"Smurf hand with crispy o-ring"
HOW TO: Replace Distributor O Ring
- Thread starter dixie_cragger
- Start date
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Final alignment... Can't really screw this up if you started with the flywheel on the 0 mark. One more or less notch makes it pretty obvious that you're off. Note (as others said) the pinion gear will twist as you insert the distributor back in place. Start at 9 o'clock (IIRC) and it will end up at the 11 o'clock position you see here.
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that last post was crucial! Thanks for that. If you line everything up like you did, mark the distributor, still, most forget to notice where the rotor is situated so when you put it back in, you are off a tooth or more. Happened to me, twice actually since i felt like this was a piece of cake.
Lets say I have a friend who got a bit aggressive, and removed the entire distributor without aligning to 0, marking the distributor or noting the 10-11 o'clock position.
Going forward the plan is to replace the entire distributor assembly and the belts. How would I, I mean, how would he move forward in doing this?
Yes I'm a noob when it came to this part and just yanked it out.
I guess sometimes the best way to learn is by doing it the hard way -- Any help is most appreciated.
Going forward the plan is to replace the entire distributor assembly and the belts. How would I, I mean, how would he move forward in doing this?
Yes I'm a noob when it came to this part and just yanked it out.
I guess sometimes the best way to learn is by doing it the hard way -- Any help is most appreciated.
This is going to be a little bit of a bear since i had to do this. You need to first look on the crank pulley and there is a little notch which, if at top dead center will be matched up with the zero mark on the block. Here is where it's a little tricky, just becasue they are lined up you could still be off 180 degrees. So it's a little bit of trial and error.
Once you have the crank lined up, the distributor has a mark where the gear is. Line those up and slowly slide it in. Now you have to try to make sure it doesn't jump a tooth while putting it in because that can happen easily. If it doesn't run, then either you are 180 degrees off on the crank (so turn it a full circle until you are lined up again at zero) or you might have jumped a tooth.
Once you have the crank lined up, the distributor has a mark where the gear is. Line those up and slowly slide it in. Now you have to try to make sure it doesn't jump a tooth while putting it in because that can happen easily. If it doesn't run, then either you are 180 degrees off on the crank (so turn it a full circle until you are lined up again at zero) or you might have jumped a tooth.
Thank you Mr. concretejungle 
I appreciate your help on this. What you stated is pretty much what I was thinking too, but I'm glad someone double confirmed.
Question - If the crank is 180 degrees out would that mean cylinder one is at its lowest point? If so, I plan to replace the spark plugs and I was thinking while the plugs are out could I use cylinder one to determine if it is 180 in or out?
I appreciate your help on this. What you stated is pretty much what I was thinking too, but I'm glad someone double confirmed.Question - If the crank is 180 degrees out would that mean cylinder one is at its lowest point? If so, I plan to replace the spark plugs and I was thinking while the plugs are out could I use cylinder one to determine if it is 180 in or out?
Thank you Mr. concretejungle
Question - If the crank is 180 degrees out would that mean cylinder one is at its lowest point? If so, I plan to replace the spark plugs and I was thinking while the plugs are out could I use cylinder one to determine if it is 180 in or out?
Yep, that's correct best my memory serves. If you have the plugs out then you can confirm by sticking something down the spark plug hole to make sure the cylinder is up.
It is not the crank that's 180 out, it's the distributor.
Any time the mark is lined up with zero, the piston will be at the top.
Any time the mark is lined up with zero, the piston will be at the top.
are you 100% sure about that?
Piston directly connected to crank pulley - one full rev of the crank = one full cycle of the piston.
Overland Tailor
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Yep, like the others said, it's connected to the crank.
The crank has a little gear, and the cam has a big gear that's twice the teeth.
There are two ways to recover an unknown crank/cam position vs distributor:
1. Mark at zero, install distributor and try. If it doesn't work, rotate engine until crank mark is at zero but distributor is on the other side (5 o'clock), pull distributor and reinstall so it's on the proper side (11 o'clock). It should start then.
2. Pull the valve cover and watch the valves for #1 cylinder while you rotate through the crank mark at zero. If the valves are moving, you're at the end of the exhaust/beginning of intake, and need to go one more turn to where the valves don't move, i.e., end of compression/beginning of power stroke.
I may not know much about ECU connectors dammit, but I'm pretty sure about this! (inside joke...)
Good to know. I thought it took two cycles to get the piston to be at TDC.
That also explains why i had such a hard time getting the truck to start after the supercharger install. I had to remove the crank pulley, and the distributor. I forgot to set everything at TDC before i pulled it apart and i kept going around and around with the crank.
That also explains why i had such a hard time getting the truck to start after the supercharger install. I had to remove the crank pulley, and the distributor. I forgot to set everything at TDC before i pulled it apart and i kept going around and around with the crank.
Done. Fixed a good sized leak. Awesome.
Great write up. I'm not particularly skilled and it took me 45 minutes and one beer to get it done. I marked the distributor against the engine with a paint pen and marked the rotor position. I didn't have to set the crank pulley to 0 as it went right back into the same position and timing. It went flawlessly. As other posters have said, pay attention to how far the rotor turned as you take the distributor off and you'll have a good idea where it needs to go back in. Careful not to wipe your marks off with degreaser
Bringing up ole shiz... I need a o ring for my distributor. Going to replace a lot of stuff this weekend. i am kind of in a bind. I have been searching threads but cannot pin point a correct part number for a 1997 LX 450. I have found this part #90099-14118 and this one too W0133-1643294.
Can anyone verify which one is the correct one for a 1997 LX450? And also is this something I can pick up at an auto parts store? I need it by the weekend...
Can anyone verify which one is the correct one for a 1997 LX450? And also is this something I can pick up at an auto parts store? I need it by the weekend...
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
The first is a Lexus (toyota) part number, the second is not. The First should be correct. If you are ever in doubt or what to check if your dealership is fleecing you (unless you have a LC local club or TLCA or Mud discount with them, they they are) just google the part number with the word lexus. I will bring you to several online oem parts sources and confirm the part description. I did for this number and the cost should be around $1.70. I would not be surprised if the local dealership is selling it for like $5.
as crazy as this sounds, i picked up an assorted box of nitrile o-rings from harbor freight a year or so ago. When i purchased the new o-ring from Toyota for the distributor, i was a little taken back by how loose it fit. I exchanged it with one of the thicker nitrile o-rings and that was a few years ago. I was worried the OEM one would leak.
