Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

[Dusty]

Why does running radius arms require that you point the pinion at the T-case?

Also, have you considered running a triangulated upper link like this /| so that you can keep your OE gas tank location and still eliminate the track bar?

I like what you're doing, although I have my doubts as to whether or not the truck will stay in the full-body configuration for long after these swaps.

I hadn't thought of that /l sort of upper. But if I do that the gas tank is still in the way so I cant run a crossmemeber to triangulate the lowers like this \/. I dont think one of these /| is tough enough to support my truck alone. What about this on bottom /\ and this \| on top.

I thought you should point the pinion with a radius cause if the pinion is level it will point down when the pumpkin is stuffed. But of course the front oe 80 series front has a radius and doesn't do that

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Run your lowers parrallel and your upper like /| and it will be fine. It's been done many times before.

I think you need to do some more research on rear 3/4 links on Pirate and you will see the light

You might also consider swapping the orientation of the rear trackbar so that the axle end is on the passenger side like the front. I seem to recall some discussion with regards to the front and rear trackbars being positioned in the same orientation, I just can't remember if it's a good thing or a bad thing. I'm pretty sure it would be fine though, and then your panhard and upper link mount would be in the same place.

I just don't like radius arms in the rear, I've heard too many bad things about what they will do to your handleing and trail manners to even consider them. I think I would run leaf springs *gasp* before I did rear radius arms. ;p

 

[Dusty]

Please show me where this /l has been done many times before.

radius rear
front and rear radius arm ????? - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
however I would run the radius on bothe sides with a joint at the Y on the radius link (like a tj front)

I have researched the radius arm rear thing on pirate to a great extent. Ford guys run a radius arm in the rear but few others. Not much out there. I would expect that on road manners with a rear trackbar would be better than all but the best triangulated 4link/3 links

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

I'm sorry if I sounded like I was attacking/criticizing your plans, I was just trying to provide constructive input.

I have see that \| on several trucks(commonly referred to as a Y-link), but the only truck I have been able to find a pic/thread of so far is here: Fixing my broken ass truck (Frame cutting involved) - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

That truck was originally built by Rob Park aka "Bender" and has been put through a helluva lot. This style link seems to be more common in mini-trucks because they have similar gas tank issues and have been in the "hardcore" realm a lot longer than 80's.

I will continue looking to see what else I can come up with for you.

Ary

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Here's another good link:

3link with stock gas tank - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

 

[Dusty]

ya think that /l upper link on benders truck would hold with 6000+ lbs of heavy assed 80 series?

Im only looking for 12-14" of beefy travel. The 42's will do the rest. radius arms run on a 40" arm should have minimum bind.? Looking more on pirate. But how about summit joints at the frame and at the Y (where upper and lower links seperate) and these

Poly Bushing with Billet Threaded Stud

or even better these
Jeep Large Super Ride Bushing Kit :: Bushings :: Suspension Joints :: Poly Performance Inc.

at the axle (upper and lower)

attached to these brackets
Flat bottom radius arm mounts

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

I think you'd be better off with the bushings at the frame end and the summit joint at the axle end. For joint selection I would just look at the myriad of "normal" wishbone links out there.

If you think about it, the joints at the frame on a wishbone don't have any "misalignment" through their travel, only rotation. The joint at the axle is where all the articulation occurs.

For your lowers, I'd run bushings at one end, flex joints at the other. There's been a variety of discussion on th matter, but I like flex joints at the frame end to keep them out of the mud/grime as much as possible.

Dusty, I will come right out and say I'm no expert. I just feel from my readings over the years that a wishbone setup will be better/have less chance of quirks than a 3-link with panhard.

You might post up your build plans on PBB and ask for input. I think that's the best way you can get the info you need.

Ary

 

[concretejungle]

Dusty, i don't know if you need it or not, but i downloaded an excel spread sheet from extreme4x4 tv that is a link calculator. If you want it i can email it to you. Just PM me.

I have kept it around thinking that some day i may need it, but just haven't needed it yet.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Alex, it's probably the one that's all over PBB. Posted by a guy that goes by "triaged" on PBB.

