That’s exactly what Jerry told me this morning. Thanks bama
How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series. (2 Viewers)
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Daddy Rabbit
Sold 1999 LC 2005 LC Bone stock
Nice looking rig!
Hey nice glad to see someone do this! I was thinking to redo my retrofit soon and use those as my high beams. Good tech here... maybe I missed it but what projectors did you use?
Pretty sure they’re Mini D2s 4.0. I bought them second hand.
LED set up are these. High Beam: Profile Hi-Lens LED
Del
I appreciate the write-up on this. There were a few gaps in the instructions and definitely some areas I could have used more information for my conversion. Want to make sure I pass that information. My first headlamp following this DIY to a T took me over 3 hours. The second headlamp I did in under an hour.
1. TO SEPARATE THE GLASS FROM THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY:
The current instructions don't have enough heat for long enough, this is why so many are saying they are cracking/chipping glass and having issues. PREHEAT the oven to 240 (do not put the headlamp in while it is heating as the heating element is on full blast). Put the headlamp in for 18-20 minutes. I put it on top of some cardboard to shield it in case the heat element kicked on.
Slightly pry the case apart with a screw driver to get a small gap and use a C-Clip spreader to open the case up. Put bits of the cardboard from a box in the headlamp as you work your way around the glass. It comes apart like butter if you do 240* for 20 min.
2. HOW TO DEAL WITH THE EXISTING GLUE
Throw the headlamp assembly back in (sans the glass you just removed) for 6 more minutes. Use a screwdriver and smooth/ flatten it out into the channel. Put the glass in the fridge for 10 minutes and then you can easily scrape the glue off with a razor.
3. ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS:
Everyone hates adjusting the headlights, but this tool (if you have one) makes it a piece of cake.
It's just a right-angle drill attachment. I put it on my 1/4" impact and put in a 1/4" impact to 1/4" socket attachment that looks like this:
Now adjusting your headlamps is a breeze.
1. TO SEPARATE THE GLASS FROM THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY:
The current instructions don't have enough heat for long enough, this is why so many are saying they are cracking/chipping glass and having issues. PREHEAT the oven to 240 (do not put the headlamp in while it is heating as the heating element is on full blast). Put the headlamp in for 18-20 minutes. I put it on top of some cardboard to shield it in case the heat element kicked on.
Slightly pry the case apart with a screw driver to get a small gap and use a C-Clip spreader to open the case up. Put bits of the cardboard from a box in the headlamp as you work your way around the glass. It comes apart like butter if you do 240* for 20 min.
2. HOW TO DEAL WITH THE EXISTING GLUE
Throw the headlamp assembly back in (sans the glass you just removed) for 6 more minutes. Use a screwdriver and smooth/ flatten it out into the channel. Put the glass in the fridge for 10 minutes and then you can easily scrape the glue off with a razor.
3. ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS:
Everyone hates adjusting the headlights, but this tool (if you have one) makes it a piece of cake.
It's just a right-angle drill attachment. I put it on my 1/4" impact and put in a 1/4" impact to 1/4" socket attachment that looks like this:
Now adjusting your headlamps is a breeze.
quick tip
when baking, put the headlight on some wood blocks, this will prevent oven grill from damaging the plastic
when baking, put the headlight on some wood blocks, this will prevent oven grill from damaging the plastic
I did 270 for 7 minutes and it worked just fine
Cardboard or wood is great advice. First headlight I had some deformed where i put plastic directly on grill
Cardboard or wood is great advice. First headlight I had some deformed where i put plastic directly on grill
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've some spare LC glass headlight & parts:
Their in various condition. Some I've separated plastic from glass others are complete. Some in very good condition. Some may have a plastic fastening point busted, needing replacement plastic wielded on.
Anyone needing parts or ones to retrofit, PM me with email address.
Their in various condition. Some I've separated plastic from glass others are complete. Some in very good condition. Some may have a plastic fastening point busted, needing replacement plastic wielded on.
Anyone needing parts or ones to retrofit, PM me with email address.
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I had a rock impact on the glass lens. Unbelievable how tough the Toyota glass on these headlights are. It knocked a chip out the back of the glass but the entire front pane stayed intact. The chip was still in the housing, so I was able to get it out when I baked and split the headlights and fix it.
I am a fly tier (flyfishing) and had clear UV epoxy that it used for making certain bugs. I worked flawlessly to patch that chip, almost to the point it looks just like the glass.
So, again, just sharing the knowledge that if you get a rock chip or even a "blow through" like I had, this will work very well to repair the headlight. You do not need a UV flashlight, you can just set the headlight out in the sun for a few minutes for it to cure. It cures crystal clear and stays that way.
I am a fly tier (flyfishing) and had clear UV epoxy that it used for making certain bugs. I worked flawlessly to patch that chip, almost to the point it looks just like the glass.
So, again, just sharing the knowledge that if you get a rock chip or even a "blow through" like I had, this will work very well to repair the headlight. You do not need a UV flashlight, you can just set the headlight out in the sun for a few minutes for it to cure. It cures crystal clear and stays that way.
What is everyone doing for mounting locations for the ballasts and amps? If you have pictures, would you mind posting your solution?
I am working on making some aluminum brackets but am not pleased with anything I've made so far.
I am working on making some aluminum brackets but am not pleased with anything I've made so far.
You are all going to shake your head in disapproval, but zip ties make mounting the ballasts really easy/convenient. I initially mounted the ballasts to existing available mounting points, but due to ongoing tinkering with my front end I have had to remove them several times. Got tired of dealing with the screws and now just have them zipped. In the words of Bud Light ads circa 2012 "it's only weird if it doesn't work."
I use heavy duty double sided Velcro to hold the ballast on the driver's fender wall.
No issues with the ballasts warming up and the adhesive failing?
None. I bought the strong velcro in the hardware aisle form home depot.
VELCRO 4 in. x 2 in. Industrial Strength Extreme Strip, Titanium 91373 - The Home Depot
VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Extreme fasteners feature all-weather, UV-resistant adhesive for rough surfaces including concrete and certain types of brick. Theses fasteners have superior holding power.
www.homedepot.com
I ran an extension for the passenger side and mounted it to an existing hole.
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this is why I love Mud. Its the small obvious things that make all the difference and keep me humble. I cut my zip ties and added heavy duty velcro over the weekend, thanks for the idea!None. I bought the strong velcro in the hardware aisle form home depot.
Drivers side fender. Mounted the wiring harness there as well.VELCRO 4 in. x 2 in. Industrial Strength Extreme Strip, Titanium 91373 - The Home Depot
VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Extreme fasteners feature all-weather, UV-resistant adhesive for rough surfaces including concrete and certain types of brick. Theses fasteners have superior holding power.www.homedepot.com
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I'd really like to do this upgrade, but I'm inexperienced. I've read through the thread and one thing I noticed is that the original instructions don't include any guidance on the wiring that needs to happen upstream of the lights themselves, so am I understanding correctly that this isn't a plug and play? What needs to happen in order to be wired up correctly for this conversion?
Also, any reputable vendors providing this conversion as a service (local to Denver metro a plus)?
Also, any reputable vendors providing this conversion as a service (local to Denver metro a plus)?
I just had BlackFlameCustoms.com do mine. He is in Fort Collins. Tell him Adam with the Black Cruiser sent you.
LIFESAVER!
Would you mind continuing the conversation over PM? I'd love more info on your experience.
