HJ45 replacement seats vs Legroom. (2 Viewers)

[Joe45]

Howdy all.
Looking to replace the stock buckboard seats on my HJ45 pickup. Was looking at Scheel Mann and they said their seats have a thick backrest which may not give me enough legroom. I figure Recaros are the same.

Any suggestions?

I need a good seat for my lower back, so don't want something that I'll need morphine shots when I get out after a long trip (been there). The trip from Florida to North Carolina and then Arizona, funny enough, did not have any ill effects though, but I still want good seats.

My options, as far as I can tell are:

1. Extend the length of the cab by about 6-12". This would make me either shorten the bed by that much, or elongate the chassis. Since I want it to be a camper, I like the space in the long-bed area. I don;t want it to have a huge turning radius.
2. Buy an extended cab tub. Same as above.
3. Use the plastic racing seat style like from summit racing. Don't seem very comfortable for long drives.
4. Find seats from a nice car in a junkyard. Any car makes/models that have comfortable seats that won;t kill the leg room?

The driver seat is already against the wall but I'm fine. The pedals for the break and clutch are kind of high, but that's not too bad. I'm 5' 11". Man, just another even four inches back would be nice! But, again, extending the tub opens up other issues.

Also, I really like that big steering wheel and want to keep it, even when I put in power steering.
Looking forward to input.

Thank

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Joe, I was recently in a similar quandary, though my biggest issue was headroom. However, at 6’4”, legroom is almost always a concern for me as well.

I went with Scheel Mann seats. I was fortunate that a company in SLC is a Scheel Mann dealer, and they very graciously let me sit in a vehicle equipped with Scheel Mann seats. I did a fair amount of research online, and honestly I couldn’t find a bad word about them anywhere, though many folks expressed reservations at the more than substantial cost. One fellow, who was an automotive journalist with some unfortunate back issues, installed Scheel Mann seats in his Ford Excursion, and he was very positive about them. VERY.

I will say I was a bit surprised when I sat in them. When one thinks of “comfort” we usually think of softness and “cushiness”. Think of sitting in a Lincoln Town Car limousine; super-soft seats. You sit "in them" as opposed to "on them”. The Scheel Mann seats aren’t nearly so luxurious, so what’s so great about them? I think the answer is they seem to be almost infinitely adjustable to fit the idiosyncrasies of different people's physiques, and provide support accordingly. That support is what makes the difference on a long drive.

For a different project I was considering Corbeau seats. They have a distribution facility at the southern end of the Salt Lake valley and I went there and sat in a bunch of their seats. Before doing that I was leaning toward one model, and after putting my lard butt in the actual seats - I chose a different seat altogether. I also have a Polaris RZR and I replaced the stock seats with some Pro Armor seats. They’re definitely more comfortable, but they’re a suspension seat with a fixed back angle. It’s an apples-to-oranges comparison to the Scheel Mann seats. Often on a long drive it helps to change your sitting position a bit; maybe more upright for a while. Reclining seats allow that flexibility, and the Scheel Mann seats also allow you to adjust the seat to provide support in either the more upright or more reclined position.

My suggestion is to try and find a place where you can sit in the seats you’re considering, as opposed to reading other people’s viewpoints (like mine) that you read online. It’s your butt and your back that will determine the success or failure of your choice of seats.

 

[Joe45]

Joe, I was recently in a similar quandary, though my biggest issue was headroom. However, at 6’4”, legroom is almost always a concern for me as well.

I went with Scheel Mann seats. I was fortunate that a company in SLC is a Scheel Mann dealer, and they very graciously let me sit in a vehicle equipped with Scheel Mann seats. I did a fair amount of research online, and honestly I couldn’t find a bad word about them anywhere, though many folks expressed reservations at the more than substantial cost. One fellow, who was an automotive journalist with some unfortunate back issues, installed Scheel Mann seats in his Ford Excursion, and he was very positive about them. VERY.

I will say I was a bit surprised when I sat in them. When one thinks of “comfort” we usually think of softness and “cushiness”. Think of sitting in a Lincoln Town Car limousine; super-soft seats. You sit "in them" as opposed to "on them”. The Scheel Mann seats aren’t nearly so luxurious, so what’s so great about them? I think the answer is they seem to be almost infinitely adjustable to fit the idiosyncrasies of different people's physiques, and provide support accordingly. That support is what makes the difference on a long drive.

For a different project I was considering Corbeau seats. They have a distribution facility at the southern end of the Salt Lake valley and I went there and sat in a bunch of their seats. Before doing that I was leaning toward one model, and after putting my lard butt in the actual seats - I chose a different seat altogether. I also have a Polaris RZR and I replaced the stock seats with some Pro Armor seats. They’re definitely more comfortable, but they’re a suspension seat with a fixed back angle. It’s an apples-to-oranges comparison to the Scheel Mann seats. Often on a long drive it helps to change your sitting position a bit; maybe more upright for a while. Reclining seats allow that flexibility, and the Scheel Mann seats also allow you to adjust the seat to provide support in either the more upright or more reclined position.

