- Thread starter
- #61
I would be curious to see the weight of the weight of the short bus. tubed and all.
Anyhow its too late. I sold my 80 axles today. ship them out this week
Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
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I would be curious to see the weight of the weight of the short bus. tubed and all.
Anyhow its too late. I sold my 80 axles today. ship them out this week
Its all well and good to want to not have to pull out the tools when you go out wheeling, but i would much rather just get out there and push what i have and carry spares than sit it out because i dont have the money for longs or 1 tons or whatever the part du jour is. If you havent broken anything with 38.5s and you dont have a problem getting where you are going open in the front, id wait till you actually wheel it hard to put 1 tons under it. I t doesnt take much to pop a birf, just feed in a little rpm in reverse and they kinda just spit all their innards out. I cant imagine how many i would break if i had 38s.
I follow built cruisers and minis with duals and longs and all that jazz, i just beat my s*** up and have to fix a birf from time to time. Not that im not going to get longs, but for the time being im content to run what i have.
I don't sit out, I just pull strap. But I'm tired of pulling strap over stuff that I SHOULD be able to climb, but I can't because I'll pop birfs, and probably even longs if I get the front locker that I need to get up whatever obstacle it may be. I wheel it as hard as I feel comfortable wheeling it, and that's a lot harder than all of my wheeling friends (except a few who break s*** all the time because they have more time and money than sense). But who doesn't want bulletproof? And is it really any more expensive to do than building up a stocker? I want 3-link front anyways so the front axle is already going to be going under the knife.
I'm glad Dusty is charging into this before I have to even think too hard about it, then he can deal with the bugs I wont be able to afford.
I'm glad Dusty is charging into this before I have to even think too hard about it, then he can deal with the bugs I wont be able to afford.
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You're right, I wont pop longs...I'll pop the $700 gears I just installed.
Nothing at all...
I am more irritated by Alk by saying he can't wheel because he doesnt have certain parts...
sleeoffroad
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Shortbus was 5400lbs when I weighed it last.
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Nothing at all...
I am more irritated by Alk by saying he can't wheel because he doesnt have certain parts...
I can definitely wheel, and in more places than a fullbodied SUV should go. But to keep up with rigs like your's, or Christos, or Mace's I need a few key parts. I'm dying to regear and get a locker and beef up my axles, because that would be a HUGE improvement over what I have. But that's a good hunk of cash I wont get back in full. And I'm worried I would still end up wanting more, or in the case of 42" tires (if I ever get that large), NEEDING more.
- Thread starter
- #71
my truck is 58oolbs w axle spares (all of them) , extra tire, 35's, sliders and bumper. Add 250 for wife and kids, 100 for winch, 160 for me, 200 for camp gear/food/water. so 6500 lbs. Add more for fat friends that come along. when my boy scout troop comes along this thing is weighted.
- Thread starter
- #73
Alright hoser
*GASP* Your Canadian?!? I married one of thems...
Back on topic, I think that I may try to get Rockwells under mine one of these days... But it probably will be under a different 80. I would like to find a cheap, not running 91 or 92 (I know, I know... Good luck with that.)
In my opinion (which im not gonna try and say is the most experienced) you wont need more than 38s on the east coast. All the guys in my club say that it was more fun on 35s because now 95 percent of the trail is just a bumpy road with an obstacle that actually requires thought every so often. An 80 i wheel with ran every trail at tellico and has done about the same in PA. He is full bodied on 35s with 4.88s and stock lockers. You dont have to have 1 tons and 42s to wheel, you only need those for the 1% of trails where you look at it and go wow thats a stupid hard line. s***, i dont wheel with anyone under a 36 and i run the same trails they do, and i dont take bypasses.
Im a firm believer in dont fix whats not broken, but if you have the money for one tons (this is direceted towards the actual poster
then by all means, it would be nice to never worry about breaking anything in the axles no matter how much your truck weighs or how stupid you get with the skinny pedal.
back away from the skinny pedal and use momentum as your friend. That seems to save a ton of parts. Just my opinion.
x2, momentum is how i make dual cased minis look bad. They sit there at 0.1 miles per hour chugging along with the tires barely turning trying to crawl stuff, and then i come along, spool up the converter, and carry a little momentum through it and am fine.
The fun part for me being SUA is learning what horrible scraping and banging noises to drive through and when to let out of it
.
Are wide offset wheel safe? I want more stability out of this (heavy roof-rack up top, but I need the storage), what are my choices there? Gonna do a 2" susp drop and a 1-2" body lift to help a little. Is there anything else?
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life is much better with tons 
far more stability, 4 years and counting on my first set of spicer u-joints with 42's
I crawl lots of stuff( embarrassed minitruck guy)but can happily stomp it when the need arises.
It is the one mod I will never go without again on future rides, it truly put the FUN back into wheeling
good luck
far more stability, 4 years and counting on my first set of spicer u-joints with 42's I crawl lots of stuff( embarrassed minitruck guy)but can happily stomp it when the need arises.
It is the one mod I will never go without again on future rides, it truly put the FUN back into wheeling
good luck
