HJ47 12HT changed plan to FJ62 12HT (2 Viewers)

[koxfarm]

About the piston rings.. First of all the three reputable rings that sould be used in a 12HT are TP/NPR/RIK.
Attached the TP and NPR catalogs showing both the 2H and the 12HT rings.
In Australia the main importer
only brings the 2H rings TP 35856 or NPR SDT10107ZX therefore most (all) vendors sell them as suitable part for both models. W R O N G practice!!
The NPR number is actually the forklift version 2H.. so how many guys running 20psi and above turbo boost 12HT engines on forklift piston rings ????????

Take a look the attached TP and NPR catalogs and see that these are not only separate parts with separate numbers but also they have different sizes and most importantly the material they are made is different. The 12HT needs Cr (chrome) made alloys!
I raised my corncerns and noone seemed to understand,, they say noone ever complained mate, its fine..

Well for me its not fine. So I will get the correct TP (oem supplier for Toyota) part no.35886 in my 12HT engine.

 

[Indestructible 47]

hey buddy,

it's great to see another aussie doing great cruiser work, i particularly love that 47 ute that you are building. i could only hope to do work as good as yours. i did have to ask though, in the first pic i saw that you had the factory bumper on the 47, and in the rest a big bullbar. can i ask which you are going to run with? it's that if you was thinking of running the stocker and the other bar was gathering dust.... i would be very interested.

also, i noticed that you are going to put a 5-speed into the 47. have you figured out how you are going to do this? my 12ht is bolted to the 4-speed atm, and i have a 5-speed out of a 60 ready to drop in. from what i can work out is that there are 2 ways to do it. either find a lx 5-speed (i can't find one) or mod the trans tunnel. what are you thoughts as they stand? if there is anything that i could help you with, please sing out, i'd love to help. cheers

 

[koxfarm]

hey buddy,

it's great to see another aussie doing great cruiser work, i particularly love that 47 ute that you are building. i could only hope to do work as good as yours. i did have to ask though, in the first pic i saw that you had the factory bumper on the 47, and in the rest a big bullbar. can i ask which you are going to run with? it's that if you was thinking of running the stocker and the other bar was gathering dust.... i would be very interested.

also, i noticed that you are going to put a 5-speed into the 47. have you figured out how you are going to do this? my 12ht is bolted to the 4-speed atm, and i have a 5-speed out of a 60 ready to drop in. from what i can work out is that there are 2 ways to do it. either find a lx 5-speed (i can't find one) or mod the trans tunnel. what are you thoughts as they stand? if there is anything that i could help you with, please sing out, i'd love to help. cheers

Thanks for the kind words mate! Sure, I really try my best here, however it is not goung to be a historically correct truck.
I will bring all years and all models and all sort of things making me a fine suitable dd.. for a very long time hopefully.

Front bar: stock as on pic. The white one was the original as per PO. I have donated to a friend who put it up in his workshop as wall decor.

You need to get rid of the 4sp at least behind the 12HT you really need to run the h55f.
You can use the same bellhouse as the 5spd came off the 60’ to mate with the engine. All you need to do or get someone to do is to change the transfer output shaft and get rid of the hyraulic shifter and get it all manual.
For doing rhis properly you’ll need a fair bit of parts and think about how do you want your parking brake. Behind the tranny on the driveshaft (you can use the parking brake drum assy from your 4spd tranny) all you need is to add a short output shaft and a new bearing/seal. Or you can have a 60’ series or LX40 style rear drum handbrake.
Neither is a best/worst scenario its your choice as both options have pros and cons. I run the drive shaft brake.
One more issue although this and the previous one too had been both discussed is to shorten the driveshafts to suit your new 5sp.

The 5 speed is about 4” longer compared to the 4speed in there before and that throws everything forwards or backwards. The shifter leaver is therefore positioned about 2” towards the rear. That change in pos is within the shifter leaver cover so you not need to cut your floor at all.
If you have a bench seat its probably not so confortable for the middle passenger, but if you only have two front seats then the new leaver position is actually more closer to the driver. Lastly, you can chase for a 40’ series h55f fop cover to swap the 60’ series 5speed box top and to get the shifter to the correct 40’ series position. Those covers are very rare and very expensive. Ie: a 60’ series box is $500-1000 and a 40’ is 2-4k the difference is the top cover
Hope all this is helpful..

 

[Indestructible 47]

thanks heaps. thats really helpful. i didn't realise that the 5-speed would fit in the trans tunnel with no modding. i will have to get the 5-speed in asap, because as you said it really does need that extra gear. for drive shafts, i will get some double Cardin custom ones as my current rear is badly out of balance and the uni's on the front are buggered. also, i want to use the 40 series shift stick, i reckon that i could just remove the 5-speed nob and put the 4-speed one in, any reason why not? as for the handbrake, i will put it on the rear axle. where we live is reasonably hilly and the old one on the back of the trans doesn't even look at it.

and btw, if you see another bar like that lying around, please drop me a bell. our area is loaded with skippys and wild deer.

thanks heaps for your help. cheers

 

[koxfarm]

Sandblasting all cast steel hanging parts..

