How I grease my front driveshaft (6 Viewers)

[Artie]

I use Lucas Red N Tacky. I kind of imagine most anything is better than running with poor lubcation.

Agreed.

Do you ever experience a very faint burning grease oil smell after greasing for a while?

 

[bloc]

Not sure if this is completely the correct thread for this but it’s close enough.

I recently greased the driveline, 1200 miles ago, and since then I’ve had a very faint smell of burning oil. I feel fairly certain it’s from the u-joint by the transfer case that’s slung grease on the heat shield that’s right by the catalytic converter.

My question to the brain trust here is, is this just a failure to properly clean the excess grease or is grease slinging out of this ever so slightly just normal?

I’m including a picture of the suspected U-joint showing some evidence of possible grease slinging as well as the greased I used. I’ve rolled around underneath and this is my main suspect. One other possibility are the SPC UCA bushings squeak so I have applied a small amounts of Blaster Multi-MAX spray lube to the small gap where the mounting bolt makes contact with the bushing, this works for a few weeks worth of driving but any that doesn’t get on the intended target could be getting on something and making that smell once the vehicle achieves operating temp.

The grease I used appears to meet the requirements posted above by @AnyMal. I used this because I also use it on my camper bearings, camper articulating hitch, and SPC ball joints thus allowing me to travel with just one gun when we camp. If there’s a better option, which I see another thread with other choices, I’ll suck it up and buy a couple other guns and switch… I need to get the appropriate grease for the slide yoke anyway as I used the same stuff in the picture for that as well this time.

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It is normal for some grease to sling out, even if I’ve personally never noticed any smoking.

If we think about the centrifugal forces involved, the u-joint caps act like little cups keeping the rollers bathed in grease during operation. Grease is fed into them via drilled channels from the center of the cross, down into each cup via the legs of the cross.

After greasing the channel full from the zerk to the cap will undergo centrifugal force pulling that grease into the cap.. displacing that amount from the cap causing it to spill over. So even if you cleaned up every bit of the grease pushed out during adding, some extra will end up overflowing as soon as you build rotational speed with the shaft.

I embrace my ocd and clean up what is reasonable to get to after greasing, to minimize what ends up under the vehicle. But I’ll never get it all. And have to accept what I described above.

If it bothers you the best process is probably to grease it, clean what you can, go for a drive, then get under there again and clean up anything slung onto the heat shield or bottom of the rig.

I just had to accept those were areas unlikely to ever rust..

 

[Artie]

It is normal for some grease to sling out, even if I’ve personally never noticed any smoking.

If we think about the centrifugal forces involved, the u-joint caps act like little cups keeping the rollers bathed in grease during operation. Grease is fed into them via drilled channels from the center of the cross, down into each cup via the legs of the cross.

After greasing the channel full from the zerk to the cap will undergo centrifugal force pulling that grease into the cap.. displacing that amount from the cap whatever leading that amount to spill over. So even if you cleaned up every bit of the grease pushed out during adding, some extra will end up overflowing.

I embrace my ocd and clean up what is reasonable to get to after greasing, to minimize what ends up under the vehicle. But I’ll never get it all. And have to accept what I described above.

If it bothers you the best process is probably to grease it, clean what you can, go for a drive, then get under there again and clean up anything slung onto the heat shield or bottom of the rig.

I just had to accept those were areas unlikely to ever rust..

I can relate to the OCD you mentioned but I can live with a little mess if this is par for the course. I’ve spent most my life in vehicles that smells or noises typically meant I may be on the side of the road at a moments notice and old habits die hard. If the slight smell is normal than I can move on and find another OCD triggering project.

 

[CharlieS]

I do the same as @bloc, and what he says makes sense to me. I add grease, wipe off as much excess as I can, within reason, and call it good. I've never noticed a burning grease oil smell.

 

[04UZJ100]

Agreed.

Do you ever experience a very faint burning grease oil smell after greasing for a while?

This has to be normal - the areas around my joints are full of slung grease. I really dont care to clean it up and subsequently some of it gets slung on the exhaust.

I used to use M1 synthetic but recently switched to Green Grease. The needle grease gun adapter is still the best way I have found to reach all the zerks.

 

[Artie]

This has to be normal - the areas around my joints are full of slung grease. I really dont care to clean it up and subsequently some of it gets slung on the exhaust.

I used to use M1 synthetic but recently switched to Green Grease. The needle grease gun adapter is still the best way I have found to reach all the zerks.

Ok, good to know.

 

[Leelanau]

The center zerk is easy enough to get to. I won't spend any time on that.

The front zerk works the best for me when pointed directly to the passenger side of the vehicle. relatively easy to get to.

View attachment 1967374

Now the tricky one. The rear zerk on the front shaft can be difficult. I also go directly to the passenger side, and don't need to remove the exhaust heat shield some people mess with.

There is perfect little spot to get it with the gun lying on the crossmember behind the transmission.

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Do the same stuff you'd do with any driveshaft.. clean the zerk first (if you are new to this.. don't want to push dirt into the joint).

For the universal joints: pump grease in until you see fresh stuff coming out. Then I usually put on a medical glove and attempt to get as much grease out of the joint as I can to avoid it getting slung all over the bottom of the truck.

Center slip yoke zerk: DO NOT pump it totally full of grease, it can severely damage your transfer case.. there is some debate on amount, I use about 12 pumps.
Hope this helps.

