Wadesters
SILVER Star
With the upcoming storm tonight, just wondering how high can you drive in water an FJ40 Land Cruiser that does not have a snorkel. Thank you.
How high can you drive an FJ40 in water without a snorkel? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wadesters
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Good chance your electrics will short out long before you need a snorkel. Once the fan hits water all bets are off.
"It was only half up on the duck"
"It was only half up on the duck"
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
There is no cut and dry answer. It depends on the vintage of the rig for starters. And you did not specify.
You also did not indicate if it is the original engine or a swap. If it is a swap, all bets are off and I am not even gonna try to guess what you have going on under the hood.
You also do not indicate how much/if the rig is lifted.
If you are still original... The '78 and later FJ40s had a pretty darn good waterproofing approach for the distributor. Earlier ones did not. If you have the later model dist and you have applied a good dose of silicon grease (dielectric grease) to all of the spark plug wires (and ignition coil lead) the brief submergence of these ignition components is no problem.
I have lost track of how many times I have had my (properly sealed) ignition system under water.
If you have the OEM air filter assembly on the rig, so long as you keep the air intake of the air filter assembly above the water, you are good. If you have one of those open air filter assemblies like people like to put on their holly and weber carbs, you are gonna have to keep the engine speed low to reduce the amount of water that the fan is gonna throw all over everything.
I would recommend that if you do not have deep water crossing experience, keep the water level in the engine compartment below the carb even if you have the OEM air filter assembly... Below the dist if it is not a sealed unit.
Proper technique matters too. You want to move fast enough to create a bow wave at the front of the rig, but slow enough not to overtake it. This creates a trough behind the wave which reduces water level in the engine area. Catching it eliminate the trough and you now have elevated water levels as the water crashes against and stacks up on the front of the rig.
Higher speed also increases the amount of power required to push through the water.
Along with throwing more water over the engine, higher engine rpm with a fan in the water can aslo cause the fan to flex forward and hit the radiator. Not good.
I am speaking about slow moving, or standing water here. Crossing faster moving water safely is a complicated subject that I am not gonna try to break down in answer to this question.
Mark...
You also did not indicate if it is the original engine or a swap. If it is a swap, all bets are off and I am not even gonna try to guess what you have going on under the hood.
You also do not indicate how much/if the rig is lifted.
If you are still original... The '78 and later FJ40s had a pretty darn good waterproofing approach for the distributor. Earlier ones did not. If you have the later model dist and you have applied a good dose of silicon grease (dielectric grease) to all of the spark plug wires (and ignition coil lead) the brief submergence of these ignition components is no problem.
I have lost track of how many times I have had my (properly sealed) ignition system under water.
If you have the OEM air filter assembly on the rig, so long as you keep the air intake of the air filter assembly above the water, you are good. If you have one of those open air filter assemblies like people like to put on their holly and weber carbs, you are gonna have to keep the engine speed low to reduce the amount of water that the fan is gonna throw all over everything.
I would recommend that if you do not have deep water crossing experience, keep the water level in the engine compartment below the carb even if you have the OEM air filter assembly... Below the dist if it is not a sealed unit.
Proper technique matters too. You want to move fast enough to create a bow wave at the front of the rig, but slow enough not to overtake it. This creates a trough behind the wave which reduces water level in the engine area. Catching it eliminate the trough and you now have elevated water levels as the water crashes against and stacks up on the front of the rig.
Higher speed also increases the amount of power required to push through the water.
Along with throwing more water over the engine, higher engine rpm with a fan in the water can aslo cause the fan to flex forward and hit the radiator. Not good.
I am speaking about slow moving, or standing water here. Crossing faster moving water safely is a complicated subject that I am not gonna try to break down in answer to this question.
Mark...
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
If the engine is underwater, and it stalls... then water can come up the exhaust and enter into any cylinder with an open exhaust valve. If the engine is running water will not intrude and it will not (at the kind of depths we are talking about here) be an issue.
Mark...
Please don't put yourself in a position where driving through stormwater is necessary.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
An '82 will have a clutch fan. You *can* stop and secure the fan with a piece of rope (or your belt, or, or, or...) for a deep-ish crossing so that it can not rotate. This prevents it from throwing water all over that exposed air filter. A good hard dousing will toss enough water onto an open filter that the engine will be able to suck enough through to cause it to stall.
Securing the fan from rotation will also ensure that it does not flex into the radiator if you let the rpm creep up. The clutch fans are pretty good about not transmitted enough torque to the fan to flex it... usually. But it can still happen.
Mark...
Securing the fan from rotation will also ensure that it does not flex into the radiator if you let the rpm creep up. The clutch fans are pretty good about not transmitted enough torque to the fan to flex it... usually. But it can still happen.
Mark...
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Definitely not 15 to 20 feet.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Considering that Newnan is some 260 miles from the coast and there are no significant rivers in the area... You may see some rain, but it looks to me like you'd have to go looking hard for low spots to find enough water to care about. Not gonna be doing any emergency evac in that area either it does not appear.
Put your rubber boots on and go splash in the puddles!
Mark...
Put your rubber boots on and go splash in the puddles!
Mark...
Are you trying to collect insurance money Chris?
1911
chupacabra
I once drove mine (12/79-build) through a large (several acres) pond, following some other people on a trail run. It was a lot deeper than I would have chosen to go through, but I had to keep going and give it more throttle, and just keep moving. Water was splashing over the top of the hood, and I was making a hell of a bow wave. Came out just fine with no ill effects whatsoever. Pretty scary at the time; I was afraid it might stall.
Have not seen axle vents mentioned. These should be run up high with hose to something like a cheap fuel filter.
Gearboxes likewise, but they are up a little higher and probably tougher to take care of.
Gearboxes likewise, but they are up a little higher and probably tougher to take care of.
DeskJock
SILVER Star
I go above my lower door frame and especially won’t go above my oil dip stick.
And - that could be pushed in a life threatening situation.
And - as Charlie states - factory fan or similar - might not make the event.
And - that could be pushed in a life threatening situation.
And - as Charlie states - factory fan or similar - might not make the event.
I think you are way better off with a diesel. I once drove my deuce and a half threw a mud hole made by some pissed of tanker people at the end of Reforger field exercise; that up to the bottom of the door on that truck. I would have never tried it in a 5/4 or the jeep.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Mark W's advice is about spot on. Bow wave will let you go deeper than you probably should. It's OK to go deep until it's not. If you're pushing a bow wave and then engine stalls could be problematic. Hydrolocking the engine can be catastrophic. If you go deeper than the lockouts you should repack your wheel bearings shortly after. I've run water over my hood with the bow wave with no problems, and thru water above my door openings. I do run an sbc with an HEI dist high and protected. I've never had an issue with water at the height of the tires. The position of the dist on the 6 cylinder is relatively low.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
As for open air cleaners, we would cut a piece of sheetmetal as wide as the filter elements height and it's length would be 1/2 the filter elements diameter. Place it in front of the filter element and the lip of the air cleaners lid and base would hold/pinch it in place. It protects frt of the element and the engine sucks air from the open backside. .
My 40 isn’t lifted, and the last time it was in flood water the tires were 31” BFG Mud Terrains. My son and I were pulling cars in water up to my knees, maybe a little deeper. The driver/passenger floors had an inch or so water inside. No issues.
Speaking of axle vents. Anyone know why the rear axle has an elevated vent via a tube and the front just has the standard port on the housing? It’s this way on my 81
Here’s a pic of the rear vent.
And the front vent
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Damn thats one nice breather hose. I generally just use standard rubber fuel line.
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