HOW TO: Replace Distributor O Ring (3 Viewers)

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Right on great cruiser colors think alike!
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Bluetribal,

Did you check the timing after install? Mine ran great once i got it all lined up but the timing was pretty far off.

I would suggest checking the timing before driving it too long. Dont forget to use the jumper to jump the FI terminals when checking the timing. FSM tells exactly how.
 
Does anyone know if it is possible to use the Scangauge to check the timing after reinstalling the distributor? It does have an ignition timing readout, so I wonder if it would report the timing correctly with the jumper plug in place in the terminals underhood.
 
Thanks to a very informative post, I have successfully replaced the o-ring, as well as the plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor. Screwed up the timing at first, but practice makes almost perfect, and my truck now starts!

Thanks again to Dixie for the write up and pics.

J.
 
Did mine yesterday and it was simple. Just bump the rotor until it is pointing to the # 1 contact. make sure that the disti goes back to the same position. If you watch when pulling out the old disti how far it rotates you will know exactly where to position the rotor when installing the new one.
 
Just did mine according to the instructions.
It took like 20 mins. The hardest part was lining up the crank wheel with the zero mark.

Regards

Alvaro
 
While not totally essential, even if you have marked the distibutor with the engine, it's not a bad idea to do a timing check after doing this. While my engine felt like it was running perfect, I had slightly less power and crap mileage. Checked my timing ( like 6 months later) and found out that my timing was at about 0 degrees, so pretty retarded from the factory set 3*. Now it is advanced to about 6* and my power is better.
 
While not totally essential, even if you have marked the distibutor with the engine, it's not a bad idea to do a timing check after doing this. While my engine felt like it was running perfect, I had slightly less power and crap mileage. Checked my timing ( like 6 months later) and found out that my timing was at about 0 degrees, so pretty retarded from the factory set 3*. Now it is advanced to about 6* and my power is better.

Good call. Will do!

Alvaro
 
It is VERY easy to slide the dizzy back in and skip a tooth.
 
I have to replace my o ring this weekend...would this be a good opportunity to advance my timing or is it going to screw me up more?
 
I have to replace my o ring this weekend...would this be a good opportunity to advance my timing or is it going to screw me up more?
Check it, and if you want to try advancing it, no reason not to. Search for "timing" threads to see what people are doing. I set my at about 6*. You'll have the bolt loose anyway...

Timing is a 5 minute job if you have a light. Luckily, with our trucks you can use the cheapie $40 lights at pep boys or napa, don't need the expensive $100+ jobs that are required for electronic ignition.
 
I am getting ready to do this, replace my O-ring on the dizzy.

What has me a bit puzzled on this write-up, when the crank is set at 0, the rotor button is at about 10-11 o'clock. When you align the gear and mark on the dizzy to put back in, the crank is unchanged but the rotor button is in a different position in post number 5? Rotor button more like at 9 o'clock.
 
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When you line the rotor up with the little mark on the distributor (toothed gear at the end of the distributor) as you insert the distributor, it will turn the rotor. If the motor is correctly at TDC, then the rotor should turn back into place just like you took it out.
 
Thanks. It did just that, lined up the gear and the rotor went right to where it should. Just finished and it was a very simple job.

Thanks guys.
 
Gave it a go, peesa cake. Thanks for the guidance.

Didn't have a 30mm short, but a large adjustable worked just fine.

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