and may need a new one. Outter tie rods are required as well.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Found Bell Lexus in AZ to be just a hair cheaper than Stevens Creek, both of which were much lower than competitors since they don't have core charges and are running free shipping promotions. Just ordered mine today. The part numbers were the same between the two websites, which I found surprising. Some people on here have said that Lexus parts are "chosen from the top 1%" of Toyota parts. Hopefully that's true!

 

[Red Beard]

Couple questions for the people who have completed this:

1. What type of block do I need for lifting the engine? I don't have anything laying around so I would need to buy something. Do I need to go by some 2x4 from Lowes or something?

2. How much space do I need on the sides to get the rack out and in? I'm assuming a decent amount. I'm asking because my garage (more like carport) is really tight on the sides but it's going to rain so I wanted to see if I could do this job in there. I'm talking about a 1.5 ft of clearance on each side.

3. Any 05+ folks end up needing 2ft of extensions and universal joints?

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Couple questions for the people who have completed this:

1. What type of block do I need for lifting the engine? I don't have anything laying around so I would need to buy something. Do I need to go by some 2x4 from Lowes or something?

2. How much space do I need on the sides to get the rack out and in? I'm assuming a decent amount. I'm asking because my garage (more like carport) is really tight on the sides but it's going to rain so I wanted to see if I could do this job in there. I'm talking about a 1.5 ft of clearance on each side.

3. Any 05+ folks end up needing 2ft of extensions and universal joints?

1. Yes, use a 2x4. Jack up the engine under the bell housing (slowly. Be sure you unbolted the fan shroud and all the other steps that people mention) just enough to fit a 2x4 under the engine mount.

2. If you have enough space to get your wheels off, you'll be fine. The rack doesn't come out from one side. It is shuffled around underneath the vehicle. It was much easier than I expected once I had the engine lifted.

3. 2002. Dunno. For what it's worth, I didn't need anything wild. Maybe a 6" extension at times. For the most part I just had to find creative ways to break torque. After that I'd use a tiny 1/4" ratchet to remove the bolts because it could fit in the tight spaces easier.

 

[Red Beard]

Got the steering rack out! I had to use every tool I had access to. Shout out to everyone on this thread and the contributors to the PDF!

I couldn’t get the steering shaft decoupled at the rack so I loosened it from the firewall yoke and pulled on the rack once it was loose. Even with the rack now out, that shaft is stuck on. A new one is on the way.

The jam nut on my DS TRE was so stuck. Seems like past mechanics tried to get it off and probably left it because it was almost rounded off and the PS wasn’t that hard. New jam nuts on the way as well.

But I was still able to somehow finagle the whole thing out, rack, steering shaft and both tie rod ends attached.

Next is to clean up around where the old rack was, get the old hoses off, and wait for parts to come. I’m hoping I can get some other front end work done in the mean time.

 

[Petertn45]

View attachment 2696007
Got the steering rack out! I had to use every tool I had access to. Shout out to everyone on this thread and the contributors to the PDF!

I couldn’t get the steering shaft decoupled at the rack so I loosened it from the firewall yoke and pulled on the rack once it was loose. Even with the rack now out, that shaft is stuck on. A new one is on the way.

The jam nut on my DS TRE was so stuck. Seems like past mechanics tried to get it off and probably left it because it was almost rounded off and the PS wasn’t that hard. New jam nuts on the way as well.

But I was still able to somehow finagle the whole thing out, rack, steering shaft and both tie rod ends attached.

Next is to clean up around where the old rack was, get the old hoses off, and wait for parts to come. I’m hoping I can get some other front end work done in the mean time.

Nice job! I had the same problem with the shaft stuck to the rack but finally got it loose after many rounds of pounding, fire, and rust eater/penetrating oil. If I had known, I would have just ordered a new shaft ahead of time.

Getting it all back together and driving it is like....such a great feeling after all that sweat and time!

 

[Eyedaho]

I learned a couple of things when I replaced my rack last weekend that might help someone else out. I replaced my hoses with the Sunsong set from Rock Auto, and they seem great. The set included copper gaskets and the affixing brackets to secure the hoses to the rack and the frame rail. Would definitely buy again.

