How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

[apdxyk]

Mobilux EP 1 Grease, no Moly (not particularly a high temp grease)

Mobilgrease XHP 221 or even better Mobilith SHC 221 are higher on the totem pole.

Chevron Delo EP 1 is also very good. 3751 from Lubrication Engineers is bee knees..

 

[Ironman2011]

So, the FSM reads "FSM says nlgi#1 synthetic oil and lithium soap base chassis grease" for the needle bearing and brass bearing/bushing area.
Does this mean that you put the oil on one and the grease on the other or mix them or ???

I found Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease at a local store and the Mobil 1 website reads:

High performance automotive grease

Product Description
Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease is an NLGI No 2 high-performance automotive grease which combines a synthetic base fluid with a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart optimum extreme-pressure properties and excellent resistance to water wash, and outstanding protection against rust and corrosion. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease has excellent structural stability. The synthetic base oil used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives it excellent performance properties at both high and low temperatures. High structural shear stability coupled with a high performance base oil make Mobil 1 Synthetic an outstanding automotive grease.

...
So, to me this sound about right but I'm not sure about using #2 instead of #1. Has anybody used #2 for the spindle needle bearing, brass bearing/bushing, and the gap between the OD of the CV driveshaft and the ID of the steering knuckle's spindle?

Thank you.

 

[2001LC]

NLGI #1 is a very thin grease and hard to find. I sourced it through Amsoil. Most just use M1 NGLI #2 as it's readily available.

 

[Ironman2011]

Thank you 2001LC.

 

[Rolocado]

How does one check if a spindle bearing is worn out or not? And if it is, what can happen if not replaced? The grease in there looks a little dirty red, dunno if that's caused by moisture? I'm also wondering upon reassembly if I can just lather everything (knuckle and CV) with a simple Lucas Red n tacky grease? I have everything apart right now replacing a drive shaft bearing so I would love to make life for my future self easier if possible.

The different kinds of grease and lube that are put into these machines confuse me to this day between F.I.P.G, NGLI 1 &2, lithium vs moly, so if anyone could briefly help a brother out with some grease clarity.

 

[Rolocado]

Also, I have slight bearing play inboard and outboard if I drag my finger parallel to the spindles, don't know if that's just how they are or if grease will tighten them up

 

[abuck99]

^The red & tacky will (edit) not work, but if the anti seize component in it has Moly you may want to use something else like Mobil1 synthetic. FSM calls for NLGI 1 on those spindle bearings but good luck trying to find it. NLGI 2 will work. For high speed bearings, stay away from greases that contain Moly.

 

[2001LC]

That Red "N" Tacky states "EP" Extreme pressure additive - Wikipedia which is not suitable for high speed use, in application such as wheel bearings. Moly fortified grease retains heat so is not suitable for high speed application.

I always clean the needle bearings, brass bushing and knuckle really good. I do this after removing old seal and before installing new seal. I'll spend 1/3 of my time cleaning & inspecting ever "first time" service. Once clean I inspect visually under 10X power magnifying glass or by zooming in on a picture. From what I see in your pictures they're good, but hard to tell with old grease on it.

Your play is ok! What your looking for is damage, pitting or scoring on needle bearing.

Most just use NGLI #2 synthedtic, as has been stated by @abuck99 any many others in this thread. Use a grease that states WHEEL BEARING as they are designed for high speed.

These days I just use Mobil One for all lubes! KISS
First solvent clean then wire brush, emery cloth & file.

Second Solvent, HP water & HP Air cleaning after wire brush, emery cloth & and file.

 

[Rolocado]

I'd love to take my knuckle off and clean it but for the life of me cannot get it disconnected from the lower control arm and I don't want to destroy the boot

 

[abuck99]

I'd love to take my knuckle off and clean it but for the life of me cannot get it disconnected from the lower control arm and I don't want to destroy the boot

If you have a jack under the LCA, try letting the LCA hang fully extended with about an inch of slack in your tiedown or what ever limit strap you have in place and give the knuckle a few good whacks with a bfh. Ball joint separator not required.

 

[2001LC]

Tools: Pitman arm puller made by Evertough #67025 (Oreilly's). Works for all three ball joints, best for upper ball joint. Must pull off Wheel hub Dust cover from knuckle to use 67025 on steering & lower ball joints. Otherwise use Evertough 67021 5 ton puller on lower ball joint & remove bolts from knuckle holding steering TRE. Once puller on tight hit with 5 pound sledge hammer. RedRob (mud) uses Pitman Arm Puller (KD Tools 2289) on lower without pulling dust cover.

 

[uHu]

If you have a jack under the LCA, try letting the LCA hang fully extended with about an inch of slack in your tiedown or what ever limit strap you have in place and give the knuckle a few good whacks with a bfh. Ball joint separator not required.

As he says, no puller needed. The end of the knuckle-arm has a flat-faced protrusion on either side of the ball joint bolt. That's where the bfh is applied. Normally 1-2 small whacks is all you need.

 

[2001LC]

The upper has a flat spot, the lower does not. I've never had much luck with bfh, but have seen more than my share damaged from bfh. The damage is usually not a big deal, but some are bent/bulge to the point the boot doesn't ride flat. So I get out my bfh and flatten, then file smooth/flat.

 

[Rolocado]

So this will work? The homie at Advanced Auto said he'd never heard of a moly-less grease before. And to be fair, none of the labels say if they have moly in them or not, so go figure. Just makes me wonder how many folks have the wrong grease in the wrong places...

 

[abuck99]

Tube in a grease gun works better, but that tub will be great for doing your wheel bearings, and you can slather that into the spindle bearings since you have it all apart. Next time, use a grease gun and Slee spindle bearing grease tool. Makes the process easier, done from the end of the axle. There is another low budget process called the "push" method but the Slee tool makes it one step easier.

Slee Spindle Bushing Tool

 

[chudly]

I ended up buying this tub also but in my tiredness I forgot to cover the new axle when putting it back in. I only put grease on the inside of the hub flange.

can I just go in from the back side and put it in with a small brush or something since I don't have a grease gun and just that tub?

 

[uHu]

Yes. Push the shaft inwards so that the CV body separates from the knuckle/spindle and you see the shaft behind there. Put grease around the shaft, and when you push the shaft back in place, the oil-seal will contact first and create a "pump" that will force the grease into the spindle bearing.
This will depend on how soft the grease is, and how much air you trap inside that cavity, so push the shaft back again to see that you get grease marks from the rollers/pins of the bearing on the shaft.

 

[NicB]

Hey guys, I know this thread is a bit dated, but curious to know how often folks are lubricating these axle bushings. I haven’t read anything in the service interval manual about it either for my year (2002). Am I missing something obvious? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[uHu]

Interval depends on use. If wading a lot, I would lube before any highway driving. I.e. once for each trip. If driving only roads, no wading and no salt, and oil seals in good shape, you could go 30 k miles.

 

[apdxyk]

Every 30k per manual. I use Slee tool and LE 3751 grease. I buy it from Lubrication Engineers site. Incomparable product.