Builds Honu. A build thread. (3 Viewers)

[FFDawson]

Got the rear diff installed today. But when going to reinstall the axles, I'm running into difficulty.

Rear Elocker, I locked it prior to pulling the axles.
4.88's installed.
When re-installing axles, the drivers side is seated most of the way, only about 3/4" left to go. Passenger side is stuck about 2.5" out. I rotated the pinion flange a few times, but no luck yet.

I've read through a few threads but most of them point to the diff being unlocked when axles were pulled. Mine was definitely locked.

Any suggestions?
Passenger

Driver

 

[FFDawson]

Managed to get my axles in without too much trouble. Just a little manipulation and they slid in nicely.

Installed the 3rds and was feeling pretty damn good until I went to torque the nuts on the front diff...

Guess I'll be sourcing a diff stud kit. And probably have to yank the whole thing out again to reset them. Ugh.

 

[NorthWA]

A good option

High Strength 8" Diff stud kit

This is a class 10.9 stud kit for the 8" diffs. This kit replaces the studs and the nuts lock washer set up with a serrated flange nut. On an open diff there will be 1 nut left over. On an E-Locker diff there will be 1 stud left over and you will reuse the two longer factory studs. This kit...

landtankproducts.com

 

[FFDawson]

A good option

High Strength 8" Diff stud kit

This is a class 10.9 stud kit for the 8" diffs. This kit replaces the studs and the nuts lock washer set up with a serrated flange nut. On an open diff there will be 1 nut left over. On an E-Locker diff there will be 1 stud left over and you will reuse the two longer factory studs. This kit...

landtankproducts.com

Yes! Thank you. I have his knuckle stud kit, very stout. Definitely going this route.

 

[ppc]

@FFDawson ,
Welding a nut to the remainder of that nut, should be very easy, and then back it out.

 

[FFDawson]

All better... waiting on my LandTank stud kit.

 

[FFDawson]

Pulling the T case today and two of the bolts are quite a pain! Spent 3 minutes getting 4 bolts out, and the next 3 hours fighting the last two.

Summoned the Mud and learned I need to drop the trans support to lower the whole thing a few inches. Hopefully that does the trick. Headed back out to take another swing at it.

Edit: Definitely recommend dropping the trans crossmember. Huge help. Also a wobble extension helped get my final bolt free (rear facing on the upper front side of the case)

Also check out my sweet tcase jack attachment. Fabricated out of some nice plywood and some scraps. It worked like a charm!

 

[FFDawson]

Out with the old... and in with the new.

New case is part time spooled, and has the sumo gears 10% overdrive and 3:1 low range installed. As well as all new bearings and seals from Cruiser Outfitters.

Got rear driveshaft bolted up... just waiting for the new front diff stud kit then I should be on the final stretch!

 

[FMC80]

Doing a lot of work! Looking good man.

 

[FFDawson]

Doing a lot of work! Looking good man.

Thanks dude! It's coming along!

 

[FFDawson]

Goodby ABS, LSPV. Man that feels good.

 

[FFDawson]

More progress today. RVC's in finally! Spindles and seals too.

 

[FFDawson]

Getting closer to trail ready! Today's work included @TRAIL TAILOR abs delete plugs, mounting the hubs with fresh races and bearings, new powerstop rotors, Aisin manual locking hubs. Tie rod and drag link aluminum 7075 by OCD. New 555 tre's from @cruiseroutfit
Also got the front driveshaft put in.

Next up is finish the brakes, tighten everything down and fire her up!

When it comes to replacing the tie rod/ drag link... someone help me out here. I measured the length of my old drag link and set my new one to that (50")
My old tie rod is bent to s*** so that measurement is useless... however, as long as the drag link is set properly the alignment should be relatively good? (Enough to drive the 5 miles to alignment shop?) or am I way off? And since the OVD tubes are threaded like OEM I just want to make sure there's equal amount of thread showing on either sides TRE to allow for maximum adjustment at the shop?

Feel free to chime in if I'm missing something.

 

[FFDawson]

Got the calipers on, the brake lines all buttoned up, and gear oil in the diffs and t case. Also finally removed the last of the ABS wiring junk. All that's left is to tighten up the nuts on the steering linkage and bleed the brakes...

 

[FFDawson]

Just a little teaser here!! @Bellfab bumper arrived! And it's a thing of beauty. I have the wings too, just need to make some room on the AC condenser side.

 

[FFDawson]

Time to decide how to coat the bumper... My standard go-to for armor over the years is 2 coats of self etching primer and a few cans of textured black bedliner. It holds up good, and is simple to retouch. My only armor on the rig so far (sliders) has this treatment. But this bumper is such a beautiful piece I'm considering other options...

1. Traditional Method: (textured black coating)
2. Bronze to match the wheels?
3. Gunmetal gray just because it's cool
4. Clearcoat to show off the gorgeous metalwork
5. Powdercoat (any of the colors above)

 

[ikarus]

Tough call. It does look great raw, but I think I would go function over form on a bumper for easy touch-up down the road.

 

[FMC80]

Tough call. It does look great raw, but I think I would go function over form on a bumper for easy touch-up down the road.

I’m with Ikarus, though I’d hate to cover that beautiful work with textured black coating. I’d probably go powdercoat gunmetal gray. Definitely not bronze imo.

 

[HuyFZJ80]

Just read through your build. Beautifully done!

 

[FFDawson]

Tough call. It does look great raw, but I think I would go function over form on a bumper for easy touch-up down the road.

I’m with Ikarus, though I’d hate to cover that beautiful work with textured black coating. I’d probably go powdercoat gunmetal gray. Definitely not bronze imo.

Good call. Going to swing by a local PC shop and get a quote. If the weather was better I'd probably just have sprayed it by now...

Gray would look pretty rad.