How to properly brake on mountain passes (1 Viewer)

[Jorgito]

Hello,

having 1996 FZJ80 with automatic transmission I struggled when descending mountain passes. Do you guys have any tricks how to properly brake when going down very steep mountain pass ? Put in low and first ?

I was almost without breaks on this pass:


Any other options then just stop and wait to cool the brakes ?

 

[Jorgito]

I know that there is option to buy kit from wholesale transmission to lock the torque convertor but that seems very expensive.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Put it in 1, if it's not slow enough then slow it with the brakes until stopped or nearly stopped and put it in 4 low and CDL that should get you way down there it's what I do coming down steep mountain roads otherwise my brakes fade into non-existence. May be wise to upgrade your tranny cooler if its a fairly regular thing...wouldn't hurt to upgrade regardless. Anyway, if you can't get to a stop to shift the t-case try getting down to around 10mph ,shift out of hi..pause.. and shift into low, I've done it a number of times. I have it down to an near science of shifting while rolling. And my transfer fluid shows no signs of excessive wearing or anything. Anyway, that's my $.02

 

[nigelsiam]

Maybe a rear parachute? But seriously I was thinking the same thing as I am planning some trips like Black Bear Pass, etc. The brakes on these heavy trucks don't seem to be on par with the weight especially going downhill.

 

[bajaphile]

When I'm driving my 80 I am usually more concerned with the uphill stuff. I'm surprised that putting the shifter to 1 or 2 is still too fast?

 

[danakittilsen]

Swap a h151f or h150f in and roll down against your engine compression. I basically do all my braking with my engine.
Plus enjoy the occupation of getting to shift and select your gears all the time!

 

[Jorgito]

It was damn scary when I got almost no brakes on last section and I was stopping every corner for couple minutes. Thanks for suggestions. I had it in high and first. Next time I will put it on low.

 

[SammyT96LX450]

Hello,

having 1996 FZJ80 with automatic transmission I struggled when descending mountain passes. Do you guys have any tricks how to properly brake when going down very steep mountain pass ? Put in low and first ?

I was almost without breaks on this pass:


Any other options then just stop and wait to cool the brakes ?

I hope Europe is treating you well buddy. I just did pikes peak and 1st gear and small amount of braking and fully loaded rig was no big deal. Anything steeper I would go 4lo

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

When I'm driving my 80 I am usually more concerned with the uphill stuff. I'm surprised that putting the shifter to 1 or 2 is still too fast?

Usually just shifting to 1 is plenty, but some stuff needs lower speed yet.

 

[MDarius]

For simple mechanical upgrades: 100 series pads, slotted rotors, extra transmission cooler, then everything already said. Engage the CDL (install the button), I think that will give you better holding in low gear. There's nothing wrong with going to 4 Low.

 

[Jorgito]

What about this :
West Coast Cruisers

Manual Control Lock-Up Unit Toyota with A442F, A343F, A750F, and soon for the B02A(6 speed auto) transmissions. Designed to manually control the Lock-Up convertor in All forward gears and reverse(Require Extreme Valve Body for 1st and Reverse Lock-Up). Eliminates all convertor slippage and convertor runaway on steep downhill descents allowing full 100% engine braking. These are must for Off-road Enthusiasts as well is those who Tow.

$210.00 USD (In Stock)


Have anybody installed that ?

 

[Jorgito]

Nice video about the locking torque converter kit , again Australian's know how to deal with it.

 

[NLXTACY]

I can tell you now, if you know you are doing decents like Black Bear, then remove all of the moisture from your brake lines. This means bleeding out all of the air and all of the old brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so it just loves to absorb water and that is good...and bad. But fluids need to be changed because as it absorbs moisture it drops its boiling point, and it's not insignificant.

 

[nigelsiam]

I can tell you now, if you know you are doing like Black Bear, then remove all of the moisture from your brake lines. This means bleeding out all of the air and all of the old brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so it just loves to absorb water and that is good...and bad. But fluids need to be changed because as it absorbs moisture it drops its boiling point, and it's not insignificant.

Thanks. This service is on the list for sure. I usually flush the braking system every year. Now just have to rebuild the e-brake system as everything is frozen/corroded up

 

[NLXTACY]

Thanks. This service is on the list for sure. I usually flush the braking system every year. Now just have to rebuild the e-brake system as everything is frozen/corroded up

yeah that part sucks. Be sure to do the cable check. My cable is not too far stretched but its getting close after 360k

 

[scottryana]

Black bear is less of an issue than long highway grades because the speeds are low and you're in low range already.

A huge component of this is brake fluid. Do a complete system flush with a high quality brake fluid. Many will argue the ABS units are going bad on these trucks and I am not arguing. I would like to pull mine and see how it impacts braking. I will likely pull the ABS and load sensing valve on my black truck and replace them with a manual proportioning valve. There will be a lot of insurance naysayers but if the ABS is not functioning it's worse in my opinion than not having one. Maybe a rebuild program needs to be setup for them because I know they are either incredibly expensive or unavailable.

So get the best fluid you can, flushed as well as you can, and use your auto trans as best as you can. Good luck!!

 

[surfpig]

I am adamantly opposed to braking in most cases.



I use the shifter a lot. Let your engine do most of the braking. I'm driving Sierra passes almost weekly now, in snowy/icy conditions. If you're on your brakes, you're out of control in a lot of cases. And I cringe at all the idiots out there...

Also agree with everyone here about flushing the fluid system. Mine needed it a LOT.

This is also the first automatic transmission vehicle I've ever owned, though.

 

[Pin_Head]

Definitely drop it down in 2 and then 1 before you need to brake. It sucks losing your brakes on a down grade and I ain't doin it no mo.

 

[nigelsiam]

Black bear is less of an issue than long highway grades because the speeds are low and you're in low range already.

A huge component of this is brake fluid. Do a complete system flush with a high quality brake fluid. Many will argue the ABS units are going bad on these trucks and I am not arguing. I would like to pull mine and see how it impacts braking. I will likely pull the ABS and load sensing valve on my black truck and replace them with a manual proportioning valve. There will be a lot of insurance naysayers but if the ABS is not functioning it's worse in my opinion than not having one. Maybe a rebuild program needs to be setup for them because I know they are either incredibly expensive or unavailable.

So get the best fluid you can, flushed as well as you can, and use your auto trans as best as you can. Good luck!!

The 'best fluid'? What do you recommend?

 

[SmokingRocks]

I know that there is option to buy kit from wholesale transmission to lock the torque convertor but that seems very expensive.

There is a write up on this forum about how to add a switch for this function. Its a simple signal to the transmission, tap the right wire in the wiring harness and voila.

If anything I'll drop down to 3rd via OD off. Sometime I'll drop to 2nd. But my rig is so big and has so much drive train loss that it usually polices itself pretty well.