10/'79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OhioFJ
- Start date
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Ari, was that Center?
- Thread starter
- #44
I ended up taking it to a place on the west side of town on Lorain Ave. Just a bit closer to me.
Elite Automotive and Machine
I’ll keep that one in mind just in case.
I have used a short chunk of 4" PVC pipe as a seal driver. A small piece of wood across it to hammer on.
- Thread starter
- #47
Nice, thank you
Yes, this. I have a 72 I tried to do it without the double seal and it still leaked.
this part makes it not leak and you have a way better shot of getting your parking brake to work. Valley Hybrids is easy to work with quick shipping. you send your old one back and they give you a super fast refund for the core.
I’m guessing it’s not expensive, but do you always have the fly wheel machined when you change the clutch?
Do you have to buy a different clutch or anything once you have the fly wheel machined? I need to take mine apart to do a rear main seal so probably will do a new clutch, etc. while I’m in there.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
I’d recommend refinishing the flywheel. IIRC there is a spec for the minimum thickness of the raised section. As long as you meet that you’re fine. Any quality Aisin clutch kit for your model 40 is fine. It’s a big job, not hard but definitely go after everything you can while it’s torn apart.
- Thread starter
- #51
Wrestled the beast out from under the truck.
My jack does not go low enough and I’m not lifted high enough to just pull it out on the jack. Had to lower it with a block and tackle though the inside of the cab and pull it out on a tarp. Got it back up on the jack for clean up.
My jack does not go low enough and I’m not lifted high enough to just pull it out on the jack. Had to lower it with a block and tackle though the inside of the cab and pull it out on a tarp. Got it back up on the jack for clean up.
Glutton for punishment.
Not a bad idea, but unless one is loosing fluid into the other, I’d not do it now (personally).
- Thread starter
- #54
It is unfortunately. I have a bypass hose on there. Figured I might as well fix the problem since I’m this far down the rabbit hole.Glutton for punishment.
Not a bad idea, but unless one is loosing fluid into the other, I’d not do it now (personally).
- Thread starter
- #55
While waiting on some parts I started to tackle to oil pain gasket.
Used the bottle jack btwn the frame and block of wood to dislodge the pan. Took some force but eventually popped.
A heat gun made short work of the old gasket, pretty much peeled off in one piece.
Used some 3M general adhesive remover I had and some non-marring gasket scrapers and the edge cleaned up well. Didn't take too long.
I think one corner is slightly bent. Will assess tomorrow and try and tackle the rear main seal.
Used the bottle jack btwn the frame and block of wood to dislodge the pan. Took some force but eventually popped.
A heat gun made short work of the old gasket, pretty much peeled off in one piece.
Used some 3M general adhesive remover I had and some non-marring gasket scrapers and the edge cleaned up well. Didn't take too long.
I think one corner is slightly bent. Will assess tomorrow and try and tackle the rear main seal.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I have never had a cruiser oil pan gasket come off that easily. I’ll be doing it this week so I’ll use even more heat gun.
I was amazed how easy it was to spin the flywheel by just turning it with two hands. I started out with the screwdriver but got impatient.
- Thread starter
- #58
Separated transfer and transmission with the help of a borrowed puller. Output splines from the transmission look ok overall.
Neat hidden dragonfly print on the old paper gasket.
Question - I have a new gasket kit. Is it advisable to add some FIPG on either side of the gasket upon reassembly? I have some of this:
Neat hidden dragonfly print on the old paper gasket.
Question - I have a new gasket kit. Is it advisable to add some FIPG on either side of the gasket upon reassembly? I have some of this:
- Thread starter
- #60
Starting to get things back together.
Oil pan back on using the method @Poser wrote about + some snap ups.
Got the old pilot bearing out using some bread (thanks @Jdc1). Polished the input shaft with some emery paper and installed the new bearing using the old bearing as a driver.
I cut some 12x1.25 threaded rod to use as a guide while reassembling the transfer case to the tranny. Installed and greased a new rear main seal. Smeared some FIPG on either side of the gasket.
Oil pan back on using the method @Poser wrote about + some snap ups.
Got the old pilot bearing out using some bread (thanks @Jdc1). Polished the input shaft with some emery paper and installed the new bearing using the old bearing as a driver.
I cut some 12x1.25 threaded rod to use as a guide while reassembling the transfer case to the tranny. Installed and greased a new rear main seal. Smeared some FIPG on either side of the gasket.