 

[koxfarm]

I have taken the fuel pump/injectors and turbo for rebuild at MTQ. And after about two weeks what has arrived today
The pump and the injectors are done and all with denso parts for oem spec. The turbo due next week and not only complere overhaul but the delivery side will receive an oversize (high flow) billet wheel. So it will drive about 30% more air into the manifold. It is also precision balanced..etc. the fuel pump is also increased delivery by 10%. Its not a super increase of power but it will just deliver a healthy 10psi boost at the waste gate. They are super professional and really know about diesel injectors and turbos. Their main branch is in Queensland but they are at all state capitals is Aus. I went to the Perth branch and been looked after by Rowan the manager here. These guys are superstars.. and certainly are highly recommended. I will get my pyro and temp gauges from there too.

 

[koxfarm]

all cad the parts of the 12HT.. a beautiful chaos

 

[koxfarm]

Baking the ceramic VHT 3x30mins at 120-250-315C stinks like hell..

 

[Indestructible 47]

insane. awesome work, is that a 3 inch dump pipe?

 

[Pauciflora]

G'day koxfarm, Have you test fitted the style side tub onto the chassis? Depending on the year your tub was built you might have to modify the front mounts. I have an 1984 model truck and my tub was probably built in the '70's all the bolt holes line up except for the ones at the front next to the cab. Cheers, Ben

 

[koxfarm]

G'day koxfarm, Have you test fitted the style side tub onto the chassis? Depending on the year your tub was built you might have to modify the front mounts. I have an 1984 model truck and my tub was probably built in the '70's all the bolt holes line up except for the ones at the front next to the cab. Cheers, Ben

Thanks
There arn’t many late model stylesides around.. I think in those years 79’ onwards mostly cab chassis’s were imported to Aus due to cost economies and also people preferred the ute tray.
I have another 81’ FJ45 ute wreck that one for instance had the genuine toyoya flat tray (not the styleside) and the tubing is totally rusted.
Anyway, yes, on this one the mounts needs to be moved inwards about 1.5”.
I like your question as I was actually thinking of moving the chassis mount instead of the crossmember mount as the early mounts were sitting on the chassis (bearing load) while this late models are only rivered to the outside of the chassis. The old version seems to be much stronger (again) ... few more months and we come back to this issue

 

[koxfarm]

insane. awesome work, is that a 3 inch dump pipe?

Yeah grrrrrrr

 

[koxfarm]

I have made up my mind about the pistons and ordered the Teikin (Indonesia) made ones.
The other option was TIK (Taiwan) not that I have any concerns simply the importer in Vic took way too long to respond. The other guys (N*Power) from Qld are simply blocked my account on eBay for the arguments about the wrong rings they supply. NPR PISTON RING CHROME STD FOR TOYOTA 12H-T 4.0L TURBO Landcruiser HJ61 85-90 | eBay
Anyway, N*power sells the piston set over $400 and the TIK seemed too cheap at $270..
I have ordered my pistons and rings from Rebuild Engines, Car Spare Parts, Nissan Spare, Toyota Spare, Cylinder.. these are highly recommended very pro business and customer service. They will look after your enquiry and ship within the same day. I paid $330 for the pistons and got my rings there too shipped by fedex the same day. (Today)
Fyi Germany, these pistons are sold in EU 3x these prices!!

 

[koxfarm]

Finished coating and baking all the manifolds, oil cooler, etc hanging parts of the engine.
The gasket rings on the short part of the exhaust manifold gave me a bit of hard time.. it has consumed one of my not so favourite screwdriver.. it jad to be cherry red hot before it would move.. finally the screwdriver won.
I’ve got the oil cooler got soda blasted.. pretty good result.

 

[SNLC]

Nice work!! Nice shed!



Cheers

 

[koxfarm]

Some more aesthetics while the block is back from its hot acid bath, and the crankshaft is back from hard surface coating on the rear oil seal journal.

 

[2fpower]

I have been following your other thread for some time and once again your pictures on this project inspire me to do more and better on my projects. Thanks for taking the time to post.

Cheers,

 

[koxfarm]

Some more inspiration.. the engine block is back from acid bath. Since it’s all STD that is going back I only got the bores honed and the deck cleaned. I am planning to use KBS Ford light blue but first I get the block thoroughly washed.
The pistons I got are Teikin brand. That is an Indonesian OE manufacturer and just about the best you can get for the 12HT. Otherwise it was some no name chinese and another Taiwanese available in Australian vendors. I went with Teikin and much to my surprise it is really a nice quality piston. I have tweeked them with ceramic coating however and will be balanced too.

 

[koxfarm]

The crankshaft is finished HVOF processed at the rear oil seal journal. The coating is chrome-carbide 58-62HRC hardness and withstands 700-800C temperature. So its pretty much the best stuff you can get.
The reason for it is the rear oil seal was broken and cut a 2mm wide and 2mm deep groove on the shaft that had to be repaired. It has turned out excellent. The job was done by an expert shop that usually does mining equipement for BHP and others.
Interesting their shop ..when working on the parts of the giant CAT dump trucks. I have seen a 7tonne wheel bearing hub on the giant reamer ..

 

[koxfarm]

Giant machines..