My suggestion is to try and find a place where you can sit in the seats you’re considering, as opposed to reading other people’s viewpoints (like mine) that you read online. It’s your butt and your back that will determine the success or failure of your choice of seats.

Thanks for the input!

What vehicle was this on?

I'm sure I'd love them, and would be glad to try one out somewhere, but the thing is: there is no room to lean the seats back as its a two door pickup truck. For maximum leg room the stock bench on the driver side is right up against the backl. The rep at Sheel Mann said he didn't recommend them for that reason. I hope he's mistaken.

I think, if the break/clutch/accelerator pedals were a little closer to the HJ's floor/firewall, it would maybe help, but I don't know if that's doable. The other issue is the big steering wheel and it maybe preventing easy in/out with a thick seat. But I really, really, really like that large, skinny, old school look!

 

[Joe45]

One thing I think would help is a tilt steering column. Read somewhere someone used one from a manual mid 80s firebird.
If I can keep my current steering wheel, I’d be fine with that. Maybe move the ignition to the dash.
But mainly I’m hoping someone will chime in with solution ideas for the seat.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Joe,

I bought the Scheel Mann seats for an FJ40. The stock steering column has been replaced with one from an early seventies Corvette, which features tilt and telescopic functions. The late seventies Corvette steering columns have the headlight dimmer switch incorporated into the turn signal lever whereas the earlier versions use a foot actuated dimmer switch.

I would think with a little cutting and welding you could modify the brake and clutch pedal arms so the foot pads are closer to the firewall. You would lose pedal travel, but I would think with some adjustments that could work.

 

[Living in the Past]

Joe,

I bought the Scheel Mann seats for an FJ40. The stock steering column has been replaced with one from an early seventies Corvette, which features tilt and telescopic functions. The late seventies Corvette steering columns have the headlight dimmer switch incorporated into the turn signal lever whereas the earlier versions use a foot actuated dimmer switch.

I would think with a little cutting and welding you could modify the brake and clutch pedal arms so the foot pads are closer to the firewall. You would lose pedal travel, but I would think with some adjustments that could work.

Would have actually have to study the cab of a FJ45 to understand that comfortable seats in most cases leaves little leg room. Factory seats already rest on the back of the cab. Leg room is less than the FJ40.

 

[Joe45]

Would have actually have to study the cab of a FJ45 to understand that comfortable seats in most cases leaves little leg room. Factory seats already rest on the back of the cab. Leg room is less than the FJ40.

Joe,

I bought the Scheel Mann seats for an FJ40. The stock steering column has been replaced with one from an early seventies Corvette, which features tilt and telescopic functions. The late seventies Corvette steering columns have the headlight dimmer switch incorporated into the turn signal lever whereas the earlier versions use a foot actuated dimmer switch.

I would think with a little cutting and welding you could modify the brake and clutch pedal arms so the foot pads are closer to the firewall. You would lose pedal travel, but I would think with some adjustments that could work.

Joe,

I bought the Scheel Mann seats for an FJ40. The stock steering column has been replaced with one from an early seventies Corvette, which features tilt and telescopic functions. The late seventies Corvette steering columns have the headlight dimmer switch incorporated into the turn signal lever whereas the earlier versions use a foot actuated dimmer switch.

I would think with a little cutting and welding you could modify the brake and clutch pedal arms so the foot pads are closer to the firewall. You would lose pedal travel, but I would think with some adjustments that could work.

Yeah, with a 40 you have space behind you. In a 45 pickup, there's a point where the seat hits the wall. Mine is already there.
I think the main issue is the steering wheel though. Thinking a tilt steering column may correct that.

 

[Joe45]

Measured my OEM seat (driver side).

The Scheel Mann Vario F dimensions:

The Recaro Specialist dimensions:

Seems like the Recaro Specialist is a better fit.

 

[45Dougal]

How about a photo of your existing seats?

Mine also sits back against the rear bulkhead, but I find it just about right (I'm 5' 10"). Maybe mine is thinner at the back than yours?

I have a 120L long range tank under my seats though so my seat sits higher by around an inch.
This does make it a bit tighter against the steering wheel, but might give you a bit more leg length if the base isn't too thick

 

[Joe45]

How about a photo of your existing seats?

Here are photos of my seats.

From the measurements I took of the OEM seats as well as the online measurements of the Recaro & Scheel Mann, seems like the Recaro Specialist would work just fine. Again, a tilt steering column would probably solve the issue of ease of ingress/egress. The other issue is leg room. The Recaro Specialist seems to have the same depth as the OEM seats: question it how the overall thickness/depth of the seat will work with that back wall/bulkhead...

 

[Living in the Past]

Those factory seats are much better than my 65's seats which could possibly still have the original covers.

What have you done as far as heat? Not sure exactly your at in Northern Arizona but imagine you'll need heat.

 

[Joe45]

Those factory seats are much better than my 65's seats which could possibly still have the original covers.

What have you done as far as heat? Not sure exactly your at in Northern Arizona but imagine you'll need heat.

Funny enough, I had no issues with back pain or anything else during my trip; even after I drove 36 hours with no sleep. The bead "covers" made a huge difference!!!! However, still want good seat in there instead of those luxury buckboard seats.

