How I grease my front driveshaft (6 Viewers)

[bloc]

To avoid breaking the zerk try not to lever it too far one direction or the other. A small amount of this movement to release is normal but if it’s not letting go try to pry it directly off with a screwdriver or something. If you pull straight there should be plenty of meat on the zerk threads to avoid breaking.

Try loosening the barrel at the end of your grease gun tip a bit. They “should” all be standard tension but as mentioned tolerances probably aren’t great. I think loosening this barrel will release some pressure on the metal hooks that grab the zerk.

 

[afgman786]

Thanks for the input @Sandroad @Eyedaho @bloc . For this zerk, I did use the flexible hose instead of the straight pipe, since it wasn't long enough to clear having the grease gun attached. I'm wondering if the issue was using the flexible hose or the tip that was on the flexible hose. Regardless, I appreciate the input and will be looking for a long enough straight pipe.

 

[OregonLC]

I use a flexible hose with a Lock-N-Lube connector. The connector was too big to fit on the rear spider for the front shaft as shown in the pics above. Super easy solution: Rotate the zerk to face completely vertical (straight up). There's a big space between the shaft and the body next to the heat shield and you can easily grab onto that zerk by approaching it from the top.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I use a flexible hose with a Lock-N-Lube connector. The connector was too big to fit on the rear spider for the front shaft as shown in the pics above. Super easy solution: Rotate the zerk to face completely vertical (straight up). There's a big space between the shaft and the body next to the heat shield and you can easily grab onto that zerk by approaching it from the top.

Same here, works great.

 

[NTV]

I actually found a non-hose gun easier as when you push on the gun the tip will snap directly on to the zerks.. no having to push on the hose itself near the nozzle. And once the shaft is oriented correctly the straight gun fits very easily.

Either way.. whatever works. This is just one option.

I also like the idea of using moly on the slip joints, but my spare moly gun is on the fritz so the Lucas Synthetic has been getting put in there too.

If the only grease I have is valvoline synthetic is it okay to use on all three area of the drive shaft Front, Center, and Rear? Okay to use on UCA’s also? Or best to have the different types you reference?

 

[bloc]

If the only grease I have is valvoline synthetic is it okay to use on all three area of the drive shaft Front, Center, and Rear? Okay to use on UCA’s also? Or best to have the different types you reference?

I can’t speak for your UCAs, follow whatever directions they have.

There is a theoretical case to be made for moly grease in the slip section being “better” at protecting that kind of joint. Thing is failure of toyota slip joints is basically unheard of, and nearly all of them get regular lithium grease. So I doubt it’ll make a substantial difference.

 

[NTV]

I can’t speak for your UCAs, follow whatever directions they have.

There is a theoretical case to be made for moly grease in the slip section being “better” at protecting that kind of joint. Thing is failure of toyota slip joints is basically unheard of, and nearly all of them get regular lithium grease. So I doubt it’ll make a substantial difference.

Cool Thank you!

 

[AnyMal]

Hey guys, getting some stuff ordered to prepare for this soon and would rather just keep one gun around.

Lithium NLGI 2 is fine for both but not Moly? Isnt moly grease better?
What is actually best and not just cost based service recommendation?

 

[bloc]

Hey guys, getting some stuff ordered to prepare for this soon and would rather just keep one gun around.

Lithium NLGI 2 is fine for both but not Moly? Isnt moly grease better?
What is actually best and not just cost based service recommendation?


View attachment 2809585

Moly is bad for rolling bearings like the needles in your u-joints. Moly is technically a little better for sliding joints like the splines, but lithium will 100% get the job done on our shafts.

You’ll be just fine using a good lithium grease on both. I like Lucas X-Tra heavy duty.

For all the talk about moly on the splines I don’t even bother with it anymore.

 

[AnyMal]

Moly is bad for rolling bearings like the needles in your u-joints. Moly is technically a little better for sliding joints like the splines, but lithium will 100% get the job done on our shafts.

You’ll be just fine using a good lithium grease on both. I like Lucas X-Tra heavy duty.

For all the talk about moly on the splines I don’t even bother with it anymore.

Thanks thats exactly what i wanted to know.

 

[joephilly]

I use a flexible hose with a Lock-N-Lube connector. The connector was too big to fit on the rear spider for the front shaft as shown in the pics above. Super easy solution: Rotate the zerk to face completely vertical (straight up). There's a big space between the shaft and the body next to the heat shield and you can easily grab onto that zerk by approaching it from the top.

I found this thread very helpful when I went to grease my new-to-me LC200, but like everyone said the rear spider for the front driveshaft was the hardest to reach. In my case with Victory 4x4 front and transfer case skid plates, I couldn't use the passenger-side crossmember trick mentioned by @bloc and the top-access method @OregonLC mentions here was also not possible. At least without removing the transfer case skid. I wanted to attempt this without removing the skids...