Thank you @bloc for the excellent tips and instructions in this thread. Just did my first front and rear driveshaft lubrication using your method with Lucas Red n Tacky. I wanted to use your preferred X-tra heavy duty grease but there seems to be a nationwide supply shortage of that grease and I couldn’t find it locally or online. Your method worked like a charm even though I had to battle through some sticky zerks and my new grease gun losing prime a couple times.

 

[Artie]

Thank you @bloc for the excellent tips and instructions in this thread. Just did my first front and rear driveshaft lubrication using your method with Lucas Red n Tacky. I wanted to use your preferred X-tra heavy duty grease but there seems to be a nationwide supply shortage of that grease and I couldn’t find it locally or online. Your method worked like a charm even though I had to battle through some sticky zerks and my new grease gun losing prime a couple times.

View attachment 3238828

That’s one clean undercarriage, even that spare is spotless.

 

[Leelanau]

That’s one clean undercarriage, even that spare is spotless.

Guilty as charged. I put about 6000 miles on it shortly after buying it, then put it in storage after I took possession of my TRX. One thing is for sure, though, I don’t ever want to sell my 200, and the @turbo8 skid plates are lighting the fire under me to get a lift, tires, and more going.

 

[Artie]

Guilty as charged. I put about 6000 miles on it shortly after buying it, then put it in storage after I took possession of my TRX. One thing is for sure, though, I don’t ever want to sell my 200, and the @turbo8 skid plates are lighting the fire under me to get a lift, tires, and more going.

Same boat here, bought ours as an adventure only vehicle and it’s tough to walk past it in the garage to get into the daily sometimes. We’ll keep it so the kids can fight over it after we’re dead.

 

[sleepycruiser]

So after reading through several threads….if you had to choose one grease to use for the u-joints and drive shaft whichever oils you choose? I’d prefer to use one grease if possible and safe. I’d also be using the same grease on a GX.

 

[bloc]

So after reading through several threads….if you had to choose one grease to use for the u-joints and drive shaft whichever oils you choose? I’d prefer to use one grease if possible and safe. I’d also be using the same grease on a GX.

I use Lucas oil X-tra heavy duty green grease in mine, all joints. Easily sourced at orielly and more than meets the required specs.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I use Lucas oil X-tra heavy duty green grease in mine, all joints. Easily sourced at orielly and more than meets the required specs.

Thank you. Just to confirm….the link below is correct?

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[bloc]

Thank you. Just to confirm….the link below is correct?

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

That’s the stuff.

 

[sleepycruiser]

That’s the stuff.

Circling back to this….and now no one has the Lucas Xtra heavy duty in stock. Would the Lucas Red and Tacky #2 work in both the u-joints and drive shaft? (or both spiders and slide yokes)

Lucas 10005 Multi-Purpose Red N Tacky EP Grease - 14 Ounce - Dimensions Height 9.31" Width 2.2" Length 2.2" - Walmart.com

Buy Lucas 10005 Multi-Purpose Red N Tacky EP Grease - 14 Ounce - Dimensions Height 9.31" Width 2.2" Length 2.2" at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

 

[MikeVpdx503]

Circling back to this….and now no one has the Lucas Xtra heavy duty in stock. Would the Lucas Red and Tacky #2 work in both the u-joints and drive shaft? (or both spiders and slide yokes)

Lucas 10005 Multi-Purpose Red N Tacky EP Grease - 14 Ounce - Dimensions Height 9.31" Width 2.2" Length 2.2" - Walmart.com

Buy Lucas 10005 Multi-Purpose Red N Tacky EP Grease - 14 Ounce - Dimensions Height 9.31" Width 2.2" Length 2.2" at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

I have been using this in both u-joints and drive shaft for the last 6 years with no issues to report on my 2013 LC

Edit - I am so lazy, I even slather a little on my KDSS valve screws while I’m under there instead of using 3 different grease products

 

[sleepycruiser]

Rolled past another mini milestone heading out for a MTB ride today. 08 still rolling strong.
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I have been using this in both u-joints and drive shaft for the last 6 years with no issues to report on my 2013 LC

Edit - I am so lazy, I even slather a little on my KDSS valve screws while I’m under there instead of using 3 different grease products

Thanks. I’ll give it a go!

 

[LX4x4]

may I ask how you can rotate the driveshafts if needed to get it face the direction you need? Obviously would be to drive the vehicle back or forth a foot or less and see, would driving in 4 LOW make it easier to get more precise rotation?
Unlike old fashion 4Hi/Lo stick shifter, I don't recall seeing a neutral on the electronic controls of the 4 Hi/Lo buttons. ( I'm not sure if neutral will allow you to do this, it may still be difficult to turn by hand)

 

[bloc]

may I ask how you can rotate the driveshafts if needed to get it face the direction you need? Obviously would be to drive the vehicle back or forth a foot or less and see, would driving in 4 LOW make it easier to get more precise rotation?
Unlike old fashion 4Hi/Lo stick shifter, I don't recall seeing a neutral on the electronic controls of the 4 Hi/Lo buttons. ( I'm not sure if neutral will allow you to do this, it may still be difficult to turn by hand)

That’s the whole point of lifting one wheel off the ground with the transmission in neutral, as outlined in the first page. You can spin that tire and the driveshaft for that axle will rotate into whatever orientation you want.

 

[04UZJ100]

That’s the whole point of lifting one wheel off the ground with the transmission in neutral, as outlined in the first page. You can spin that tire and the driveshaft for that axle will rotate into whatever orientation you want.

I had both wheels up on the same side while rotating tires. I was able to spin the drive shafts by hand while in Park. That’s gonna be my go-to technique from now on.