How to identify Trans/T-Case & HELP. (1 Viewer)

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Mar 28, 2007
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Location
Congress, AZ
Hey guys, I have a 78 FJ40 that has a V-8 conversion done by the p.o. The nose cone is snapped off of the t-case, front drive shaft is missing and there is no yoke/flange on the front axle. The p.o. gave me several items including a trans and t-case that he said was out of a 60 and supposedly worked fine. The question is how do i identify what trans/transfer combo i currently have in the truck and will a t-case from a 60 bolt up? What are your thoughts on replacing the 40 trans and t-case with the 60 trans and t-case.

I have another t-case housing, nose cone & t-case rebuild kit that will supposedly work for the broken one in the 40 but i'm not sure i could rebuild the broken case correctly.

THANKS ahead of time for all your help. I have learned more about these 40's than i thought i ever would here on mud. Hopefully i can return the favor some day. :beer:

T-CASE CARNAGE
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Post up some pics and the folks here will ID your stuff.
 
What do you guys think could have happened to snap the nose cone off. Do you think the motor and trans/t-case were set back to far with out making the front drive shaft longer? Maybe the front shaft slipped out being too short and caught the road?
 
Hey guys, I have a 78 FJ40 that has a V-8 conversion done by the p.o. The nose cone is snapped off of the t-case, front drive shaft is missing and there is no yoke/flange on the front axle. The p.o. gave me several items including a trans and t-case that he said was out of a 60 and supposedly worked fine. The question is how do i identify what trans/transfer combo i currently have in the truck and will a t-case from a 60 bolt up? What are your thoughts on replacing the 40 trans and t-case with the 60 trans and t-case.

I have another t-case housing, nose cone & t-case rebuild kit that will supposedly work for the broken one in the 40 but i'm not sure i could rebuild the broken case correctly.

THANKS ahead of time for all your help. I have learned more about these 40's than i thought i ever would here on mud. Hopefully i can return the favor some day. :beer:

What do you guys think could have happened to snap the nose cone off. Do you think the motor and trans/t-case were set back to far with out making the front drive shaft longer? Maybe the front shaft slipped out being too short and caught the road?





Please post up some pictures of your broken junk and other components so that we can see what you are working with.


As far as why the front nose cone broke off the transfer case, there are a multitude of possibilities. Being able to look at your truck could only help with the speculation.
 
more details and pics of the truck - what suspension? sua? soa? how much lift? tyre size? front locker?

Give us pics and info and we can help - without we're just going to guess (or not!)

pics of the front driveshaft would help if the po has it somewhere?

is the front diff working?
 
P.o. Gave me a spare empty t-case and nose cone. The empty t-case has a large gouge inside that appears to have cracked all the way through. Is this junk??
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P.o. Gave me a trans and t-case that he said was out of a fj60. Can you tell from these pics if that is true? How good is this trans and case? How hard would this be to bolt into my 40?
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The case supposedly out of a 60 seems to lock up fine in 4hi and 4lo and it spins freely in nuetral
 
The case supposedly out of a 60 seems to lock up fine in 4hi and 4lo and it spins freely in nuetral

Note that it does not have an e-brake assembly and the one in your rig probably does. (?) You can get one for about $500. The drive shaft lengths may not be the same, but this may not be an issue for you. The split case out of the '60 is stronger.

Sell that combo for some $, kick in some more $$$ and get an Orion.

The first one probably broke because your PO was a leadfoot.
 
The rear shaft has been shortened (looks like a drunk blind illegal did it) i'm thinking maybe he didn't lengthen the front. ??
 
My 60 trans has a 28Y stamped on the side. How does my case above differ from this one below that Specter is selling for $1500? Specter calls theirs a "compound low".
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Assuming your transmission and transfer case assembly is from the USA, then the first gear ratio in it would be 3.5:1, and the transmission is known as an H42.


The SOR component you have pictured here that they are calling the ‘compound low’ is a an H41, non-USA transmission assembly, which will have a 4.9:1 first gear ratio.



The transfer case housing pictured in post #8 is not something I would invest any time or money in, but that is just me.
 
POSER- Thanks. How hard is it going to be to stick this 60 transmission and t-case in my 40? Or should i just stick this 60 case on my 40 trans?
 
As has been pointed out, you will not have a parking brake on the split case, as you do on the one piece unit. Also, I cannot see the top of the transmission, so I do not know if that top cover will come up through the same hole in the floor. The 60 series transmission top covers had the cane hole located further rearward, compared to a 40 series, iirc. But again, since I cannot see the top cover in those pictures, I cannot say if that split case was in a 40 or a 60.


The split transfer case will not work behind the current four speed transmission in your Land Cruiser, because the transmission output shafts are not the same. Your current four speed has the one piece case and uses a 16 spline input gear, and when Toyota went to the split case design in 08/80 and later, the output shaft was changed to a 19 spline configuration.



It has been stated out here that the drive shaft lengths do not change between the one piece and split transmission and transfer case assemblies, but I would not be surprised if you had to modify your drive shafts to make this assembly work in your truck.


The split case is definitely a stronger design.


:beer:
 
Thanks again POSER. I have a pic of the top of the case (below). My trans tunnel is already butchered by the po (old holes are covered with roofing sheet metal!!!) so i'm not worried about cutting and repairing it properly. The front shaft did not come with the 40 (i'm guessing that was the cause of the nose cone breakage) and the rear shaft needs to be shortened correctly so i'm not worried about having to do that. I'm think my best bet is to bolt this 60 trans and t-case up to my 350 get a front shaft lengthened rear shaft shortened correctly and move the t-case mount. Maybe i'll use a lin loc for a parking brake??
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Considering all the mud and rust on the front output bearing and roller bearing that is completely plugged I would say this T-case is toast. I could be wrong. But I'm thinking when you open it up you will find teeth missing.

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The spare shellwhile not perfect is fixable. I'm running one that was cracked like that. From what I can tell a pretty common failure. A good welder should be able to weld it back better than new. But on a v-8 I wouldn't run it.

The split case is gonna be your best option. But expect to do some fabing. I'm sure the pro's can tell you better than I.

Of course you could just sell the split case conbo and probably be able to buy a 4spd t-case and maybe enough money for a rebuild kit and have something you can bolt right up with little to no fab work. I would reccomend a t-case saver though. If you plan on trying to destroy the vehicle like the PO I'd spend the money and get the split case installed.
 
Good Question TROLLHOLE. I was wondering why there was only maybe 1/4" of spline on the t-case side?? Doesn't look like enough spline length to engage the nose cone? Is the 60 trans a 4 or 5 speed?
 

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