Using a Lock-n-Lube connector and flexible tube, I was *just* able to reach the zerk fitting from the driver's side by removing the heat shield shown in the middle of the picture here (with 1x of the 2x 12mm bolts visible):

This is looking from the driver's side, with everything reassembled. The aluminum skid is along the bottom of the picture, and the (now greasy) exhaust pipe along the top. The hard-to-reach zerk is behind that heat sheld. It wasn't easy getting the Lock-n-lube bit onto the zerk, but I will say it's much easier once the exhaust has cooled!

 

[kcjaz]

I actually found a non-hose gun easier as when you push on the gun the tip will snap directly on to the zerks.. no having to push on the hose itself near the nozzle. And once the shaft is oriented correctly the straight gun fits very easily.

Either way.. whatever works. This is just one option.

I also like the idea of using moly on the slip joints, but my spare moly gun is on the fritz so the Lucas Synthetic has been getting put in there too.

I hit the drive shafts with grease yesterday and really struggled with the front shaft near the transfer case. I had read this thread when I did this last time and used the zerk alignment in @bloc photo (used my flex hose though) so I know it works but I couldn't for the life of me get it to work yesterday. The "pointed up" position didn't work either as my flexible grease hose wasn't flexible enough. After struggling for more than an hour, I went out and bought a smaller diameter flex hose that is much more flexible. That worked great. You can’t see the spider in the pic but the tip is on the zerk.

Also, for those with BudBuilt skids, you do not have to drop the transfer skid. You only need to remove the engine skid in front of it.

 

[bloc]

I hit the drive shafts with grease yesterday and really struggled with the front shaft near the transfer case. I had read this thread when I did this last time and used the zerk alignment in @bloc photo (used my flex hose though) so I know it works but I couldn't for the life of me get it to work yesterday. The "pointed up" position didn't work either as my flexible grease hose wasn't flexible enough. After struggling for more than an hour, I went out and bought a smaller diameter flex hose that is much more flexible. That worked great. You can’t see the spider in the pic but the tip is on the zerk.

View attachment 3055270
Also, for those with BudBuilt skids, you do not have to drop the transfer skid. You only need to remove the engine skid in front of it.

With a new set of Slee skids on I’ll be looking at the flexible hose method after my next trip.

 

[1Maverick]

When should this been done? Mileage or age?

 

[bloc]

When should this been done? Mileage or age?

Check your owner's manual for definitive numbers but I seem to remember every 5k for the severe duty cycle most of us operate under, or any time you go through a water crossing.

 

[NTV]

Check your owner's manual for definitive numbers but I seem to remember every 5k for the severe duty cycle most of us operate under, or any time you go through a water crossing.

I too used the lock and lube and was able to get all three zerks on the rear front middle and rear toward rear differential. Are these the only three or stupid question are there more than these three zerks?

 

[bloc]

I too used the lock and lube and was able to get all three zerks on the rear front middle and rear toward rear differential. Are these the only three or stupid question are there more than these three zerks?

Six total.

Front u-joint, rear u-joint, and slip-yoke (middle) on each driveshaft.

 

[NTV]

Six total.

Front u-joint, rear u-joint, and slip-yoke (middle) on each driveshaft.

Copy that. I only got three on the rear shaft. Missed the front shaft I think. Thanks for the info! Was going quick when i was under doing oil change. Should have slowed down and looked closer! Thank you!!!!!

 

[Artie]

Not sure if this is completely the correct thread for this but it’s close enough.

I recently greased the driveline, 1200 miles ago, and since then I’ve had a very faint smell of burning oil. I feel fairly certain it’s from the u-joint by the transfer case that’s slung grease on the heat shield that’s right by the catalytic converter.

My question to the brain trust here is, is this just a failure to properly clean the excess grease or is grease slinging out of this ever so slightly just normal?

I’m including a picture of the suspected U-joint showing some evidence of possible grease slinging as well as the greased I used. I’ve rolled around underneath and this is my main suspect. One other possibility are the SPC UCA bushings squeak so I have applied a small amounts of Blaster Multi-MAX spray lube to the small gap where the mounting bolt makes contact with the bushing, this works for a few weeks worth of driving but any that doesn’t get on the intended target could be getting on something and making that smell once the vehicle achieves operating temp.

The grease I used appears to meet the requirements posted above by @AnyMal. I used this because I also use it on my camper bearings, camper articulating hitch, and SPC ball joints thus allowing me to travel with just one gun when we camp. If there’s a better option, which I see another thread with other choices, I’ll suck it up and buy a couple other guns and switch… I need to get the appropriate grease for the slide yoke anyway as I used the same stuff in the picture for that as well this time.

 

[CharlieS]

I use Lucas Red N Tacky. I kind of imagine most anything is better than running with poor lubcation.