Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

[Dusty]

Here is another spot i am thinking of: I am thinking of doing a 3 link with trackbar in rear (just like front). the rear liks will be about 4 1/4 feet with the joints. I am planning on placing the frame side 3rd link (which will go to a tower just pass side lateral to the diff housing) on the pass side inner framrail just above the frame link mount which takes its link to the axle tube. (see pic)

My concern is that the oe trackbar mount (which I would like to keep) orriginates on the pass side frame and takes its link to the drivers side axle housing. any potential for bind like this? note that the rear driveshaft will be orriginating and running parelel to the 3rd link.

should I abandon the 3 link and go with a pair of rear radiur arms?

it is impossible to take a 3rd link from the drivers side as the gas tank is in the way. If it wasn't for the gas tank I would do a 4 link.

and yea my exhaust has got to be moved. I am going to keep my glasspack on the outside of the frame and have it exit in front of the rear wheel or under the truck

also: are these any good? saw them recently Dana 60 Outer Axle Seal [D60-OuterSeal] - $55.00 : Mad 4 Wheel Drive, Bulletproof Offroad Parts & Custom Axle Assemblies

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

If it were me, a rear centre with "knock on" cv rings, for over 38's, and a rear housing with d60 cv's mounted on it for bigger.

More psi steering pump pressure, and hydro assist for bigger than 38's toome thinks.

[planning these type of mods on an 80 at the moment, already have the 39.5 x 16.5/17 rockers, looking for a truck]

We have been modding the front diffs, and rears, and out of over 350+ of which were broken before they came to us, havent had a broken one back as yet, though 35's are the biggest, one on 37's we really see on an 80 here.

 

[Dusty]

42" iroks

 

[Dusty]

fitment issues

 

[Dusty]

more

 

[Dusty]

even more

 

[Dusty]

So the rear axle will move back a few inches as shown and I am considering moving the front axle rearward also a couple inches which will be easy to do as shown. It looks to be much easier to move the front axle rearward than to cut into my bumper and radiator support.

Another thing im looking at is the front axle lower links. as shown in the axle pick I only have about 2.5" of exposed axle shaft on the pass side of this dodge dana 60. as my incoming summit joints are already wider than that I will need to now fab my own bracket instead of buying one for this side

This axle is a dodge SRW dana 60. I like it as it has the extra beefy inner c's and I like the external hub design as I can use the bolt on external 35sp flanges which I like. (as apposed to inner drive flanges which are also cool). that 2.5" of pass side axletube lines up directly under the front upper coil catch which is convenient. I do worry that if my lower link on the pass side goes to this location My wheels may hit the link when turning. I may need to use a DRW cheby dana 60 up front.

The front is about at projected ride height while I would like the rear several inches lower than in pics

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Sweet...

 

[Dusty]

mocking it up
At stuff, sitting on the bump stop she should look like this in the front:

 

[Dusty]

At ride heigth with 26" at the frame she would lookj like this:

 

[Dusty]

This scenerio would give 5" of uptravel

 

[Dusty]

Running a 70" wms with my wheels would look likje this and require a 1.5" spacer each side.

To kjeep it this low will require some cutting.

Question: my mock up above shows 16" of spring from upper to lower perch at neutral height. Does anyone know if that corilates with the slee 4" or 6" springs? I have the 4" now but made a pair of 2" spacers

 

[adamsclarke]

You'll probably still have to drop your bump stops more if that's you full compression. You'll be fine until you get the wheels turned and then you'll really be into the fenders.

I run 3" of up travel at the bump stops on my comanndo with 1 tons. I have plenty of room to go more, but not if the wheels are turned.

After you get you alxe beack together...mount up the wheel and turn it so you can check. You'll want to do that anyway to make sure you keep your tires outs of your links (ask me how I know )

 

[clownmidget]

dusty, what is the spread between your lower links mount and upper link? are you getting 10" or less? looks like less than that to me.

why aren't you going to triangulate 4-link the rear and loose the rear panhard? you probably already said but i'm too lazy to read 4 pages...

those 42's are dopey big, you gonna hurt yourself. you keeping the whole body of this truck or is it a soon to be convertible, chopped rear w/tube doors?

i think if you cut the front fender wells out to just in front of the leading edge of the front doors you will have good space for moving the front axle back a bit but i think those 42's under full lock are going to be tough to keep off the frame or your links. might end up affecting your turning radius.

i like it man

 

[Dusty]

oops

 

[Dusty]

dusty, what is the spread between your lower links mount and upper link? are you getting 10" or less? looks like less than that to me.

why aren't you going to triangulate 4-link the rear and loose the rear panhard? you probably already said but i'm too lazy to read 4 pages...

those 42's are dopey big, you gonna hurt yourself. you keeping the whole body of this truck or is it a soon to be convertible, chopped rear w/tube doors?

i think if you cut the front fender wells out to just in front of the leading edge of the front doors you will have good space for moving the front axle back a bit but i think those 42's under full lock are going to be tough to keep off the frame or your links. might end up affecting your turning radius.

i like it man

links are 10.5" apart in the mock up as shown. remember mike that now my front ring gear is taller than the one in back of your truck. And I am running big thick noisy commercial gears with it.

why aren't you going to triangulate 4-link the rear and loose the rear panhard? you probably already said but i'm too lazy to read 4 pages....
I cant unless I do something with the gas tank. I have considered doing a fuel cell where the spare used to be but thats more work and I don't much spare time right now. I am leaning real heavy towards a pair of radius arms with the oe trackbar in back.

those 42's are dopey big, you gonna hurt yourself. you keeping the whole body of this truck or is it a soon to be convertible, chopped rear w/tube doors?
Im keeping this thing whole with exo next on my list

i think if you cut the front fender wells out to just in front of the leading edge of the front doors you will have good space for moving the front axle back a bitexactly my plan

but i think those 42's under full lock are going to be tough to keep off the frame or your links. might end up affecting your turning radius.I realy wory about this too. especially on the pass side where my exhaust sits just lateral to the frame. I think the links will be ok. How far are your links from hitting your 37's with your 3 link? I realy need to run 42's to justify the expense/overkill of the axle swap (at leaste in my mind)

i like it man [/QUOTE]
My 80 will rocketh

 

[Dusty]

mocking rear radius arms
at full stuff

 

[Dusty]

note the centered d70. The driveshaft will clear the gas tank ok if it doesn't shake the truck to death

 

[Dusty]

I am now planning on doing a pair of radius arms in rear and this forces me to point my pinion at my tcase (doesn't it?). But if my pinion points to my tcase don't I need to run a cv shaft and isn't that a bad idea with the offset driveline? Am I screwed? Do I have to use an ofset axle or ditch the oe gas tank so I can run a conventional 4 link? I could do a 3 link in the rear but I am leary of having the axle side of the track bar (oe location) and the axle side of the 3-link on oposite sides of the axle

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Why does running radius arms require that you point the pinion at the T-case?

Also, have you considered running a triangulated upper link like this /| so that you can keep your OE gas tank location and still eliminate the track bar?

I like what you're doing, although I have my doubts as to whether or not the truck will stay in the full-body configuration for long after these swaps.