hot shower heat exchanger

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dustin

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Oct 19, 2004
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I found a place that sells heat exchangers like this one:

http://www.lytron.com/standard/he_liquid.asp

Its dimensions are about 12" x 6" x 4".

Has anyone here had experience with this type of exchanger? I want to use it as my hot shower exchanger and am wondering if it will transfer enough heat to the cold water from my 350 with a 180 thermostat.

I may be able to get a few of these for around $50.00 each if anyone else is interrested too.

thanks!
Dustin
 
The deal with those is the rate at which the water flows. Use the exchangers efficiency and flow ratings to determine how quickly the water is heated from river temp (or wherever) to shower temp. You'll need to size one for a couple gallons of water flow (shower head might take 3 gpm max) at max 120 degrees. More flow is cooler water, and less is hotter water. Warmer / colder river water is going to require lower and higher levels of heating. That system is going to need to be pretty dynamic to control the right amount of water flow to get the shower temp just right. Might be a good idea to fill a jug with the warm water then rinse the stink off with that rather than screw with the flow to a shower head and risk burns or worse, a cold shower....
 
I've used plate heat exchangers and the work well. Awp_cruiser's right, regulating the temp would be hard. I would put a valve on the coolant loop to the exchanger and vary the flow of coolant from the engine to control the temp.


Kevin
 
yeah, will have a valve on it to regulate hot water flow and a manual idle control to adjust the idle to get it hotter. All normal accessories for hot showers.
Most exchangers I have seen a use copper coils inside a 3" copper tube style (like Deckers). I havent seen this kind in action, but "they" say they work even better?
Guess I will be the guinea pig for only $50.00, and just add another one if I can't get the water hot enough. My bud already has about $100 into just the parts for his, and its not even soldered together yet.

-Dustin
 
for those with a stick:

hot_water.jpg
 
The one you had in the link I've used for hot water applications and it will make around 3 gal per min of 100 degree rise water with 180 degree heat source ( that's 100 degree increase in the incoming water temp). The flow rate off coolant will change that as will the heat recovery of the heat source (what the hell is the useable BTU output of a F2?). Most shower heads put out less then 3 gal per min so I would think one would work fine.


Kevin
 
Toyo FJ40 said:
The one you had in the link I've used for hot water applications and it will make around 3 gal per min of 100 degree rise water with 180 degree heat source ( that's 100 degree increase in the incoming water temp). The flow rate off coolant will change that as will the heat recovery of the heat source (what the hell is the useable BTU output of a F2?). Most shower heads put out less then 3 gal per min so I would think one would work fine.


Kevin
Click to expand...

Kevin-
thanks man. that is what I was hoping to have confirmed. And with a better, more factual explanation that I could have provided. :)
This thing should work well I hope. Easy to mount and is smaller (shorter atelast) than the tube exchangers I was going to make. Half the cost too. Plus it has fittings that accept a garden hose already, though I may mount hose attachment points elsewhere so that the exchanger gets as little handling as possible. I can see myself tightening the hose for the 100th time and have the fitting come loose.

cheers-
Dustin
 
A couple of years ago I designed and built one to compete with the R&M unit (coil style). The R&M unit does not provide a great enough temperature differential for high mountain streams and only flows at 1.5 gpm. You sometimes need to run your water thru it twice to get it warm enough to be comfortable. If you need to run the shower water twice you cant use a stream. I was able to get a 40-degree differential (70 degrees in and 110 degrees out) at 3gpm and if more temp was needed I would slow the shower water down. If I needed to lower the shower temp I would slow the feed to the exchanger. The reason its not for sale at this time is if you stop the shower flow at the head and wait 15 - 30 seconds you can get up to 165 degree water when it is started again. An on-board shower is a kick ass accessory if it works. Good luck with yours.

Shower is on my 60, V8 powered with a 195 t-stat.
 
these are probably pretty efficient compared to the tube-in-tube design because there is more surface area for heat transfer. However, usually on this type of design, the gap betwen the plates is small and the herringbone pattern can cause plugging if either of your fluid sides is dirty. Industrial plate heat exchangers can come apart for cleaning, but it looks like these are brazed together. If your coolant system is free of debris and you put a filter (foam) on the fresh water inlet, you should be OK. If you have problems with your radiator fouling, this thing will plug up too.
 
2mbb said:
these are probably pretty efficient compared to the tube-in-tube design because there is more surface area for heat transfer. However, usually on this type of design, the gap betwen the plates is small and the herringbone pattern can cause plugging if either of your fluid sides is dirty. Industrial plate heat exchangers can come apart for cleaning, but it looks like these are brazed together. If your coolant system is free of debris and you put a filter (foam) on the fresh water inlet, you should be OK. If you have problems with your radiator fouling, this thing will plug up too.
Click to expand...


This is true, the plates are about 1/8 of an inch apart and with the harringbone stamped into the plates is even closer. The one he's looking at is brazed.

If you were doing it with hose connectors you could get the washer machine screen washers. Wouldn't help with the coolant lines.


Kevin
 
2mbb and Toyo Fj40- Very good points about that thing clogging. Yeah, I think its brazed, so its going to be hard to clean out. I guess that is another reason the tube style is pretty good.
I will get filters for the coolant inlet and the coldwater inlet.

thanks guys-
Dustin
 
I was curious as to why does teh one from R&M products costs so much? I found one online for $339. I know part of that is the pump and other accessories but still...! How is the tubular style constructed? Are there two copper tubes coiled up inside or just one copper tube inside a large copper pipe?
 
alia176 said:
I was curious as to why does teh one from R&M products costs so much? I found one online for $339. I know part of that is the pump and other accessories but still...! How is the tubular style constructed? Are there two copper tubes coiled up inside or just one copper tube inside a large copper pipe?
Click to expand...

I don’t know if they have changed there design but at one time it was several small tubes.
 
Have you tried it? It says is mainly a 3 season shower which makes me think it's not very powerful. I't makes me think you have got to use the buck and recirculate the water for a while until its hot. Which means take one shower fill it back up recirculte for a while and repeat. A heat exchanger requires only you to start the car and a twelve volt pump with hose to a stream. Unlimited hot water.

I'll give the heat exchanger a shot. Heck the only time I go car camping is really with the cruiser. Plus it would be pretty cool.
 
gents-
my bud went over to the place today and says there arent anymore left. Well, he got the last two- one for him, one for me.

sorry guys. If they get more in I will grab them and get back to you.

cheers-
Dustin
 
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