How do I fix this properly?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Threads
447
Messages
1,858
Location
Dallas
Website
www.octagonmma.com
Drivers side wheelwell where the PO replaced the quarter panel.....




 
Last edited:
Try to post this over in paint and body forum they will know what to do.
 
Drill out the spot welds, remove and replace with a replacement wheel well.
GL

ED
 
OK. What else? What would the DIY be for that rotted flange up against the new quarterpanel?
 
You asked how to do it properly.


Thanks!;)

OK. What else? What would the DIY be for that rotted flange up against the new quarterpanel?

No easy way to fix that other than what I suggested.

Oh, and I think you left this on your last post.....................:flipoff2: and a spare....:flipoff2::hillbilly:
 
Alex, your s*** is too nice not to do it properly. I read all your posts and you are in the process of a very nice build. This is not the time to go cheap. ESPECIALLY if you have new quarters.....................no wonder you escaped from law skool;)


Ed
 
So this wheel well has go to go and the opposite corner has to go and I have a solid sill, but the inner curved piece is rotted........CCOT here I come! So much for saving some $ this month.
 
That has got to be the biggest laugh yet! YOU OWN A CRUISER! Where did you plan on saving money! See you on wrench day! Unless I get some time off from work.
 
T section

You could weld in an L or T section it seems instead of replacing the whole thing and still cut out all the bad metal
also you could do it in a couple sections to keep the body together as you work

You would still miss those rolled sections so it should come out looking normal

that way you are only fixing whats bad and keeping whats good intact --all new seems a bigger job and greater expense and it should look the same either way when finished

work small welds and join them to keep down warping
 
Last edited:
Oh you are fun-nay!

That has got to be the biggest laugh yet! YOU OWN A CRUISER! Where did you plan on saving money! See you on wrench day! Unless I get some time off from work.

:flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Now we are talking!

You could weld in an L or T section it seems instead of replacing the whole thing and still cut out all the bad metal
also you could do it in a couple sections to keep the body together as you work

You would still miss those rolled sections so it should come out looking normal

that way you are only fixing whats bad and keeping whats good intact --all new seems a bigger job and greater expense and it should look the same either way when finished

work small welds and join them to keep down warping


Exactly what I was thinking, plus this will have Rust Bullet over it twice, then Linex. It will never see the light of day. Now if it were a show room car, that'd be another matter altogether. Strength of the "L" would be the same, correct?
 
Put a rubber mat or carpet over it and wait 10 years until it gets worse.
Pin_Head - I should have gotten your advice before cutting into the back of mine :)

Me too - I'm going to try the "tiny patch" approach. Once I get the complete rear sill replaced (now removed), I'm going to try to retain as much original steel as possible.
 
Last edited:
thickness

Normal repair is to use the same gauge but you could go slightly thicker if you're worried about strength but it might show more that way. I dont think the metal would be the issue, more the quality of the welds.
 
Alex, I had the same problem in the rear tub of mine. Iam going to reskin the tub....some day, but until then I used a little rust bullet and silicone just to keep the water out. Maybe a bead of jb weild? :D

I would do it right if I had the funds, and good body shop will be able to fix that.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom