How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

[uHu]

Phil's method will not work, as long as Toyota's design holds up. Between the grease in the photo and the needle bearing is both an oil seal and a tight brass bushing.

Can't see how Slee's method works either, unless there is a needle which squirts the grease onto the bearing. I mean: If you press grease in from the flange side, how will it be pushed in to the bearing when there is an oil seal at the back, preventing air or old grease from eascaping? Or does the grease just re-distribute itself during driving?

Edit (mistaken):
The oil seal is actually on the thicker part of the CV assembly; so that when the CV is pushed away from the spindle, the seal is not in the way for greasing.
See more below.

 

[spressomon]

Phil's method will not work, as long as Toyota's design holds up. Between the grease in the photo and the needle bearing is both an oil seal and a tight brass bushing.

Can't see how Slee's method works either, unless there is a needle which squirts the grease onto the bearing. I mean: If you press grease in from the flange side, how will it be pushed in to the bearing when there is an oil seal at the back, preventing air or old grease from eascaping? Or does the grease just re-distribute itself during driving?

Slee's tool will work perfectly. And no reason Phil's trick wouldn't work either. No seal directly apart of the needle bearing...

Sure and ideally I'd prefer to remove the arm and clean the bearing thoroughly before re-greasing. But there's a much better chance for more frequent PM the easier and more convenient it is...at least for me

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Slee's tool will work perfectly. And no reason Phil's trick wouldn't work either. No seal directly apart of the needle bearing...

Sure and ideally I'd prefer to remove the arm and clean the bearing thoroughly before re-greasing. But there's a much better chance for more frequent PM the easier and more convenient it is...at least for me

Thank you

The brass bushing w/ grooves is designed to direct grease into the spindle getting lube to the needle bearing. Toyota uses the same design on 40,60, and 80 the only difference is the 100 series uses a inner needle bearing, replacement 80 spindle now use the same set up as the 100 series.


Your picture show it

 

[uHu]

See correction in my post above. Sorry Phil.
So, Phil's method works. I can see that the grease would be pressed in past the bushing when the spindle and CV are being pushed together again. When the oil seal comes in contact with it's mating surface, there will be a pressure building up, which can escape through the spindle. That would lube the needles.
Caveman will try method with

What about Slee's tool? Does it also push the CV/shaft in? How does the grease go through the spindle and in to the rollers/needles?

 

[SupraTuRD]

Spresso- would you happen to have a pic of the other (spindle) side of the knuckle? I'm trying to understand how the slee tool works.

 

[sleeoffroad]

There is a gap between the axle shaft and the inside wall of the spindle. The grease travels along there till it gets to the bushing.

 

[spressomon]

Spresso- would you happen to have a pic of the other (spindle) side of the knuckle? I'm trying to understand how the slee tool works.

I don't but here's a pic Rohitash posted a few weeks ago.

 

[SupraTuRD]

Thanks for the responses. Does the lock nut and bearing preload nut have to be removed as well in order to use the greasing tool?

 

[spressomon]

Yes. Slee's tool, as well as Phil's trick, however eliminates the need to break the knuckle loose from the ball joints as well as caliper and tie rod removal to gain access to this bearing.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks for the responses. Does the lock nut and bearing preload nut have to be removed as well in order to use the greasing tool?

Yes. Slee's tool, as well as Phil's trick, however eliminates the need to break the knuckle loose from the ball joints as well as caliper and tie rod removal to gain access to this bearing.

True with the Slee tool

Not true with the LCP method

Not even the drive plate is removed with my method. So obviously the lock nut or the bearing preload is NOT disturbed.

With the LCP method the only mechanical parts that need removed is the dust cap and axle snap ring nothing else.

 

[spressomon]

True with the Slee tool

Not true with the LCP method

Not even the drive plate is removed with my method. So obviously the lock nut or the bearing preload is NOT disturbed.

With the LCP method the only mechanical parts that need removed is the dust cap and axle snap ring nothing else.

