Checked all the fuses, they are good
How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway.
- Thread starter dbbowen
- Start date
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- #402
Thats odd, the lighting comes out of the rheostat for all of those bulbs.
This is kinda the only thing in the FSM i can find on testing the rheostat
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- #403
Hi All, just an update to this thread.
I am on my second very expensive aluminum radiator on my ls swap at this point. My first one leaked from the cores "due to electrolysis" even though the voltage was below the range of electrolysis. Had to buy a second one. Ive been searching for older style OEM type brass/copper radiators and @Snicklephritz87 found it.
You got to use a 4L Diesel oem replacement radiator from a HJ60/HJ61. Its got the water inlet and outlet on the passenger side. You can route your steam port to the upper neck hose, and make your own fan shroud based on using your factory shroud as a template. Easy peasy.
The brass/copper rad that i pulled from my 60 series was over 30 years old. My aluminum "LS Swap radiator" lasted less than 3 years. When this current one i have blows, and that is a definite WHEN, not IF... Im going to replace it with one of these HJ 60 radiators. Aluminum radiators are basically disposable if you actually drive your vehicle. If its a weekend car, aluminum is fine but no way ill ever put another Aluminum rad in
You are going to have to order from Australia or Europe to get it, but 100% worth it imo.
It will fit your stock radiator mounts and will go in like a stock radiator without any modifications. freaking. Awesome
I am on my second very expensive aluminum radiator on my ls swap at this point. My first one leaked from the cores "due to electrolysis" even though the voltage was below the range of electrolysis. Had to buy a second one. Ive been searching for older style OEM type brass/copper radiators and @Snicklephritz87 found it.
You got to use a 4L Diesel oem replacement radiator from a HJ60/HJ61. Its got the water inlet and outlet on the passenger side. You can route your steam port to the upper neck hose, and make your own fan shroud based on using your factory shroud as a template. Easy peasy.
The brass/copper rad that i pulled from my 60 series was over 30 years old. My aluminum "LS Swap radiator" lasted less than 3 years. When this current one i have blows, and that is a definite WHEN, not IF... Im going to replace it with one of these HJ 60 radiators. Aluminum radiators are basically disposable if you actually drive your vehicle. If its a weekend car, aluminum is fine but no way ill ever put another Aluminum rad in
You are going to have to order from Australia or Europe to get it, but 100% worth it imo.
It will fit your stock radiator mounts and will go in like a stock radiator without any modifications. freaking. Awesome
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- #404
Forgot to add this. I ran green coolant for 2 years and switched to Toyota red for about a year. Some observations I’ve had. 50/50 distilled water and concentrate coolant.
Green coolant kept my water temp lower than red coolant. Not by much but enough to keep summer idle under 200* with AC on. Around 195 if I remember right. Toyota red summer idle with ac on sits around 200-205.
Toyota red coolant with redline water wetter got me down to 193-196 summer idle with AC on.
Radiator shop suggested the green coolant helped my radiator corrode so I switched back to red.
Just some observations. YMMV
Green coolant kept my water temp lower than red coolant. Not by much but enough to keep summer idle under 200* with AC on. Around 195 if I remember right. Toyota red summer idle with ac on sits around 200-205.
Toyota red coolant with redline water wetter got me down to 193-196 summer idle with AC on.
Radiator shop suggested the green coolant helped my radiator corrode so I switched back to red.
Just some observations. YMMV
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
Timely post. Now that I know my radiator isn't actually an issue, I'm now interested in the potential reliability of your proposed setup. So yeah, I'm going to need you to go ahead and guinea pig that action for me and all the other LS guys!
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- #406
Hah right? I THINK i have found some OEM toyota ones still avafilable. I just dont have the money to pick one up right now.
For my application ill just need to plumb a steam port into the upper rad neck hose, and figure out where im going to put the temp sensor for my Efans. Probably in the upper neck as well or maybe i can get a local rad shop to braze a bung into one of the tanks.
With the aluminum rads im always watching my water temps like a hawk. Would be nice to not worry about my radiator corroding out from the inside again,.
Looked through the AC section but didn’t see. How much r134 did you put in? I got two cans but not sure how much to add
When i charged the A/C on my stock 60 it took a little over 2 cans. I think 2 is a fine starting point.
Mine took a little under 2 cans with stock everything (except the compressor, obviously. And my lines are pretty short compared to what I have seen other folks do). Low side pressure was good, so I called it. Been working fine since.
What’s your metric for enough? Just won’t take more or a particular pressure?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Should be about the same as factory 62.
I went off of this pressure chart. My ambient temp when I was charging was 85-90, so once I had a low/high pressure close to this spec, with 45 degree drop between ambient and vent temp I called it good.
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- #413
I used this exact same chart haha
Well I filled it with about 2 
, low was around 55 and high was 200 ish.
It’s 95 out and it blows 48 out of the vents, good enough for an old truck!
, low was around 55 and high was 200 ish.It’s 95 out and it blows 48 out of the vents, good enough for an old truck!
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Told ya lol not saying that the chart isn't right just more of a guide. I've been doing home and car hvac for 20 years off and on. You can make it as complicated as it can get. Trouble shooting is problems can get more in depth. Me I pressure test with nitrogen and a spray bottle with a little dawn and watch for bubbles I don't add die or sealant crap into the system. Pull vacuum then add factory charge back I've seen lower numbers than what you have that being said all the ac components were brand new.Well I filled it with about 2
It’s 95 out and it blows 48 out of the vents, good enough for an old truck!
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- #416
All my stuff is brand new. I’ve never really got a true temp reading but I’m all ears for lower temps. Did you basically do it just like a fj62?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Replaced evaporator coil condenser coil pressure switch the valve in the evaporator coil air box new accumulator all new duct seals basically rebuilt the whole system mechanical fan with fan shroud I'd have to go back in my ig to see the temperature I had but it was cold fogging front and rear door windows. Oh also the ac Amp mod
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
You would be surprised how much the fresh air inlet let's into the evaporator coil. If you have never cleaned out your cowl I suggest do it now and also treat / seam seal and paint everything you can get to in there.
Agreed, so much garbage in that inlet and in the blower/coil.
I wonder if a cabin air filter could be retrofitted for any benefit
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
@BurntToast anything is possible where would it go and how would or how easily to access it is the main problem
