How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

[super90]

I hate to be a party pooper but its only a matter of time before its out.


The LandCruiserPhil spindle bushing greasing method...

Pros
·10 min. a side, 5 min. is you have an assistant
· Know you are in fact getting grease to where you want it
· Know exactly how much grease is being applied
· No need for special tool - Sorry vender's
· No mess
· Ability to see condition of the shaft and bushing
· A 1 job even a caveman can do it

Conshttps://forum.ih8mud.com/images/smilies/cheers.gif
Flame on

Procedure

Remove wheel cap
Remove dust cap
Remove snap ring
Have your assistant push in axle stub or use a ghetto system like pictured
Squirt grease around the bushing
Reverse steps

Picture #1 - Tools required - very little disassembly required

Picture #2 - Apply grease to brass bushing - Bushing is factory designed to direct grease to needle bearing

Picture #3 - Ghetto design of holding axle stub in - An assistant will eliminate the need for this tool

While I am ordering Slee's tool as I just feel better about seeing that grease come squirting through the spindle, I did just use the above method to make sure we had some grease in there. One modification to the procedure was I used a brass drift to drive the axle stub into the drive plate enough to gain the clearance on the back side to get the mini grease gun in to access the brass bushing. I then put a small bolt in the axle stub and levered it back out with a big screw driver. No assistant or "ghetto design" needed.

I have to say, this is pretty clever and certainly gets a lot done with little effort. Be careful not to damage the seals on the back side.

Looking forward to using the Slee tool upon arrival.

YMMV

 

[Supra88]

After reading the entire thread I have just one question; Which way is best to grease the bearing?

I'm getting ready to repack the bearings, so I picked up Slee's spindle bearing tool to hit the spindle bearings while I'm in there. I've done some searching and consulted the FSM but still am not certain of the appropriate grease to use for the spindle bearings? Is it NLGI #1? I'm using Royal Purple synthetic NLGI #2 for the bearings and assume this isn't appropriate for a needle bearing.

Thanks!

 

[Supra88]

Do I hear a 'yes' for NLGI #1 on the spindle bearings?

 

[uHu]

FSM says nlgi#1 synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease.

 

[Nottajeep]

OK, here it is, complete with video

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/video/spindle_tool.mpg

Slee - Spindle Grease Tool

Getting ready to do this job and can not get the video to load here nor your site?
Just me or does it play for others?

 

[Sandroad]

It's just you; played fine for me. However, don't worry about it. The video is very short and just shows the shaft being pushed a half inch out but the grease going in. The still photos are everything you need. (on the Slee site for the tool).

 

[hankinid]

FSM says nlgi#1 synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease.

My local Amsoil guy stocks NLGI #1 with moly added.

Steve

 

[uHu]

Getting ready to do this job and can not get the video to load here nor your site?
Just me or does it play for others?

Really no need. It's very simple once you get started, and see how it works. Just remove the C-clip, push the shaft in, apply grease (look at post 50) and push the shaft back towards the outside of the hub. When the big oil-seal behind there contacts, there is no other way for the grease to go other than into the spindle bearing.
Also, when you push the shaft in, you will see marks of the roller bearing in the grease on the shaft, - IF the bearing is still there, and there is a bit of grease on the shaft.

 

[Drogon]

Sorry this might be a little off topic.
I had my inner cv joints rebooted about a few months ago. A few days after I picked up the 100 I noticeced my drivers side outer boot was pulled away from the hub exposing the spindle bearing.
I took the 100 back to the mechanic, and he advised the clip broke. So he re clipped the axle so the spindle bearing was not exposed.

Sonce then I have noticed a grinding or wooshing sound at lower speeds and rpms. Could this have caused this noise and maybe the spindle bearing needs grease?

 

[Nottajeep]

Probably overkill for this application...
I ordered a tube of this mobil grease (CM-W) for the inner bearing grease.

It's created for extreme mining applications with water washout potential.
Plus, it's orange and will be easy to track when pushing the old grease out.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobilgreaseCMSeries.aspx

 

[Sandroad]

Drogan, If the c-clip "broke" and your axle started coming out of the hub with an exposed spindle bearing, there certainly could be noises as a result. It's unlikely the clip broke, unless the mechanic reused an old one. Old ones are hard to get back on without bending them and that makes them not fit the groove correctly. So old ones might pop off. Or he just forgot to put one on. Either way, new ones don't just break and you're lucky things didn't really fall apart on you. If the spindle bearing was exposed while driving, it may be contaminated with water/dirt/etc. I'd suggest a complete cleaning and re-greasing of the spindle bearing and a double check of the c-clip on the other wheel to make sure it's new and installed correctly.

 

[Drogon]

Drogan, If the c-clip "broke" and your axle started coming out of the hub with an exposed spindle bearing, there certainly could be noises as a result. It's unlikely the clip broke, unless the mechanic reused an old one. Old ones are hard to get back on without bending them and that makes them not fit the groove correctly. So old ones might pop off. Or he just forgot to put one on. Either way, new ones don't just break and you're lucky things didn't really fall apart on you. If the spindle bearing was exposed while driving, it may be contaminated with water/dirt/etc. I'd suggest a complete cleaning and re-greasing of the spindle bearing and a double check of the c-clip on the other wheel to make sure it's new and installed correctly.

Thanks for the input and advise! I will have to try and tackle this with the long weekend coming up.

 

[Nottajeep]

For me, I had a slight rotational squeak, even when braking. No grinding or feedback, so I ruled out bearings.

I did the LCP method with success.

