HOW TO: Replace Distributor O Ring (1 Viewer)

[dixie_cragger]

This may be a pretty simple job for most of you mud folks but since I was doing it, I thought I'd take the time to do a write up with pics that might help some other 1/2 - 1 wrenchers like me. Guys that have done this, if there is something you see and should be added or should have been done differently, post up so i can correct it! This probably took me less than an hour including the time to take pics for the writeup!

If you have some minor oil leaking between your distributor and the valve cover, the distributor O ring is likely your culprit. Here are some pics of what a leaky distributor O ring would look like on your truck.

 

[dixie_cragger]

1. Disconnect Negative terminal of battery
2. Set the crankshaft pulley to O (see pic). To do this, simply use a 30mm socket (IIRC) to rotate the crankshaft pulley.

 

[dixie_cragger]

3. Remove the distributor cap (you can leave the spark plug wires connected) but you do have to remove the distributor connector on top.
4. Note the orientation of the rotor. The rotor should be pointing up at spark plug terminal #1 (between 10 and 11 o clock)
5. If the rotor rip is not between 10/11 o clock, spin the crankshaft pulley another 360 degrees (pointing the crankshaft pulley back to 0)

 

[dixie_cragger]

5. I then marked the position of the distributor and the valve cover (see the blue marks in the pic). I did those so i know which way to seat the distributor upon reassembly.
6. Now remove the 12mm bolt that attaches the distributor (looking from the DS, this bolt is at the 3 o clock position). (see pic in post #3 for reference but the bolt cant be seen in the pic).
7. With the bolt removed, you can remove the distributor. (Note: the rotor tip will move counter clockwise slightly when removing the distributor.)

 

[dixie_cragger]

8. Remove O ring and replace with new O ring (slightly lubricating the O ring with whatever MOTOR oil you are running)
9. Now align the groove of the distributor housing with the protrusion on the driven gear (I forgot to take a pic of this step so i took a pic of the FSM)
10. Now slowly put everything back together in the reverse order above!

 

[NLXTACY]

Nice! Now is a great time to add in a distributor breather!!

 

[Proven]

Nice! Now is a great time to add in a distributor breather!!

A what?

 

[NLXTACY]

Do it up!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/12110-distributer-breather.html

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Nice! Now is a great time to add in a distributor breather!!

or just seal it over with silicone (alot easier)

 

[little_joe]

Very nice writeup, thanks for taking the time to document and capture so many photos! This will be very helpful to many folks, myself included.

 

[dixie_cragger]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I kinda wish i knew about the breather mod before tackling this but maybe someday, i'll get around to adding it. Can anybody chime in why this breather mod is so beneficial? I can't imagine water getting that high up in the engine bay. This info could help other folks prepare to do this mod while replacing the O ring

 

[wxm]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I kinda wish i knew about the breather mod before tackling this but maybe someday, i'll get around to adding it. Can anybody chime in why this breather mod is so beneficial? I can't imagine water getting that high up in the engine bay. This info could help other folks prepare to do this mod while replacing the O ring

X2, I am wondering about this too. Thanks for the great writeup, -DC-. It will definitely be a wonderful reference when my time comes... (hopefully not any time soon.).

Suggest we pin down this one in the FAQ.

 

[hobbes]

For tool planning, a non-deep well 30mm is required to move the crankshaft to 0 degrees, IIRC.

 

[sdnative]

5. I then marked the position of the distributor and the valve cover (see the blue marks in the pic). I did those so i know which way to seat the distributor upon reassembly.

Thanks for putting all of this in one place. Good information here.


Please forgive me if this is an ignorant question, as I haven't pulled the distributor on my cruiser yet (but have done many old chevys).

Why are the marks necessary? At first I thought it was to assure the dizzy went back in exactly as it came out (due to the rotation as the gears mesh), but AFAIK the housing doesn't rotate, just the shaft. Am I missing something?

 

[Brian894X4]

Awesome write up...great pictures! I don't know if mine is leaking or not, but I kind of hope so, so I can tackle it and get it over with now and maybe even look into the beather mod.

I think one of the benefits of sealing the distributor and running a breather line is for when the engine is washed. You don't risk getting water in there. Also, while the water level may not be that high, moisture can still have an affect on the electricals inside.

Over the years, I've gotten water in many a distributor and it's not fun.

 

[Beowulf]

or just seal it over with silicone (alot easier)

Do not seal your distributor. If Toyota wanted to seal it they wouldn't have put in breather holes. It NEEDS to breath. Extending those breather holes by putting in hoses and routing them to another location is something to consider if fording streams is in your plans.

-B-

 

[wakesetter]

I have had a new distrib o ring stuck to the side of my refridgerator for about 3 months. Maybe this will get me to go out and actually install it.

Thanks for the write up.

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Do not seal your distributor. If Toyota wanted to seal it they wouldn't have put in breather holes. It NEEDS to breath. Extending those breather holes by putting in hoses and routing them to another location is something to consider if fording streams is in your plans.

-B-

(to each there own) I sealed my distributor 5 years ago and have had no issues whatsoever. The climate my truck has been in since sealing has been across the board from Arizona, Colorado, to Washington and back several times. Also have done many many water crossings. Ive had no issues

 

[wxm]

For tool planning, a non-deep well 30mm is required to move the crankshaft to 0 degrees, IIRC.

I don't have 30mm socket, will 30mm box wrench do?

 

[dixie_cragger]

SDNative-
No particular reason why i marked the housing, just did it just so i know which way to put the housing back on.

WXM- I would assume a 30mm wrench will do. It'll be a little more cumbersome since it's not ratcheting