Hmmm, possible, but it's a long ass drive from So Cal.
Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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Hmmm, possible, but it's a long ass drive from So Cal.
i need to run better bump stops. did spider monkey do the rears as well? i may have missed the rear bumpstop build. is it the same as the front? How are the spacers mounted to bump stop to frame? does spider monkey sell this?
- Thread starter
- #385
the bumpstops are factory and in the factory position. in the front i am running a 2" spring perch spacer i made and a 2" slee bump stop spacer under the rubber bump stop. spider monkey made me the 2" solid aluminum spacer i am running on the axle side spring perch. for a total of 6" of bump spacers. spider will gladly make you spacers if you want them but slee already makes front spacers and you arn't getting them cheaper than slee. note that the spacer I am running if front is not needed as the 42's fit fine without them. the only reason i added the extra 2" spacer while in utah is because the shocks are a little to long when compressed and botom out before the spacer hits. i need to extend the spring perch a little and then will remove the spacers.
the rear 3" solid spacer is not a slee part but should be. I believe a 4" spacer would be better for a 4" lift spring as the rear bumps compress so much and allow the rear tires to rub much in the wheelwells. a 3" spacer would be great for a 37" tire. the rear spacers bolt in place under the factory bump with a 45mm long 8mm bolt. slee should sell rear spring bump extenders instead of the frame bump extenders. the spring bump extenders are so much better/softer than the frame bumps and are getting wasted and doing nothing once the truck is lifted
that scout is trick. 4link rear and 3 link front. d60-14bolt/arbs/chromos/ctm's/coilover/stak 3 speed/42's/caged/half doors/IH rebuild v8
but with a broken hub its only a 3 wheeler
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kling-on
Kool Arrow
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thats BAD A$$ great work .. 
Dusty,
appreciate the info on the bumpstops. much needed. will need to check out slee for bumpstop extensions.
appreciate the info on the bumpstops. much needed. will need to check out slee for bumpstop extensions.
That is the badest 80 EVER!!!
Nice work Dusty!
Nice work Dusty!
- Thread starter
- #390
ok I pulled the front driveshaft and locked the center diff and now the vibration is gone. took her to 60mph with little drama-I could go it at this speed all day. (at leaste the spedo says 60 but i need to do the math to know if thats right)
when i built the front end i set the caster at 5 degres on the d60 and let the pinion fall where it may and bolted the driveshaft up. now she vibrates bad even at 10mph. and i lubed this shaft real well before bolting it to the truck.
the current set up places the d60 pinion facing several degrees below the tcase flange. also the dodge d60 is offset more than the toyota axle so that the front driveshaft is forced to point more to the pass side than on the toyota axle. 2 angles to deal with.
think a slee cv shaft might solve the problem?
note that the rear driveshaft which also has 2 angles (centered rear diff) gives no vibration at all. but with it i was able to match the tcase output angle to the d70 flange. if i do that with the front shaft i will lose my caster and get all squirly.
as i was removing the front driveshaft it fell on my head and cut me good. it needs a stitch but IH8 needles so im going to have a nasty scar. this 80 has left its mark---forever
a couple more pics of the scout
when i built the front end i set the caster at 5 degres on the d60 and let the pinion fall where it may and bolted the driveshaft up. now she vibrates bad even at 10mph. and i lubed this shaft real well before bolting it to the truck.
the current set up places the d60 pinion facing several degrees below the tcase flange. also the dodge d60 is offset more than the toyota axle so that the front driveshaft is forced to point more to the pass side than on the toyota axle. 2 angles to deal with.
think a slee cv shaft might solve the problem?
note that the rear driveshaft which also has 2 angles (centered rear diff) gives no vibration at all. but with it i was able to match the tcase output angle to the d70 flange. if i do that with the front shaft i will lose my caster and get all squirly.
as i was removing the front driveshaft it fell on my head and cut me good. it needs a stitch but IH8 needles so im going to have a nasty scar. this 80 has left its mark---forever
a couple more pics of the scout
If the flanges aren't parallel, it will vibrate. A CV shaft isn't appropriate unless the pinion flange is pointed at the tcase flange.
Offset side to side, within operating limits of the joints on the shaft, does not matter so long as the flanges are parallel. No different than the vertical offset we are used to. Ujoints can't "tell" a difference.
With a Toyota axle, the fix would be to cut n turn the knuckes so that the pinion flange was either parallel to, or pointed towards the tcase flange and then run the appropriate style dshaft. I'm not familiar enough with Ton's to know what most do in this situation, with that axle.
I did not want to deal with the front driveshaft vibe issues on my 80 the "proper" way (cut n turn), so I installed a part time kit. Granted my vibration was only noticeable above 50mph. Extra oomph around town and less wear on front end were definate plus's.
I know a lot of 80 series guys see the CV shafts as a "fix-all" for driveshaft vibes, and they may help, but properly setting pinion angle is a LOT cheaper, not to mention no plates, bushings, or arms are necessary for correcting caster when a cut n turn is performed.
Offset side to side, within operating limits of the joints on the shaft, does not matter so long as the flanges are parallel. No different than the vertical offset we are used to. Ujoints can't "tell" a difference.
With a Toyota axle, the fix would be to cut n turn the knuckes so that the pinion flange was either parallel to, or pointed towards the tcase flange and then run the appropriate style dshaft. I'm not familiar enough with Ton's to know what most do in this situation, with that axle.
I did not want to deal with the front driveshaft vibe issues on my 80 the "proper" way (cut n turn), so I installed a part time kit. Granted my vibration was only noticeable above 50mph. Extra oomph around town and less wear on front end were definate plus's.
I know a lot of 80 series guys see the CV shafts as a "fix-all" for driveshaft vibes, and they may help, but properly setting pinion angle is a LOT cheaper, not to mention no plates, bushings, or arms are necessary for correcting caster when a cut n turn is performed.
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- Thread starter
- #392
cut n turn is just too much work. sounds like i may just have to give up my castor in order to get the pinion angle down and paralel with the tcase
if i go with a part time kit and keep the full time flanges will i still get vibrations? the driveshaft will still be spinning. or will i need to get selectable hubs?
If you keep the drive flanges, you will get vibration. May not be as bad, may be worse, no way to know.
Maybe you mentioned it earlier, but is your pinion "above" or "below" parallel to the tcase flange?
If a cut n turn is too much work, the only options I see are to live with less caster, or install a part time 4wd kit and locking hubs.
Since you have hydro assist, you will avoid the worst potential side effect of low caster, death wobble. However, the truck won't have very much return to center between large tires, hydro assist and low caster.
- Thread starter
- #394
points below the tcase
will start with giving up caster and using the oe shaft. if that dont work will point the pinion at the tcase and get a cv shaft
if that not working will get a part time kit and some lockable hubs.
nothing that cant be fixed with money (sigh)
Good Luck!
Wait with your job you h8t needles? Nice job I saw your rig on the trailer w/ the dodge in town a few days ago. I am impressed.
- Thread starter
- #397
its off the trailer now. im trying to get the courage to drive it to the smog shop. ill get pulled over most likely
if the cops pull you over its because they want to check it out!! ...well if your lucky.
- Thread starter
- #400
whats "super easy" about a cut and turn?
