How do I replace outer flange studs on 94 FJZ80 Land Cruiser? Is there a special tool? (7 Viewers)

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Over the years I have had the knuckles rebuilt four times on my 94 80 series Land Cruiser to include the birfields… the last two times I did it myself in the driveway. However, I have never replaced the outer flange bolts (I think that’s what they’re called) and the cone washers and this time I discovered the threads are too destroyed to put the nuts back on. I tried to be careful when whacking the flange in order to pop out the cone washers but they have finally had it. I have purchased replacement cone washers and studs and they will be here in the next couple of days. My questions are: 1) is there a special tool to remove the old studs and install the replacements?; and 2) do I separate the flange hub from the brake rotor to remove the flange studs from the back of the hub? While I wait for advice…here is a personal note: I have had my 80 series since 1996 and I absolutely love it… it is literally a tank and I will keep it until I’m gone. I’m 64 now but rebuilding the knuckles is getting physically harder each time. As I’m wrenching on the various nuts and bolts… my body is telling me this will be the last time! We’ll see in 5 years!
 
If you use the double nut method (see video below): using a ratcheting box wrench help things move faster.

Or, if you want quick and easy you can use a stud remover (socket) and an impact wrench, zzzipp and they're out. If you don't have an impact wrench buy one, a compact impact driver makes life so much easier.

There are many brands so if you already have some cordless tools you can stick with the same system.

FWIW I've used the Milwaukee FUEL SURGE impact driver for everything up to 14mm (and some larger bolts), it's very compact and lightweight:


There are also many brands of stud removers (just don't buy one from chy nuh, IME they fall apart/fracture after light use):

Here's a link to a Koken set (Japan):






To install new studs you can use the double nut method or a stud installation socket or "stud setter" (individually or as a set):
IME this type works much better than trying to use the stud remover sockets mentioned above which tend to leave marks on the studs






You can also upgrade the hub studs to something a bit stronger made by ARP (less likely to strip out):


Here's a couple of sources:


 
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