My 1996 FZJ80 air conditioning works, but when it’s set to pull in outside air on highest fan setting on a 95F (35C) day in dry Colorado heat the AC probably blows 65F (18C) air. Is that normal or should I evacuate and recharge the system? I checked the sight glass and it’s full and I see bubbles when I shut the key off (correct per FSM) but no other time. A/C is definitely working but I wish it blew colder.
How Cold Should FZJ80 A/C Be?
- Thread starter BucketEighty
- Start date
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Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Mine blows 42F
a temp probe down in the vent on full blast should read in the 40s.
You lads that are recoding temps in the 40's can you confirm what the ambient temp is when make this measurement.
My AC normally works like a champ but when the ambient temps creep above 90f/32c it definitely is stressed and for sure nothing in the 40's is remotely possible.
My AC normally works like a champ but when the ambient temps creep above 90f/32c it definitely is stressed and for sure nothing in the 40's is remotely possible.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
I’m in central Texas in upper 90’s most days and never slide the temp selector all the way to the coldest setting… but I’ve never tested the air temp at the vents.
Mine used to struggle keeping up in the Phoenix summer heat but once I replaced the condenser with a parallel flow unit, I have ice cold air all the time. Maybe an OEM condenser would've done the trick but all the newer cars use parallel flow for superior heat transfer. I have a post detailing the unit I installed...think I bought it at Rock Auto. Charged the AC myself to OEM spec and it's been solid ever since, in Phoenix and now in Knoxville. 
- Thread starter
- #8
Any chance you can dig up the part number of the condenser you used?Mine used to struggle keeping up in the Phoenix summer heat but once I replaced the condenser with a parallel flow unit, I have ice cold air all the time. Maybe an OEM condenser would've done the trick but all the newer cars use parallel flow for superior heat transfer. I have a post detailing the unit I installed...think I bought it at Rock Auto. Charged the AC myself to OEM spec and it's been solid ever since, in Phoenix and now in Knoxville.
Your evaporator is probably plugged up full of crap. Check out this link:
forum.ih8mud.com
A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve
It's summer and some of us are experiencing A/C troubles so I think it's time to do a writeup on how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator and expansion valve out of a '97 80 series. Removal of the cooling unit is very straight forward, plan on about half hour and minimal cursing :D You...
forum.ih8mud.com
I’m in Broomfield CO, the other day when it was 93 up here I did a check to make sure everything was tip top.
At 93f I was at 51deg at 1500rpm parked at normal operating temp. My low side was 30psi and high side was 201 no real bubbles to be seen in the sightglass.
At 93f I was at 51deg at 1500rpm parked at normal operating temp. My low side was 30psi and high side was 201 no real bubbles to be seen in the sightglass.
^^Same as GeoRoss.
If coolant temps are low, I’ll get ~45*ish at idle if it is above 100* outside. As the coolant temp rises and more fan engagement it will do 42 or less at idle. I need to add an electric in front of the condenser… Where’s that old thread?
If coolant temps are low, I’ll get ~45*ish at idle if it is above 100* outside. As the coolant temp rises and more fan engagement it will do 42 or less at idle. I need to add an electric in front of the condenser… Where’s that old thread?
@BucketEighty here's the original thread with the part details and the original Rock Auto link:
Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/micro-tube-parallel-flow-condenser.995874/
Nissens condenser P/N 94184 (original OEM P/N 88460-60160)
Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/micro-tube-parallel-flow-condenser.995874/
Nissens condenser P/N 94184 (original OEM P/N 88460-60160)
NISSENS 94184 A/C Condenser | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
Maybe I'm misunderstanding your post so just a quick question, Why would you have your AC set to pull in HOT 95 degree outside air into the cabin, instead of having it set to just recirculate the air that your trying to cool inside your cabin?
Check to see if your Heater Control valve cable by the firewall fully extends the valve to the off position and not partially.
EDIT Just read above Robniko suggest the same
EDIT Just read above Robniko suggest the same
RiverCityDave
SILVER Star
I live in the ATX, do all my AC work, and take cool air seriously. An often overlooked part of this deal is a fully functioning cooling system. If you're not drawing hot air off the radiator, either through airflow from driving or from a good fan and shroud combo, you'll get heat soak in those parts (where your condenser is), and the temperature will go up. If you live somewhere genuinely hot, (*edit-I just looked and saw you're in CO, the thin air there makes it harder to pull heat out, so the fan would help you there too.) you might consider one of the many condenser fan kits the vendors sell. They make a big difference at low speed, and at idle.
To answer your question, though, on a 98-100-degree day here, with average to high Texas humidity, I get 39-40 at the vent going down the road and 41-43 at idle.
I agree about checking the heater control valve, but I've never personally seen one malfunction. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, and it's an easy check. Also, DEFINITELY clean out the cooling unit box. If you've never done it, it will be full of crap that will restrict the airflow. It's not quite as easy, but it's much more likely to be a problem. If your temperature goes way up after driving, your expansion valve could be the issue.
In any case, all of this is available, OEM stuff can be picked up at RockAuto and you can redo the whole system for a few hundred dollars (minus the compressor, which really never fails unless you run dirty refrigerant or the wrong type or level of oil through it) and you'll have the aforementioned "Anniston Temps".
To answer your question, though, on a 98-100-degree day here, with average to high Texas humidity, I get 39-40 at the vent going down the road and 41-43 at idle.
I agree about checking the heater control valve, but I've never personally seen one malfunction. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, and it's an easy check. Also, DEFINITELY clean out the cooling unit box. If you've never done it, it will be full of crap that will restrict the airflow. It's not quite as easy, but it's much more likely to be a problem. If your temperature goes way up after driving, your expansion valve could be the issue.
In any case, all of this is available, OEM stuff can be picked up at RockAuto and you can redo the whole system for a few hundred dollars (minus the compressor, which really never fails unless you run dirty refrigerant or the wrong type or level of oil through it) and you'll have the aforementioned "Anniston Temps".
^^^^^
'Tis an excellent question and I was wondering that myself.
But to answer the OP's original question: A properly working A/C system should be capable of Vent Temps at least 30°F lower than the ambient temperature. Personally....I am not happy if I don't see 40+ degrees difference, but 30 degrees less than ambient should be the minimum.
- Thread starter
- #20
I have two kids in the second row and a third kid and a dog on the third row. The cabin outflow vents are behind the third row seat so if the A/C is set to pull in outside air then the cool air flows back through the whole vehicle and cools the dog and kid in the third row before hot air gets purged out the vents. If I set it to recirculate, the front two seats get nice and chilly and the dog and third row kid get cooked.
I haven’t put a temp probe on the vents but I’ve been paying more attention to the vent temps (by feel, no real probe) and they seem to drop to good levels when engine RPMs are 1500 or higher and temps are even lower when cruising at 45mph or higher. Stopped at idle the A/C gets noticeably warmer.
I’m in the market for an electric fan to move air through the radiator and condenser stopped and idling. I won’t recharge the refrigerant since it seems to be working inline with most of the posts here and I’m not feeling ambitious enough to try and clean out all the gunk that’s likely in the blower box and condenser yet.
