How to remove brake light switch? (1 Viewer)

[mrjordann]

Hi, a while back, my brake lights went out. Dont know why or how, but they did. Obviously this is a safety issue and a legal issue and it needs to be addressed before it's driven.

There seems to be a brown switch at the top of my brake pedal to detect when my brake it depressed. Is there any way I can remove this? I would like to get in there and see which wires are hot and which are not.

Thanks. -Jordan

(73 FJ40)

 

[JackA]

Loosen the jam nut and unscrew the switch. Pretty simple

 

[pb4ugo]

Do your brake lights work? That switch is the brake light switch, which wouldnt be the reason why your brakes failed. You should find a wiring diagram, it would ID the hot wire you're looking for. Maybe try a fsm or Coolerman's Web site.

 

[mrjordann]

Do your brake lights work? That switch is the brake light switch, which wouldnt be the reason why your brakes failed. You should find a wiring diagram, it would ID the hot wire you're looking for. Maybe try a fsm or Coolerman's Web site.

Oops. Guess I had a brain fart. I meant to say my brake LIGHTS went out, not my brakes! Hope that clears things up. Sorry.

 

[workingdog]

On that push button switch there are nuts on both sides of the metal plate it's mounted on. Loosen either one, it's hard to get to, and then you can spin the one on the end off and push the switch back out of the whole. They do go back, usually easy to replace.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

u can begin at step 1 :

- carefully remove your cluster meter via the two #3 phillips head screws , tilt it downward as u pull it out , then unhook your speed o cable

your brake light peddle switch will be right there easy to access


- good time to look for any PO wiring issues too .............

 

[GA Architect]

Just to add a precursor to the procedure above, step 0.1 - any time you are going to mess with the gauge cluster, it is highly advisable to disconnect the battery beforehand.

$0.02 worth

 

[4x4veteran]

Just to add a precursor to the procedure above, step 0.1 - any time you are going to mess with the gauge cluster, it is highly advisable to disconnect the battery beforehand.

$0.02 worth

If you don't unhook the batt you will realize why you should have the minute the amp gauge posts hit the dash metal as you remove the cluster.
Learned that about 35 years ago the first time I pulled gauge cluster.

 

[MoCoNative]

I like a good spark when I pull the cluster, keeps you on your toes. If you have a really dirty cruiser you can even get a little fire going to keep you warm while you wrestle the switch out. Hardest part for me pulling the cluster is getting the speedo cable un hooked. Mine is broke because of it, atleast the keeper is cracked.

Switch can be a real bear to remove, mine at least does not want to turn cleanly in the hole in the pedal bracket as you remove it. I have found that if the internal contacts stick or mess up in them it usually fries the brake light fuse too, worth checking out. The switch itself will show continuity when you press the pedal down, and disconnect when pedal is up. Can't remember which two wires to check, they just feed power straight through, always hot, switch brakes the curcuit. Sometimes a failed switch can stick in the on position and your brake lights won't turn off.

Be wary of aftermarket switches too, had those fail quickly for some reason.

 

[Martyt]

I replaced mine without pulling the cluster— not a hard job.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Not sure if brake switch and park switch are similarly constructed. Park swich is simple to fix.

Metal contact ring fell off.

Glued it back on

 

[OBX J80]

Easy job. Hardest part is reinstalling the outer lock nut. Had a tough time getting it on but entire job took less than 20 minutes. Fixed my cruise control issue