HOW TO: Replace Distributor O Ring (1 Viewer)

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So, pulled everything apart and cannot for the life of me find my 30mm socket, if I replace the distributor on exactly the same is the 0* necessary?
 
Unless you can start the motor and confirm the timing using a timing light which should be done in any case.
 
Ok I think I screwed up, if I didn't pull the distributor off when both at 0 degrees and the rotor between 10 and 11 am I completely screwed?
 
All is good, just kept going to the 10-11 degree w the rotor when setting 0 degrees until she turned over. Purring smoother than before
 
Dixie,

Thanks again. 2nd time I've had to replace a stupid O ring, and 2nd success. Write up was simple enough for this guy.

Really appreciate your post.
 
8. Remove O ring and replace with new O ring (slightly lubricating the O ring with whatever MOTOR oil you are running)
9. Now align the groove of the distributor housing with the protrusion on the driven gear (I forgot to take a pic of this step so i took a pic of the FSM)
10. Now slowly put everything back together in the reverse order above!
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Thank you for putting this up. I am new to cruisers.
 
Did this today. Worked great. Reassembled everything and she fired right up. Sadly I noticed some coolant leaking after I started it. Looks like the headgasket is leaking next to the egr pipe.
 
Is the o ring the source of this leak?
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Is the o ring the source of this leak?
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No. That's the internal O-Ring that's starting to leak. These are not replaceable at this time. Typically have to replace the distributor for that one. Your leak doesn't look to be bad at all. Wipe it out every so often and you're good.
 
Got tired of replacing mine every few years....so I modified it to take dual O-rings.

Time will tell if that will stop the leak there or just cause me to replace two O-rings. :frown:

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Dizzy Install5.jpg
 
No. That's the internal O-Ring that's starting to leak. These are not replaceable at this time. Typically have to replace the distributor for that one. Your leak doesn't look to be bad at all. Wipe it out every so often and you're good.
Crap. Well I just replaced my o-ring which Im sure was leaking but I guess the internal ring is leaking too...There were even little pieces of green plastic broken off something in the bottom there.... :oops:

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I think pretty much everything that can leak on my 260k mile former desert-life cruiser, is leaking.

So there's no way to replace the internal o ring? It looks like mine is leaking pretty bad, right?
 
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On my o ring replacement, I just pulled the cap and noticed my rotor seemed to be pointing dead at 10:30. I noted the orientation of the distributor in relation to the adjustment bolt. So I pulled out the distributor noticing the rotor turn counter clockwise to about 9:00 as I did. Replaced o ring and put it back in the same way it came out, fired it up and it runs fine. I didn't mark anything, I guess I got lucky!
 
Crap. Well I just replaced my o-ring which Im sure was leaking but I guess the internal ring is leaking too...There were even little pieces of green plastic broken off something in the bottom there.... :oops:

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I think pretty much everything that can leak on my 260k mile former desert-life cruiser, is leaking.

So there's no way to replace the internal o ring? It looks like mine is leaking pretty bad, right?
I would clean the interior and exterior of that distributor with electronics cleaner (NOT Brakleen!). It's possible that some of the oil you see in there is from the vent hole on the back side of the distributor body as shown in your second pic.
 
Thanks for putting all of this in one place. Good information here.


Please forgive me if this is an ignorant question, as I haven't pulled the distributor on my cruiser yet (but have done many old chevys).

Why are the marks necessary? At first I thought it was to assure the dizzy went back in exactly as it came out (due to the rotation as the gears mesh), but AFAIK the housing doesn't rotate, just the shaft. Am I missing something?
Great writeup!
The housing does in fact rotate, and is what sets the 3 degree advance, there is a bolt just behind/to the right of the distributor when looking at it. I used a small file to make a mark where it is mounted now, and took a bunch of photos.
I did this yesterday myself, couple of extra notes
1/Removed the Battery and battery box to give me better access to the Distributor especially when pulling it out. 5 minutes and 6 bolts.
2/Did not bother to put the engine at TDC, just took a bunch of photos with the distributor cap off, to determine the position of the rotor in relation to the body of the Distributor.
Took me a couple of shots to get it back in the right gear slot, as they are not straight cut teeth, so the rotor pivots as you slide it in.
if the distributor feels stuck and won't go in, turn the rotor a fraction, so the teeth line up.

Took the time while I was there to clean up all the junk from the weep holes - Mr Toyota put them there for a reason.

I used my BlueDriver ODBII to check the timing, it was spot on.
 
Crap. Well I just replaced my o-ring which Im sure was leaking but I guess the internal ring is leaking too...There were even little pieces of green plastic broken off something in the bottom there.... :oops:

View attachment 2603859


View attachment 2603865

I think pretty much everything that can leak on my 260k mile former desert-life cruiser, is leaking.

So there's no way to replace the internal o ring? It looks like mine is leaking pretty bad, right?

That sucks. My leak got worse. Correct that you can't replace the internal ring. I bought a new distributor.
 
That sucks. My leak got worse. Correct that you can't replace the internal ring. I bought a new distributor.
Did you buy a new OEM Toyota distributor or aftermarket?
 

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