You're right...I forgot about just removing the snap ring and sliding the knuckle assembly outward.

 

[SupraTuRD]

Does the slee tool force grease into the wheel bearings as well? How much should be pumped in? Until it oozes past the inner seal?

 

[spressomon]

Does the slee tool force grease into the wheel bearings as well? How much should be pumped in? Until it oozes past the inner seal?

No. The hub bearings are in front/outside of the needle bearing. I assume you pump enough grease until you see it purge from the other side (CV boot side) of the needle bearing. If you didn't want to pull the knuckle out so you can see the grease purge into the bronze bushing area I don't see a problem with pumping until you just see the grease purge at the inner seal @ the outer CV tulip. But you really need to wipe any excess grease from the seal area so it doesn't provide a migration path for water and/or dirt contaminants into the needle bearing.

Christo?

 

[e9999]

Does the slee tool force grease into the wheel bearings as well? How much should be pumped in? Until it oozes past the inner seal?

I would imagine the wheel bearings are on the outside of the spindle whereas the grease travels on the inside.

 

[bigdaddy]

I'm glad I didn't see this last night, or in January for that matter. I just put all my shiet back together, Still had a little grease but nothing like Phil's photo. Wondering if I should take it all back apart or if I'll be OK for some time? How will it "let me know" when it needs to be done. I'm right at 100K, would I be OK going to 120K?

For me, I had a slight rotational squeak, even when braking. No grinding or feedback, so I ruled out bearings.

I did the LCP method with success.

Took me a while to recreate the tool phil used, but it worked out with a 4"x4" and a lag bolt. Reassembly took me forever trying to get the drive shaft out far enough for the snap ring. Maybe I used too much grease Lucky I found a bolt that fit the end of the driveshaft. Helped me pull it out far enough to get the snap ring on.

No more squeak, so thanks LCP, and thanks Mud!

 

[uHu]

...How will it "let me know" when it needs to be done....?

When I bought my 2004 two years ago, it came with a disintegrated needle bearing. It didn't tell me anything (that I noticed) until the brass bushing as well was so worn that I got vibration from the CV-shaft (drive-shaft according to FSM) After ruling out wheels and UJ, I started checking the spindle bearings, and it was too late: The shaft was already worn where the needle bearing used to be. Had to change the shaft and the bearing, together with the brass bushing and oil seal. The needle bearing took three weeks to get from Nihon.

So, vibration that you can't find the origin of could be your spindle bearing(s).

 

[Tinkerer]

When I bought my 2004 two years ago, it came with a disintegrated needle bearing. It didn't tell me anything (that I noticed) until the brass bushing as well was so worn that I got vibration from the CV-shaft (drive-shaft according to FSM) After ruling out wheels and UJ, I started checking the spindle bearings, and it was too late: The shaft was already worn where the needle bearing used to be. Had to change the shaft and the bearing, together with the brass bushing and oil seal. The needle bearing took three weeks to get from Nihon.

So, vibration that you can't find the origin of could be your spindle bearing(s).

uHu:

How did you confirm the wear problem? Was there noticeable play in the shaft while still assembled to bushing/bearing/spindle? Or did you have to disassemble everything and inspect the internals?

 

[Mxndrnks]

I don't but here's a pic Rohitash posted a few weeks ago.

So, If I understand the Slee tool correctly, you remove the big nut around the drive shaft in the picture above and screw the Slee tool on? I ordered one of these from Slee and havn't figured it out yet.

 

[spressomon]

There shouldn't be a reason to remove the bearing adjuster/lock nuts. The grease flows between the outer wall of the CV shaft, shown in your photo, and the inner wall of the steering knuckle spindle.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

There shouldn't be a reason to remove the bearing adjuster/lock nuts. The grease flows between the outer wall of the CV shaft, shown in your photo, and the inner wall of the steering knuckle spindle.

The tool will not fit without removal. With the LCP method you have been done.

See post #10