Builds Honu. A build thread. (1 Viewer)

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Thank you for all your input here! I really appreciate it. With the increased caster numbers come potential driveline issues right? Making a part time kit and/or a DC driveshaft a likely necessity.
You will definitely need a DC shaft with the lift those slinky’s will give. Per my experience with Slee brand 4” castor plates and 3” of lift the DC shaft worked perfectly. I began going taller and taller up to where I’m at now about 5.5”. As you lift the pinion will rise proportionately keeping the pinion pointed at the transfer case output like it needs to be to run a DC shaft (ideally zero angle between the driveline and front pinion companion flange). The DC shaft will continue to run satisfactorily smooth down the highway but your castor angle will be too little. In my case, with the 4” castor plates and 5”-5.5” lift, my castor was 0.5*. Going to the 6” delta arms has my castor just a bit more than 5* but the relationship between the front pinion and driveline is not “ideal” for a DC shaft. The solution is a part time kit and for more reasons than driveline vibes on a rig you beat on off-road in remote areas. If you are handy with sheet metal work you can cut the fenders to be able to accommodate larger tires on less lift. I can think of a handful of 80 owners running 37”-40” tires on less than 4” of lift but the sheet metal work to do it right (subjective) was very extensive.

This is a game of experimentation for the owner and his rig. What I think is working great for me might not be any good at all in your opinion. Experimentation does cost time and money. Welcome to the game….
 
The goodies keep rolling in! Thanks to Mill Creek Overland for hooking it up. Slinky Icon Stage 4 shocks… yummy!

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Replaced my OEM steering stabilizer today with a new unit from Ironman 4x4.
New
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Old
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The tool that made it a one 🍌 job.
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Also replaced the cab and door side weather stripping on the passenger side. Mine was all chewed up for some reason.
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Replaced that heinous pop top radiator cap with an OE one. Whew... now I can finally breathe easy! Also attended the Pacific Mountain Cruisers annual Show n Swap. Scored a built T case off a member at a great price. Has the part time spool, Marlin Crawler Low range gears, Sumo 10% Overdrive kit and all new bearings installed. AND... I won the HiLift in the raffle! Great day all around!

My HD extended Lower control arms from Landtank came in, so I've finally got all the pieces I need to do my lift. Caster correction has not been addressed, but I plan to lift first, get accurate numbers, then correct as needed. Waiting for my buddy's lift to become available in his shop then its go-time.

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Quick opinion request... getting set to do
My lift, and I've got a pair of the under frame mount rear sway bar drop brackets that came with my slinky kit. Problem is... I've got the 1994 flat side mounted sway bar attachment. Is it worth adding nutserts and swapping the end links to run the under frame drop? Or just drill a few holes in a piece of flat stock and mount it? Or full rear sway bar delete mod? Chime in!
 
Looking pretty tight on clearance on the rears... wheels are 17x8.5 and ET0. This pic is at ride height, there's about an inch, maybe 1.5" of room. When it's drooped, the bulge of the tire is closer to the panhard bracket and is nearly rubbing. Anybody dealt with this? I have a pair of spidertraxx 1.25" spacers, but if I kick the wheels out wider then they'll definitely eat the fenders when stuffed... thoughts?
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So... after a few hours of reading through the @Delta VS radius arms threads, I've decided this is the most definitive collection of data I've found.

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If these numbers are correct... then unfortunately I'm smack in the middle of a 3L and 5L.

Sitting at -5* after the lift, I'd be at +5.1* after the 5L arms, and +1.4* after the 3L arms.

Given what I've read, I would tend to think I'd be better off with more caster than less, especially because I'm installing a part time kit after I fix caster.

However... my lift has just been installed, and I'm planning on adding a front bumper and winch. I imagine it'll settle a bit after that...

Please point me in the right direction! 3L or 5L?
 
So... after a few hours of reading through the @Delta VS radius arms threads, I've decided this is the most definitive collection of data I've found.

View attachment 3537272

If these numbers are correct... then unfortunately I'm smack in the middle of a 3L and 5L.

Sitting at -5* after the lift, I'd be at +5.1* after the 5L arms, and +1.4* after the 3L arms.

Given what I've read, I would tend to think I'd be better off with more caster than less, especially because I'm installing a part time kit after I fix caster.

However... my lift has just been installed, and I'm planning on adding a front bumper and winch. I imagine it'll settle a bit after that...

Please point me in the right direction! 3L or 5L?
Finishing set up rig THEN address caster, best option.
 
Finishing set up rig THEN address caster, best option.
Great suggestion... but I'm not going to be able to pull that off. It's virtually undriveable at this current level of caster. Can't afford a new bumper and winch AND arms right now. I could possibly mimic the weight of a bumper and winch... hang a few hundred pounds off the front crossmember... or sit on the hood while it's on the alignment rack.
 

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