I secured my steering wheel with the seatbelt bucket buckled through the bottom to keep the wheels centered and tried to match up the TRE length between old and new, but the wheel ended up a little off center. This was super easy to fix though, and if I did this again I would just pull the steering wheel before I started and align if afterwards. The danger with the steering wheel getting out of alignment is that you can damage the airbag clock spring by over rotating it. Since it keys into the back of the steering wheel though, it won't spin with the wheel pulled. There are step by step directions for aligning the clock spring on a sticker on the front of it to realign when you're done. With only two screws on the side of the steering wheel and the center nut, I don't think this took longer than five minutes. With my steering shaft not being keyed at either end, I would not mess with trying to keep it perfectly aligned if I did this again, and would pull the wheel first to not damage the clock spring and then realign the clock spring and steering wheel after the new rack is installed.

***This is on my '99 LC. Not positive if other years and/or LX are the same.

 

[uncljerr]

What are some of the symptons of a bad steering rack? I am currently tacking the bushings but since I have the oil cooler out I am considering just swaping out the rack now.

 

[fblainen11]

What are some of the symptons of a bad steering rack? I am currently tacking the bushings but since I have the oil cooler out I am considering just swaping out the rack now.

Leaking fluid is what I noticed.

 

[harrydunn]

Same. Or wet boots.

 

[fblainen11]

What are some of the symptons of a bad steering rack? I am currently tacking the bushings but since I have the oil cooler out I am considering just swaping out the rack now.

I could probably use a new steering rack. But I just added some AT-205 and the leak stopped. My mechanic who is very experienced is a firm believer in the stuff and said it is the only pour in product he recommends for leaks as it does no harm and actually can work.

The steering is still fine in my opinion. I have larger tires.

 

[uncljerr]

Thanks. I decided not to replace it since its still working fine. While researching I came across this company who rebuilds LC Racks. About $300 shipped after core return with lifetime warranty. I emailed the company and they states they only rebuild OEM racks and accept OEM as core.

2003-2007 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion | OE Power Steering Rack

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advantagesteering.com

 

[fblainen11]

Thanks. I decided not to replace it since its still working fine. While researching I came across this company who rebuilds LC Racks. About $300 shipped after core return with lifetime warranty. I emailed the company and they states they only rebuild OEM racks and accept OEM as core.

2003-2007 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion | OE Power Steering Rack

2003-2007 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion, Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion, 2003 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion, 2004 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion, 2005 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack & Pinion, 2006 Lexus LX470 Toyota Landcruiser Rack...

advantagesteering.com

Bummer. No option for 2002.

 

[PabloCruise]

What are some of the symptons of a bad steering rack? I am currently tacking the bushings but since I have the oil cooler out I am considering just swaping out the rack now.

Worn inner ends/excessive play, and leaks.

 

[Tanner H]

Need some help tracking down an issue with a new rack. @2001LC maybe a bleeding issue?

PROBLEM: If i'm driving at slow speeds and turn the wheel a few turns, its smooth and easy...but if I quickly crank the wheel to the opposite direction...it feels like there is a lot of resistance. So for example if I'm pulling into a parking spot at the store, I'll turn left to line up, then quickly pull the wheel right to get into the parking spot. Normal driving is nice and easy. Lane changes, pulling out of parking spots, etc...

My old rack didnt do this, So really focusing on the new rack being the culprit. Anyone else have this issue? Could there still be air in the system? I feel like I burped it enough.


Couple things I did yesterday to try and remedy the situation to no avail:

- new power steering pump (old one was nice and quiet but still replaced)
-new power steering air control valve
-removed reservoir and cleaned inside and out as much as possible (I should not that the fluid was really dirt. black and thin)
-refilled with maxlife atf and burped system.

 

[2001LC]

If this "resistance" is happening while stationary or very very slow roll, it may be normal. Size, thread type and PSI of tires can makes big difference here. Poor alignment can accentuate.

That said, who replaced the rack?

