How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series. (3 Viewers)
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Looks great!!
Looks like 4300-4500k. They most usable light and looks factory.
They are actually 5500k if I remember correctly, the pictures throw things off a bit. It's got a bit of a blue tint but nothing over-the-top.
As I already purchased 3" projectors to fit in my 98' rig (due to higher quality light pattern of the wider lens)
...find out the hard way it didn't clear the glass of the headlight by 5-6mm.
As it was a little pushed back in the headlight, my plan then it was to install 3" projectors in the bottom section of the headlight to replace them with the High beam lamp and then switch between the high beam bulb connection to the upper place. A little bit of trimming here and there it fits the headlight just fine.
Just finished one side, and now I'm thinking if it may be worth to try and fit 2,5" projectors to the upper original place as described in the first posts some sort of bixenon.
As it was a little pushed back in the headlight, my plan then it was to install 3" projectors in the bottom section of the headlight to replace them with the High beam lamp and then switch between the high beam bulb connection to the upper place. A little bit of trimming here and there it fits the headlight just fine.
Just finished one side, and now I'm thinking if it may be worth to try and fit 2,5" projectors to the upper original place as described in the first posts some sort of bixenon.
And the trimming patterns on the lower part of the projectors 2-3 mm(with black paint) to align with the lower part of the headlight
On the back of the headlight (with red paint) to fit the projector
H1 bulb fitted
trimming on the down side of the projector ornament (with black paint)
On the back of the headlight (with red paint) to fit the projector
trimming on the down side of the projector ornament (with black paint)
Bringing this back to give Danny @ rihids due credit.
I had a couple LEDs on the pass. side DRL strip go out (only in signal mode) and Danny fit me into his already crazy schedule ASAP to replace the part which was still under warranty. Going above and beyond to make sure customers are happy is getting all too rare these days and I'm happy to support someone who makes the extra effort.
I had a couple LEDs on the pass. side DRL strip go out (only in signal mode) and Danny fit me into his already crazy schedule ASAP to replace the part which was still under warranty. Going above and beyond to make sure customers are happy is getting all too rare these days and I'm happy to support someone who makes the extra effort.
After lots of consideration, and the fact that I did mine at home with no warranty, I'm really glad I didn't put in LED strips. They sure look cool though!!!
I can understand where you're coming from! My decision was based mainly on the fact that DRLs are a "must have" in my book (big proponent of being visible at all times) and I didn't like the look of halo rings around the projectors.
That being said, if this becomes an issue again in 2 years, I may consider the halos as they have proven to be more reliable from what I understand.
Speaking of DRLs... I have been using my stock high's at stock half power with no issues... I tested the high beam solenoid on the projector while building and it didn't trigger until almost 12v. Since DRLs were also a big deal for me, I called TRS to confirm that there should be no issue feeding the solenoid a tiny bit of power while my DRLs are on. No issues here ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ They even said they'd warranty if the solenoids failed (I don't see that happening at this point, been running like that since I finished the build).
I'm thinking about doing this retrofit on my 100. I've done this same set up on about 6 different cars over the years, but never on something to take offroad.
When mounting as seen in the early posts of this setup (how I've always done it), has anyone had any issues with the projector moving around after offroading? I am just worried about the single point of contact around the screw part of the rear projector base. I've used JB weld in the past, just to cement the projector and the headlight housing together. Is this necessary for the LC100 as well?
Does anyone have photos of shrouds besides the gattling gun? I've used it on previous projects and I am thinking a different look could be cool.
When mounting as seen in the early posts of this setup (how I've always done it), has anyone had any issues with the projector moving around after offroading? I am just worried about the single point of contact around the screw part of the rear projector base. I've used JB weld in the past, just to cement the projector and the headlight housing together. Is this necessary for the LC100 as well?
Does anyone have photos of shrouds besides the gattling gun? I've used it on previous projects and I am thinking a different look could be cool.
Which shroud is this? Do you have any photos of the completed project?
Sorry that project was abandoned, to be honest I didn't like how the projector ornament fits/sits inside the lamp...
My plan for the moment is to replace both of the headlights(and all of the bits including grills...)with the newer '02 onward model and fit LED's.
I can still post pictures of the lamp but unfortunately (as the headlights are laying in the garage), it will show no progress.
My plan for the moment is to replace both of the headlights(and all of the bits including grills...)with the newer '02 onward model and fit LED's.
I can still post pictures of the lamp but unfortunately (as the headlights are laying in the garage), it will show no progress.
Thanks for the reply! I also am not loving the way the shrouds fit in the early LC100 headlights. Maybe I'll get creative and contribute some new ideas, who knows!
@yotasavg - Any instructions on how to run your high beams at roughly 50% power to drive an LED DRL replacement (like spaber05's headlights)? When I initially tried wiring it up, only one side would light up. I assume it's because there isn't enough voltage to drive both LEDs.
I'm running factory halogen high beams with the Morimoto Bi-LEDs in the low beam position. Right now, I've got the LED DRLs wired to turn on when the lights come on and the halogen DRL is always on.
If anyone else has ideas, I'm willing to listen!
I'm running factory halogen high beams with the Morimoto Bi-LEDs in the low beam position. Right now, I've got the LED DRLs wired to turn on when the lights come on and the halogen DRL is always on.
If anyone else has ideas, I'm willing to listen!
@jon9151 there's info here about the latter lc and lx drl wiring. frogers Build - 2006 LX470
and here, LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET
different set up but same issue, trying to make the high beam two wire 9005 plugs work with a so called BI LED in the high beam slot. like this
and here, LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET
different set up but same issue, trying to make the high beam two wire 9005 plugs work with a so called BI LED in the high beam slot. like this
Illumination shot low beams.
Almost dialed in.
Almost dialed in.
The two bends are supposed to be at the same height. raise drivers or lower passengers. best to do the measurements 25' from a flat wall.