I'm going to need some kind of heat, yes. We do get freezing and below freezing temperatures here, along with snow. Looking at options to connect to the vehicle's cooling system like the OEM system heater.

 

[Living in the Past]

I would be sure you check the antifreeze before it gets to freezing. I'm at close to 7000' and been in the low forties already. By the club on the steering wheel you park outside? My first home I owned was in Flagstaff. Garage was at the back of the property. Too much to shovel. So parked next to the house. After a decent snow storm temperature would drop below zero. Even with antifreeze would put a 100 watt light bulb under the hood over night. This would also help get the carburetor engine started in the morning. Sure that wouldn't hurt doing it with a diesel engine. Might be more of an issue since incandescent bulbs are now banded. An equivalent 100 watt LED won't cut it. Block heater might be an option. Never went that route and now keep everything parked in an insulated garage where it never reaches 32° on the coldest night.

 

[NYIronPig]

This should help you out!

Seats and steering column in a 45... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seats-and-steering-column-in-a-45.1190474/

 

[Joe45]

I would be sure you check the antifreeze before it gets to freezing. I'm at close to 7000' and been in the low forties already. By the club on the steering wheel you park outside? My first home I owned was in Flagstaff. Garage was at the back of the property. Too much to shovel. So parked next to the house. After a decent snow storm temperature would drop below zero. Even with antifreeze would put a 100 watt light bulb under the hood over night. This would also help get the carburetor engine started in the morning. Sure that wouldn't hurt doing it with a diesel engine. Might be more of an issue since incandescent bulbs are now banded. An equivalent 100 watt LED won't cut it. Block heater might be an option. Never went that route and now keep everything parked in an insulated garage where it never reaches 32° on the coldest night.

I think a heater may be the way to go. I had one of these in a Jeep and I think it'll work well for the HJ:
KatsHeaters 13100 Kat'S 13100 1000 Watt Aluminum Circulating Tank Heater - https://autoplicity.com/8953919-katsheaters-13100-circulation-tank-heater-thermostatically-controlled

I actually park it in the yard, just add the club as a little extra. When I go somewhere, I also use a steel bike cable around steering wheel and accelerator pedal with a lock.

Where do you live? I'm in Show Low, AZ. About 6,500 feet. Last couple of nights, with rain, the temperature has dropped into the mid/high 40s.

 

[Joe45]

This should help you out!

Seats and steering column in a 45... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seats-and-steering-column-in-a-45.1190474/

Wow!
Great!
Thank you!

I noticed a mention of the tall seat touching the rear glass, thus forcing them forward.
My idea has been to remove the rear glass for emergency access between the camper and cockpit. I was thinking of a flip-up hatch that opens back into the camper area. I could make the hatch concave, lets say like 4" in towards the back. This would allow the tall seat to sit further back maybe.

The Honda seats look promising! I had a 2020 Tacoma TRD Off Road (sold it) and the seats would hurt my back after a long drive. In contrast, the seats on my 2008 FJ Cruiser have kept me pretty comfortable on a 2,500 each way trip.

The part about the power steering swap answered another question, so thank you very much!!!

 

[45Dougal]

One thing we find frustrating with our camper arrangement is that you can't easily move from the front seats into the back. Our bulkhead is cut much lower so only stops the seat about 1/3 way down the back rather that at the head rest, but we've been considering whether we could remove more of it along with the middle seat.

I also don't get back ache from the seats despite them being basic - I think this is because it shakes like heck the whole time. The pickup springs on the back are a bit harder as I understand.

 

[JohnnyFish]

I'm 6'2" and hope to solve the same problem with 20 year old Porsche 911 seats mounted 1 1/2" higher than the stock seats. Can't go back as you've said without major surgery on the cab, but I'm hoping that going up a little will enable a tolerable seating position.

 

[Joe45]

One thing we find frustrating with our camper arrangement is that you can't easily move from the front seats into the back. Our bulkhead is cut much lower so only stops the seat about 1/3 way down the back rather that at the head rest, but we've been considering whether we could remove more of it along with the middle seat.

I also don't get back ache from the seats despite them being basic - I think this is because it shakes like heck the whole time. The pickup springs on the back are a bit harder as I understand.

I'm 6'2" and hope to solve the same problem with 20 year old Porsche 911 seats mounted 1 1/2" higher than the stock seats. Can't go back as you've said without major surgery on the cab, but I'm hoping that going up a little will enable a tolerable seating position.

I was somewhat frustrated by the idea of not being easily able to get between the cab and box. But I realized that it still wouldn't be easy even with a Troopy, because I plan on a console fridge between the seats, as well as other things back there which would make it a pain to move through. I find this to be the case even in a modern van, as I would still have to navigate getting around the steering wheel, over the center console/fridge, while climbing over the seats. I figure the only time I'd use that window opening is in an emergency and going from the camper to the cab.
Even then, it better be a real, massive emergency to warrant not getting out to collect my camp and close the awning (and then tearing it apart driving).

 

[45Dougal]

I think you really need to ask whether you plan to join the camper back to the front cab - mine are welded together to form a single camper body.

Next up is whether you'll fit a side door in the camper. Having everything accessible only via the back door is constraining.