refer to post 130
High steer, slee vs hellfire, Hydro assist. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wermz
- Start date
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How do you like your set up, do you feel there are big gains going three link on OEM spring set up ? was worth it. How does it drive on the street.
Anything you would change ?
I love the 3link hands down. The 3 link gives me full control on adjustments i my garage.
The ride is as good or better than the stock set up.
Travel is a 9+ over the stock.
Ground clearance is awesome, no under axle hang ups.
Worth every penny and Time I put in.
Only thing I would change is, going to Coil overs,ONLY for room to do Pan hard/other bracketry.
The ride is as good or better than the stock set up.
Travel is a 9+ over the stock.
Ground clearance is awesome, no under axle hang ups.
Worth every penny and Time I put in.
Only thing I would change is, going to Coil overs,ONLY for room to do Pan hard/other bracketry.
Thanks for the feedback.
I like to wheel with you sometimes.
Always up for a trail run !!
Snow tomorrow and Tuesday?
Placerville.
3-5 feet
Placerville.
3-5 feet
It’s a lot of work and I’ve been getting alot of help from friends. It’ll be awesome when it’s all done. But I genuinely think that the front end needs to be a complete project if you don’t want to be disappointed
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I just looked at your set up. I definitely explored that option. I’d get into the oil pan at ride height. I was told that I needed to match the 3 degree slope of the drag link and the axle side mount had to be a bit higher than yours. I also think my ride height is substantially lower than yours
Never mind. I got mad and bought coilovers…
Update: the funny little panhard is in. The car doesn’t have any noticeable bump steer on the street, turns out math is real. The tie rod needed a little bend in it to move around the diff, it has about 1/8” of clearance now
Overall, it works fine, but it’s not a good set up. I have about 2-3” of uptravel until the joint smashes into the frame.
I’m on a time crunch to get ready for a trip, so this as good as it’s ganna get until spring.
Overall, it works fine, but it’s not a good set up. I have about 2-3” of uptravel until the joint smashes into the frame.
I’m on a time crunch to get ready for a trip, so this as good as it’s ganna get until spring.
If anybody’s wondering, for the most part, the mini panhard worked great. It drove the 650 miles to Utah just fine. It hit whoop sections and didn’t give any more feedback into the wheel than the stock set up. My only gripe is the lack of uptravel. It’s about 3.5” or something until the panhard joint hits the frame. I’d be a lot better with shocks tuned with that amount of uptravel in mind. Oh, and I absolutely have a dent in my frame because I under shot how much the timbrens compress. It’s advertised at 1.5” if I’m remembering right. I probably should’ve accounted for like 2.25”.
It’s still getting cut out soon
It’s still getting cut out soon
I'm debating between the Hellfire knuckles vs the Front Range keyed knuckles. It seems like @Squeegee has some slightly negative feedback about them from what I read but that was only regarding the unfinished machining process and lack of space with stock coils. Any issues with hardware coming loose or sheering?
Just saw your PM, was going to reply with a link to this thread as there's a lot of good info here. As to your question, if I were to start all over I would still choose HellFire as I believe they are a superior design over Front Range. I have the original before RuffStuff took over and have been running them since 2015. Never had any fasteners loosen up. And RuffStuff has improved a few things vs when Billy was selling them on Pirate.
If you look at them side by side, HellFire adds a lot more material where it counts, up top where the steering arm attaches. I also prefer the 6 vs 4 mounting studs.
I appreciate it. I did some research but it's good to have an informative opinion such as yours. Purchasing the Hellfire knuckles as we type.
No issues with the robustness of the knuckles. Just picky stuff on the QC and finishing. I just tell people to get hellfires at this point though. You get find 10% off ruffstuff coupons online and you can get them cheaper, or wait for blackfriday, ruffstuff did a pretty good deal on them last year.
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Well since you have already made your purchase, I won't put my two cents in.
You gave it less then a hour
You gave it less then a hour
$.02 is always appreciated, I can always cancel my order but I'm all ears if you have burning info about why the HF knuckles won't manageWell since you have already made your purchase, I won't put my two cents in.
You gave it less then a hour
They will manage just fine.
I just have a different opinion then others.
A keyed steering arm is much stronger therefore you don’t need all the extra material around the bolts and why you don’t need six bolts.
With the keyed style the bolts only hold the steering arm down they are not there to resist sheer, if the bolts are resisting sheer they need more material around them and more bolts are better.
I personally think the keyed system is stronger and I prefer them.
I would also be interested in what you’re trying to accomplish.
IMHO if you’re not doing a three link I think it’s best to leave the steering in the back.
I just have a different opinion then others.
A keyed steering arm is much stronger therefore you don’t need all the extra material around the bolts and why you don’t need six bolts.
With the keyed style the bolts only hold the steering arm down they are not there to resist sheer, if the bolts are resisting sheer they need more material around them and more bolts are better.
I personally think the keyed system is stronger and I prefer them.
I would also be interested in what you’re trying to accomplish.
IMHO if you’re not doing a three link I think it’s best to leave the steering in the back.
I do appreciate your input. I'm curious about their machining process. How tight is the tolerance of the "keyed" feature. If there is any play, then I'd suspect loose steering arm studs (eventually). From their website, "Since there is still some load on the steering studs, the kit is supplied with a set or our famous black ARP steering knuckle studs!" So in my mind, I'd rather have 6 studs over 4. Similar to why people like the 6 shooters from TG.
I also like the preload set screw feature over the shims.
I didn't get a chance to run through your almost 60 page build thread but I'm piecing through it now. Have you had any issues with the machining/tolerances of your steer arms? (I'm assuming you have the Front Range kit?)
I feel like the Hellfires are tried and true. Not to say the Front Range arms won't be. Time will tell, and if I have issue with the hellfires, I'll swap to the Front Range arms.
This is actually for my 100 series SAS, diamond housing, 9.5" 3rd, 3 link, coilovers, the works. I'm in the process of collecting parts. Hoping to cut the car up late Nov once everything is ordered.
No I’m not running them.
But my best friend and wheeling buddy has them and sold his hellfire’s to get them.
I don’t think you will have any issues with the hellfires there both good, it just comes down to personal preference.
Do you have to run custom axles with the 9.5 3rd and diamond housing ?
Is it a OEM E locker ?
But my best friend and wheeling buddy has them and sold his hellfire’s to get them.
I don’t think you will have any issues with the hellfires there both good, it just comes down to personal preference.
Do you have to run custom axles with the 9.5 3rd and diamond housing ?
Is it a OEM E locker ?
Luckily resale is always an option if I figure I don't like them.
Yes, I'm in the process of having some built by RCV. Not sure if I should run the 300M upgrade or not. 30 spline all the way through though. The axle will be approximately 69" WMS to WMS to match the 100 rear width. Stock rear SF 9.5" for now. Might upgrade in the future.
I'm considering the Harrop e-locker over the ARB air. I've had the ARB air before without issue but I think for simplicity sake, the electromagnet makes more sense than having the possibility of a leaking airline.