Took me a while to recreate the tool phil used, but it worked out with a 4"x4" and a lag bolt. Reassembly took me forever trying to get the drive shaft out far enough for the snap ring. Maybe I used too much grease Lucky I found a bolt that fit the end of the driveshaft. Helped me pull it out far enough to get the snap ring on.

No more squeak, so thanks LCP, and thanks Mud!

I am having a little trouble getting the shaft back out 1/4" to put the snap ring on... think I got a little too generous with the grease gun.
So you can pull the shaft with a lag bolt? is the outside of the shaft threaded?
I have been tugging on it with channel locks and a rag, etc...

 

[PADDO]

I am having a little trouble getting the shaft back out 1/4" to put the snap ring on... think I got a little too generous with the grease gun.
So you can pull the shaft with a lag bolt? is the outside of the shaft threaded?

The inside of the shaft is drilled and tapped, 8x1.25mm iirc, you can find suitable bolts under the hood to borrow and utilize. Last time I did this I grabbed a 50mm long 8x1.25 to use with a simple lever cross bar to pull the shaft home, slow steady force will squish the grease where it needs to go and get the shaft out.

 

[Nottajeep]

The inside of the shaft is drilled and tapped, 8x1.25mm iirc, you can find suitable bolts under the hood to borrow and utilize. Last time I did this I grabbed a 50mm long 8x1.25 to use with a simple lever cross bar to pull the shaft home, slow steady force will squish the grease where it needs to go and get the shaft out.

Thanks!
I found a bolt, dug out some extra greese and used the lever handle from a jack handle that has a square hole in the middle.
That allowed me to get both arms pulling simultaneously. Now these arms are jelly and the snap ring is in place.

 

[bctlex]

Thanks!
I found a bolt, dug out some extra greese and used the lever handle from a jack handle that has a square hole in the middle.
That allowed me to get both arms pulling simultaneously. Now these arms are jelly and the snap ring is in place.

Ok so it seems that the shaft needs a good amount of force to pull it back out, but how much force does it need to push it in? I got the c-clip out, but having trouble pushing the shaft in. Any tips/advice how to push the shaft in? I am not sure if I should just lean in and force it as hard as I can (dont want to break anything here).

Chris

 

[2001LC]

If wheel (LCA) is dropped to far, from vehicle being on jack stands, it makes pushing the hub in difficult. Put your floor jack under the LCA near ball joint raising it, and play with height from ground. Taking pressure off axle, then compress it.

If your using the Slee - Spindle Grease Tool you just need it in far enough to get tool thread about two to three full turns to start, so you don't strip or cross thread. Then tighten down until it stops. This pushes on axle for you. You'll need to remove locking nut & ring.

With the greasing from back side using a needle greaser tool method, go back to first page. You'll see a slick way to of using clamps to push in axle, notice wheel/tire on ground.

Two very import issue:
First; Make sure to reset preload on wheel bearings properly. I use FSM method of breakaway preload with fish scale 9.5 to 15 ft lb.
Second; Snap ring gets stretched when removed and is not a reusable part. I reuse all the time, but I make sure to bend/squeeze tight. That way it fits snug again, when you put back on axle. You must also check snap ring end play gap. Too much end play and it will be damaged snap ring/axle end as you drive.
Wheel Bearing; FSM Torque to Light or just Right.

I assume your also repacking wheel bearings:
Front Bearing Replacement
Note: races do not need removing if just packing. If removing races, you must replace races and wheel bearings (become not reusable parts).

 

[bctlex]

With the greasing from back side using a needle greaser tool method, go back to first page. You'll see a slick way to of using clamps to push in axle, notice wheel/tire on ground.

Two very import issue:
First; Make sure to reset preload on wheel bearings properly. I use FSM method of breakaway preload with fish scale 9.5 to 15 ft lb.
Second; Snap ring gets stretched when removed and is not a reusable part. I reuse all the time, but I make sure to bend/squeeze tight. That way it fits snug again, when you put back on axle. You must also check snap ring end play gap. Too much end play and it will be damaged snap ring/axle end as you drive.
Wheel Bearing; FSM Torque to Light or just Right.

I assume your also repacking wheel bearings:
Front Bearing Replacement
Note: races do not need removing if just packing. If removing races, you must replace races and wheel bearings (become not reusable parts).

I am trying to grease from back side - I should have been more specific. I had a couple hour free yesterday, and thought why not I just try this now, look simple enough. I am going to study the picture in the first page a bit closer - I am not entirely clear how that works.

I am not repacking wheel bearing yet - baby steps here...but I am planning to do this in near future when the weather is a bit warmer.

Thanks for the advice.
Chris

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I am trying to grease from back side - I should have been more specific. I had a couple hour free yesterday, and thought why not I just try this now, look simple enough. I am going to study the picture in the first page a bit closer - I am not entirely clear how that works.

I am not repacking wheel bearing yet - baby steps here...but I am planning to do this in near future when the weather is a bit warmer.

Thanks for the advice.
Chris

If you are not using the slee tool the axle stub (with the c clip removed ) or using the simple method as described in post #10 it should push in easy. Jacking the vehicle may make pushing the axle stub in more difficult.

 

[uHu]

... Jacking the vehicle may make pushing the axle stub in more difficult.

Right. Also turn the steering all the way to one side, and get en angle on the CV. Easy to push in enough to put the nozzle of the grease gun in between at the back of the hub. Then when you pull the axle back out, the grease will be squeezed through the spindle bearing because it has no other way to go.
Do observe the seals, they do wear out.