You mention dirty fluid. Well that's not good! All fluid should have been removed and reservoir cleaned (including screen) before new rack, pump or lines installed. Not doing so can introduce gunk, metal particles or whatever nasty stuff was in system into new rack. I'd flush a few more times, between every few hundred miles.

Make sure to bleed air, by the book.

Is it a new OEM, OEM rebuilt or other?

Condition and torque of mounting bolts, which FSM states "non reusable".

Year.? Up to 2002 has a horse shoes bushing on right side, was it replace a set in properly.

Check the intermediate shaft and it's universals!

Additionally:
Front end is a system of many moving parts. Condition of all can make a difference. i.e: TRE, LCA, LCA bushing, UCA, UCA bushing, Ball joints, FDS (AKA CV's), wheel bearings, wheels.

Very often shops beat of the ball joints. This includes TRE's. Unfortunately while pounding away to get them released. Very often they miss the mark and hit the boot. Doing so almost always damages the ball joint under the boot. I've replaced many ball joints, due to them taking a hammer hits by others. I use pullers!

 

[xenon]

Thankful for this wealth of information, Only 2 items are keeping me from removing the rack. One is stupidly easy, the other not so.
Tried prying and poking, but can't get the connector off of the oil pressure sensor.

Second item, steering shaft is frozen to the output shaft of the rack. I removed all the bolts. No amount of pounding has loosed the shaft in the least. Have read that the rack can be pulled with shaft attached, but can not figure out what the procedure would be to do this. So near, and yet so far.

 

[MarkTR]

If I cannot slow my steering rack weepage with an additive and since I cannot perform the change out myself because of my back- I have been checking out somewhat local mechanics/shops.

I called the only shop within 50 miles that a local parts guy says has worked on Land Cruisers. The mechanic who I spoke to at that shop never pulled a steering rack from an LC but said someone in the shop has done them before. I doubt that that mechanic knows all of the tips given in this thread- like only removing the oil filter and jacking up the motor on the driver's side to gain room to remove the rack.

The price was about $1K including using a rebuilt rack from either O'Reilly's or NAPA with a two-year warranty.

Since many here have gone with a new Toyota rack or a rebuilt rack from Advantage Steering a lifetime “limited” warranty- that is the path I was going down.

If I bring my own parts the Labor price goes up and will cost me about $700- so another $700-$800 for an OEM rack for a total of about $1500.


I have not seen too many reviews of the NAPA or O'Reilly's rebuilt racks, so I assume I should go OEM or AS and pay the extra labor costs.


Is there enough experience here to say that the OEM or the AS rebuilt rack are equally good- or is OEM the only way to go if you have to have another mechanic perform the job.

 

[Roosevelt T]

If I cannot slow my steering rack weepage with an additive and since I cannot perform the change out myself because of my back- I have been checking out somewhat local mechanics/shops.

I called the only shop within 50 miles that a local parts guy says has worked on Land Cruisers. The mechanic who I spoke to at that shop never pulled a steering rack from an LC but said someone in the shop has done them before. I doubt that that mechanic knows all of the tips given in this thread- like only removing the oil filter and jacking up the motor on the driver's side to gain room to remove the rack.

The price was about $1K including using a rebuilt rack from either O'Reilly's or NAPA with a two-year warranty.

Since many here have gone with a new Toyota rack or a rebuilt rack from Advantage Steering a lifetime “limited” warranty- that is the path I was going down.

If I bring my own parts the Labor price goes up and will cost me about $700- so another $700-$800 for an OEM rack for a total of about $1500.


I have not seen too many reviews of the NAPA or O'Reilly's rebuilt racks, so I assume I should go OEM or AS and pay the extra labor costs.


Is there enough experience here to say that the OEM or the AS rebuilt rack are equally good- or is OEM the only way to go if you have to have another mechanic perform the job.

OEM racks are 800 now? I think I paid ~550. I can answer you this way: I have a reman'd sitting in my garage because I bought one then decided against it. This is the worst thing I have replaced on the entire vehicle, if it died in a yr and I had to do it again because of the reman'd rack I'd want to murder someone.

Which leads me to the second part. I'd pay 700 FOR SURE.