 

[locrwln1]

Just something to think about as far as radius arms in the rear, Rubicon Express uses them for the JK lifts now. So maybe start looking for people or reviews of people are using the new RE lifts. The JK's have the same gas tank problem. So far everything I have seen/read has been good.

Jack

 

[bustanutley]

i would not do radius arms in the rear, the only way they will work well in a climbing situation is if the frame attachment point is equal or lower than the axle tube height. I have seen one buggy that works well with radius arms all around and that is what they did. It is the rockware buggy that races in XRRA. The inherent binding eliminates the need for a sway bar which is cool.

 

[Dusty]

thanks Ary

Dusty, i don't know if you need it or not, but i downloaded an excel spread sheet from extreme4x4 tv that is a link calculator. If you want it i can email it to you. Just PM me.

I have kept it around thinking that some day i may need it, but just haven't needed it yet.

Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

Just something to think about as far as radius arms in the rear, Rubicon Express uses them for the JK lifts now. So maybe start looking for people or reviews of people are using the new RE lifts. The JK's have the same gas tank problem. So far everything I have seen/read has been good.

Jack

I have searched the hell out of pirate and there is not much in the way of rear radius arms and certainly not rear radius arms with 2 y's (at bothe sides of the axle). That means they dont work or it hasn't been tried successfully. From what I have read the problem with unwristed radius arms is that they are too stiff. Perhaps if the axle joints are soft enough and the arms long enough the binding tendancies can be minimized. I think a foot of travel will be plenty. yesterday I baught 4 of these Jeep Large Super Ride Bushing Kit :: Bushings :: Suspension Joints :: Poly Performance Inc.

A few on pirate have spoken of their flexy nature. I also baught some 1 1/4 studs from balistic to weld to them for ease of adjustment and the potential to keep them untightened so they can twist. I will put these 4 rubber bushing things at the axle side of the radius and run the summit joint at the frame and at the base of the Y on each arm (I already baught 12 summit joints)

Part of me says run the oe suspension out back. if the radius fails I may do just that

i would not do radius arms in the rear, the only way they will work well in a climbing situation is if the frame attachment point is equal or lower than the axle tube height. I have seen one buggy that works well with radius arms all around and that is what they did. It is the rockware buggy that races in XRRA. The inherent binding eliminates the need for a sway bar which is cool.

I hope you are wrong

The last 2 nights I have neen tearing into the R&P and arb installs. I made a special stand. What a bitch. I'm a breath away from tossing both axles in the trailer and hauling them up to 4wheel parts to do the work for me.

 

[alkaline747trio]

Why are you re-inventing the wheel anyways? What is wrong with the OE setup with custom beefier arms at the length you need them? I vote against the radius arms myself...I mean, aren't most hardcore 80 users looking to remove them from the front anyway?

 

[Dusty]

Why are you re-inventing the wheel anyways? What is wrong with the OE setup with custom beefier arms at the length you need them? I vote against the radius arms myself...I mean, aren't most hardcore 80 users looking to remove them from the front anyway?

Good point. The oe arms would work just fine. I don't like the short little upper arms although they work well. Mainly I just want to be different I guess.

 

[locrwln1]

Shhhh. Don't tell Range Rover that radius arms don't work in the rear.

I would probably try the stock setup, just beefier, first.

Jack

 

[Dusty]

getting closer. axles being built by a local shop. They are also working on the truss for me.

built a 3" exhaust this past week. went over the frame intead of under. 3" fits rather easily for those considering this on their 80

 

[Dusty]

more

 

[Dusty]

mores

 

[Dusty]

i didn't go over the rear crossmember like the oe does. The 3" barely fits here. instead I went just lateral to the pass side rear upper suspension arm hanger. but I wont be using it so I wraped aroung it heading back into the middle of the truck to avoid the rear shock.

I was able to stuff a piece of 26g 12"x 24" aluminum sheet abobe the 3" exhaust that goes over the frame. I bolted this in place with bolts already under the body

 

[Dusty]

was a bit of work but worth it. Hopefully the turbo will give me a little more power with the bigger tube and run a little cooler. I welded the lm1 port for the wideband If I ever get around to dynoing her.