How much Horsepower Can a Fj60 Handle? (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

don't know about "horse"-power...more like burro-power. i was thinking just the opposite - just how little HP could you deliver.... has anyone tried a small 4-cylinder engine from a smaller toyota vehicle with success? and, if you do go big...what type of gearing (as mentioned prior), any changes?

you would gain nothing by installing a 4 cylinder over the OEM I-6. In fact in my view you would loose...both in HP and torque and fuel milage would be crappy too, because you would have to dog the engine to get it to move the truck. If you think the I-6 lacks power then.....look out when you go with a 4cyl. Just not worth screwing with. The only reasonable V-6 in my view would be the 4.3 GM V-6, other than that I would go the V-8 route or keep what you have now (I-6). Be cool to try a toyota 5.7 V-8 or other Toyota engine, but it will be really expensive to do so.

The 4cylinder would be a lot of work.....with no gain. Not enough power to make the truck usable....poor fuel milage etc. Unless you are talking about a cummins 4cyl diesel and then that's a little $$ compared to common GM V-8 swaps.

 

[philos1]

There are several V8 swap threads here on Mud. Waggoner (Gary) is definitely the man for big output V8s in 60s. For all out driveability, the Vortec is the way to go. Plug it in and the computer does all the thinking/tuning for you.

Sounds like you need to evaluate what you REALLY want out of it and go from there. start by reading as many of the build threads as you can stomach.

HTH,
cheers.

 

[Kurtis]

After reading some more since I have to deal with emissions it seems like the 5.3 is probably the way to go. Those are some pretty impressive fuel economy stats as well. I was a little dissapointed in the fact that the while the later 5.3 increases horspower by a substantial amount from the earlier 5.7s but torque barely changes. I guess Ill keep my eye out for a good 5.3 and start from their. Just a question but if I pick up a transmission with it does it matter if its 4wd or 2wd? i can't seem to see how it would affect this application and this might be a dumb question but I was curious. I think I'm going to order the book from downey on monday and start accumilating parts. Heres a a Pic before the tint. Ill try to get some of after the window tint. I'm half tempted to just sell it and buy another with a straight body and a blown engine start with that.

 

[Totheredline]

On the street in 2wd, what’s the weak point in the drivetrain? I’d think the transfer case would go first. I just picked up an LQ4 6.0 and I’m going to overbuild the hell out of the bottom end and valvetrain but run stock heads and a trailblazer SS intake manifold. Not sure what route I’m going with the transmission. I’d like overdrive but I may just go with a built TH350 for reliability

 

[tmxmotorsports]

No way i would put a th350 behind an ls your going backwards

 

[NCFJ]

I agree with TMXmotorsports on the 350, take a look at a stage III Monster 4L65E. The 6.2L LS3 C&C comes with a 4L65E.

 

[Mace]

axles will fail before the tcase..

 

[NCFJ]

This truck, LS3 C&C, 4L65E stock transfer case.
Owner reported 6.26 sec 0-60 MPH
Not something I recommend doing.

 

[NCFJ]

axles will fail before the tcase..

Agreed

 

[cruiserpilot]

The axles and R&P are comparable to Ford 9”. So no worries.
Buy some new birfields now, save you the trouble looking later. I ran a balanced and
matched 351W comfortably 400 HP, in my FJ40 for a few years on 38.5 TSL/SX’s.
Front locker and heavy foot will increase your maintenance costs.

 

[Mace]

I snapped both rear axle shafts in low range driving up Cadillac Hill without giving it full throttle with a gently warmed over SBF 5.0 and 35's.

Ring gear is similar in size to a 9" but it dies not have the pinion support a 9" does.

So yes, if you use the truck you can break the axles with any extra HP.

 

[Forerunner]

So yes, if you use the truck you can break the axles with any extra HP.

so would swapping to 80 axles help in this case?

 

[Seth S]

This was what came to mind when I read the title to this thread:

 

[Elbert]

I know this is an old thread... but not really sure why you would want to chase HP. A stock V8 of your choice would move the FJ60 more than adequate and the drive-line is fine for that in my view. Understand if big tires are in play and gear reductions are in play the issues with applied torque are multiplied. How you approach your power/hp is up to you..but you are talking about a "brick" of a truck that can weigh a good bit and handles like a brick, so hauling $%# on the pavement is a poor idea. Then you get into the problem of applied torque off-road and all the nuances of big tires, gearing, axles, under-drives, gear ratios, transfer-case setups...etc. IN summary things will and can break. But I think your average V-8 Swap would serve you well, and you could make minor adjustments/modifications along the way. OH...and driving style is a big factor on breakage off-road...and of course the all time favorite of $hit happens on stuff too.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, 30 year old trucks ...things are breaking, at least on ours. Mike

 

[NCFJ]

Why does anyone chase HP in any vehicle? Because they can! I am in the stock motor camp or perhaps built for a little better low end torque. The thing I see over and over is people build vehicles with big HP and do not build the rest of the drive train to handle it all. Forget about brakes to stop it. It's not hard to drive through your brakes with 400 + HP. We will not even go into the fact that not everyone knows how to handle that kind of HP.

Want to have some fun, ask some big HP type what wheel comes off the ground first out of the hole when they nail it. They have a 50-50 shot. Then ask them why and how it effects steering. The net is full of videos of yahoos with high HP cars at Cars and Coffee event wrapping them around poles and into fences etc.

 

[NCFJ]

OH...and driving style is a big factor on breakage off-road.

Agreed, guilty of this myself. We often see people build trucks to say level 7 on a 1-10 scale. Only to put it to level 8-10 tasks and trying to overcome with the skinny pedal. We all know the guy with the "built" truck that spends far more time on the side of the trail under repair than on the trail. It's all good in the end, because we're all just doing our own thing and having fun, even the Jeep guys

 

[Totheredline]

On the street in 2wd, what’s the weak point in the drivetrain? I’d think the transfer case would go first. I just picked up an LQ4 6.0 and I’m going to overbuild the hell out of the bottom end and valvetrain but run stock heads and a trailblazer SS intake manifold. Not sure what route I’m going with the transmission. I’d like overdrive but I may just go with a built TH350 for reliability

So I should probably be on the LSX forums for this and not landcruiser forums because y’all will flame me for my sac religious actions.
Things got very out of hand fairly quickly. My mild LQ4 turned into a 10:1 forged 398 stroker with LS3 heads and a pretty rowdy high lift truck cam. Just waiting on some parts to come in now. I’m not going to say a hp/tq number but it’s going to be serious and absolutely terrifying in a 60. It will make enough torque to instantly frag a 4L60 or 4L65 so that’s not an option. The truck doesn’t get wheeled hard. Its a camping/weekend/roadtrip truck.
I’m still debating wether to go with a th350 or th400 and custom driveshafts or the marks adapter kit for my H42.
Will the H42 survive if I don’t launch it and do burnouts? Has anyone put this kind of power in a 60 and lived?

 

[Totheredline]

Heres the meat and potatoes of this build, and my built 2F that someone told me wasn’t good enough.

 

[White Stripe]

A built 4l80e would be plenty strong for your motor.