Hot drivers feet? This may be your fix.
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
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Replaced ours in the 92 today. I'm thinking it was needing to be replaced. Thanks Phil for your awesome write-up.
Did mine at dusk last night, less than 30 min, another great how-to, thanks!
Could this be why my center console is an oven? I could roast a turkey in mine
Nice fix! Will order mine tomorrow!
The center console gets hot due to trapped/conducted engine heat in the transmission tunnel which doesn't get much air circulation.
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Here's a link to a firewall steering shaft support:
Buy Steering Shaft Firewall Bearing Support at Bryke Racing Parts
I've wondered if there needs to be a flexible steering shaft mount/seal at the firewall to allow for movement between the frame and the body??
Good call Phil ! Another thing I did not know needed fixin... Although I do get hot feet, especially during summer, I contributed it to the tranny tunnel getting hot. I will try one of the aftermarket bearing seals, in order to deal with the wobble problem and post back in due time with results. If I get around to it...
Thanks for sharing Phil. Cheers !
Thanks for sharing Phil. Cheers !
I pulled my seats, carpet, console, etc, and insulated the floor and doors with CruiserCrap QuietCrap. Worlds of difference with the console heat, and ambient sound in the interior. Took a bit of time and effort, and some money, but I could not be happier. Plus the
feet are no longer on fire in the summer months. 
and threadjack over.Steve
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How has this bearing seal from So-Cal Speed Shop held up? BTW - Why is So-Cal in Sacramento, shouldn't it be called Nor-Cal?
I'd like to know too since I followed the air inlet thread over here, looked at the gasket in my 97 and don't see one at all! There's just a piece of sound deadener backed rubber panel inside held in place on one side by what looks like velcro. Is this supposed to be there or did someone try to patch up the hole?
It doesn't even come close to closing off the space though. The hole is too big.
Before seeing the bearing fix I was thinking a cheap and easy cure would be a similar rubber patch with a hole that exactly fits the shaft snugly, and then slicing it on one side (the right side since the shaft is offset to the left when the wheel is centered) This would allow the shaft to move when turning but keep the hole sealed when traveling straight, which is most of the time.
So how is the bearing fix holding up?
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It doesn't even come close to closing off the space though. The hole is too big.
Before seeing the bearing fix I was thinking a cheap and easy cure would be a similar rubber patch with a hole that exactly fits the shaft snugly, and then slicing it on one side (the right side since the shaft is offset to the left when the wheel is centered) This would allow the shaft to move when turning but keep the hole sealed when traveling straight, which is most of the time.
So how is the bearing fix holding up?
.
I'd be interested in hearing how the bearing flange is holding up too. I found this on fleabay and am mulling it over right now:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Firewall-Fl...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item230ee9c5db&vxp=mtr
Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Firewall-Fl...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item230ee9c5db&vxp=mtr
Thoughts?
Checked it out but didn't like the design. The opening is 3/4" and appears to be press fit. I ended up ordering this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Sh...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4cfd186901&vxp=mtr
3/4" opening but has set screws which should allow securing the shaft to the bearing. For < $17 shipped, seems like an inexpensive mod. Had to check mine out and it also had a slightly torn boot with the left offset. Looks like I'll have another item added to my PM list.