Builds Honey Badger Build Thread (9 Viewers)

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Can you do a review of the EBC green disc brake pads? Do you use them front and rear? Do you use 80 vs the larger 100 series front pads? How do they compare to OEM pads?

Yeah i use them front and rear - for me it was a very noticable difference when i went from OEM 80 series pads/oem rotors to EBC/ oem rotors. They tend to wear out pretty fast but worth it for the increase in braking power imo
 
been a long time.....

Mounted up the slee rear basket

Installed 2 key switches to be able to turn the fridge and water pump on/of without pulling the fuses - so apparently according to isotherm you shouldn’t turn the fridge on and off using thermostat in the fridge....go figure.

installed a quick connext for solar pane wiring.

also - mounted a water pump to feed a camplux water propane heater to be able to have hot showers ‘out there’


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water heater - will post photo of shower mount and pump quick mount soon

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New front and rear pads at 232k.

Time to Regear to 4.88 - running 35’s - any heads up on mud vendors I can support I’d appreciate the link - haven’t got into the research side of things yet.
I have a local shop to do the work in SoCal (Orange County) - alway like pushing money to mud vendors if possible though!

Photo from recent trip!
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New shoes!
Tires got expensive!
Bf Goodrich KO2

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Well it’s been a while but some new toys!

Time will tell on the induction setup with 200Amp setup - likely will need double current 200W solar setup but let’s see!
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Eventually regeared to 488’s in summer 2022 for proper fit with 35’s and also finally got one of these below - February ish 2023 - no more driveline growl

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needs a new home if any mudders interested!

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I thought the DC was supposed to go at the Transfer Case end. Or doesn't it matter?
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
You are correct. The slip joint is supposed to be towards the 3rd member in the front.
Hmmmm - that is in the works…. I did this after I regeared - growl and vibrations that were there after I switched to 35’s got so much worse……now totally gone after this……The u joints that were in this were only a few years old.
Kinda at the limit of my knowledge on the mechanics when I got this done - will consult here in future as I used too first…. But the car drives orders of magnitude better so 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
from shaky mirror to shaky entire wing mirror - fixed!

Thanks to this thread below….

Saved me 500 if bought new…


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Replaced fusible links hoping this solves battery drain issue, trying a 3D printed fix for shaky mirror syndrome and and replaced tire swing out carrier bearings
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Big fan of the induction stove over propane.

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New year somewhere special!
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Getting tired of the beat up look specifically the fender flare holes - I’m thinking metallic tape (well redoing the existing metallic tape) and black bedliner/monster liner to cover that…… anyone done this have any advice?
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I have an induction range at home but I never saw a mobile induction cook stove. Nice? Chicks dig the beat up look but those flare holes do kill it…. I used aluminum tape to cover the holes before l Monstalined my previous 80. I could notice the tape once finished but no one else ever pointed it out.
 
I have an induction range at home but I never saw a mobile induction cook stove. Nice? Chicks dig the beat up look but those flare holes do kill it…. I used aluminum tape to cover the holes before l Monstalined my previous 80. I could notice the tape once finished but no one else ever pointed it out.
I haven’t used the induction stove too much but it works great with cast iron and so far i don’t think I want to do back to propane - nice to have that as a backup though…

I think I’m gonna monsterline in black the lower 6 or so inches of where the fender flares used to be and the lower 6 inches linking the front and rear… seen a few folk do that - looks decent….
 
Spent a while troubleshooting my rear marine fridge - was freezing everything - ended up installing new thermostat and then new control box ($$$) - only together did I manage to get back to it acting like a fridge - these little govee sensors are really neat - size of a garage clicker- just leave them in the fridges and you can set an alarm if it deviates from set temps - 13 bucks!

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also ordered the Kuat pivot v2 - want a set up to be able to leave bike carrier on and swing out the way - im about 1 inche away from not needed to tilt the bike down to swing out and away and lock the tire carrier into the open position....

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question for the mud folk - I have a Speski cargo barrier - love it - I also have a rear shelf build.
I'm soon to be taking a 2-3 month long trip and have debated RTT v sleeping in cruiser - when I sleep in the truck I have to undo the bottom 2 bolts and loosen the top 2 and swing the barrier up and out the way to be able to sleep in the back - this gives me the clearance to sleep comfortably.
I'm a little flummoxed (a word not used nearly enough!!) to be able to do this quicker and more efficiently - its a little bit of a pain but im not seeing a way around this to also keep the safety of the barrier........
if I had 3 more inches of clearance I could make it work to not have the hassle to do this every time I sleep after moving........ thoughts?
 
so getting around to taking care of a largely neglected truck for the past few years in prep for a 5000 mile road trip in September - @Rusty Marlin and @OffRoadScott you both mentioned the DC should have bene oriented to the transfer case and checking out this video as well below it seems that might be the case - this is beyond my mechanical knowledge (and still learning here) but as i'm understanding it the greatest variation of angle (and then driveline growl noise culprit) is at the TC - so thats where the DC should located - slip joint should be oriented towards the front diff in this picture....

So hopefully this is a simple shop fix.......

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Yes, just flip that driveline end for end and bolt it back on. It runs best when there is a 90 degree angle formed between the driveline tube and differential companion flange. 1 degree of deviation is usually not a problem. If this be the case at the differential end then the DC joint will automatically split the angle at the transfer case end perfectly between its two U-joints allowing the shaft to spin free of vibrations.
 
Yes, just flip that driveline end for end and bolt it back on. It runs best when there is a 90 degree angle formed between the driveline tube and differential companion flange. 1 degree of deviation is usually not a problem. If this be the case at the differential end then the DC joint will automatically split the angle at the transfer case end perfectly between its two U-joints allowing the shaft to spin free of vibrations.
so something I can do myself? looks pretty straight forward if so?
 

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