What's up everyone. I was hoping for a little help to know where to start troubleshooting my freshly created problem. I have no power when I turn the key. Not accessory, On, or starter trigger.
Some of you may have seen my recent alternator upgrade thread. I just finished putting a GM10si into the lower driver side spot below my Saginaw PS conversion. 65 amp, as I wanted a little more power over the 40 amp my 73 has stock. Ran a new 6 gauge direct to the battery. Based on a bunch of old threads about this, I learned the 10Si alternator needed a key switched lead to go to on one of the 2 posts on the alternator. The other is bridged to the battery charge terminal. They keyed lead basically tells the alternator is it good to charge. While I was at it I put new 2 gauge ground cables from the battery to the block. I used a round fuse tap and grabbed a lead from the fuse panel. Wired a specific resistor inline with that lead, as I understand those alternators want that there to simulate the load of an "it's charging" light. i unplugged the OEM Charge light, as that was always on, telling me the system wasn't getting charged. I unplugged the OEM votage regualtor.
Got it running and it ran great for about a week. Ran stronger and the lights were a little brighter on the dash, blinkers ect. Figured mostly that was the better grounding. The other day I went into the bank and came out and it was dead. I instantly figured uh oh..elecrtical. I first thought ignition so I unplugged and re-plugged it, and low and behold, it started and ran...for about 10 min, then same totally dead in the water. Checked all the fuses. All good. Battery connections are all good and tight. Once again, after about 10 min of fiddling with the ignition switch plug, it came back and ran. Got me about a 1/2 mile from home then died while I was driving. Coasted to safety, got a tow rope and my Sequioa and got her home. It's been dead ever since. No Signs of life.
I've pulled the ignition switch out, tested it, and pulled it apart. It tests fine, continuity to all terminals. When plugged it back in and I tested for voltage to each of the 3 other wires, it has 12 volts to the main lead, but when i try the other leads, they show no current. Ordered a new one, which I should see next week. Also dropped the fuse panel and everything seems OK there. All fuses pass a continuity test. I've been trying to study the wiring diagram, but am struggle to glean anything helpful.
So any suggestions about where to go from here are very much appreciated. At this point, if the answer is to go back to the stock set up and live with 40 amps, I'll do it. I'm confused by my testing of the ignition switch. One test has me thinking it's good, the other has me thinking it's bad. Physical inspection has it looking fine. I guess the bigger concern, is what stupid thing did I do by changing the alternator. I read through a ton of threads and thought I did it right, but l must have done something.
I just had to go messing with things!!!! Thx in advance
Some of you may have seen my recent alternator upgrade thread. I just finished putting a GM10si into the lower driver side spot below my Saginaw PS conversion. 65 amp, as I wanted a little more power over the 40 amp my 73 has stock. Ran a new 6 gauge direct to the battery. Based on a bunch of old threads about this, I learned the 10Si alternator needed a key switched lead to go to on one of the 2 posts on the alternator. The other is bridged to the battery charge terminal. They keyed lead basically tells the alternator is it good to charge. While I was at it I put new 2 gauge ground cables from the battery to the block. I used a round fuse tap and grabbed a lead from the fuse panel. Wired a specific resistor inline with that lead, as I understand those alternators want that there to simulate the load of an "it's charging" light. i unplugged the OEM Charge light, as that was always on, telling me the system wasn't getting charged. I unplugged the OEM votage regualtor.
Got it running and it ran great for about a week. Ran stronger and the lights were a little brighter on the dash, blinkers ect. Figured mostly that was the better grounding. The other day I went into the bank and came out and it was dead. I instantly figured uh oh..elecrtical. I first thought ignition so I unplugged and re-plugged it, and low and behold, it started and ran...for about 10 min, then same totally dead in the water. Checked all the fuses. All good. Battery connections are all good and tight. Once again, after about 10 min of fiddling with the ignition switch plug, it came back and ran. Got me about a 1/2 mile from home then died while I was driving. Coasted to safety, got a tow rope and my Sequioa and got her home. It's been dead ever since. No Signs of life.
I've pulled the ignition switch out, tested it, and pulled it apart. It tests fine, continuity to all terminals. When plugged it back in and I tested for voltage to each of the 3 other wires, it has 12 volts to the main lead, but when i try the other leads, they show no current. Ordered a new one, which I should see next week. Also dropped the fuse panel and everything seems OK there. All fuses pass a continuity test. I've been trying to study the wiring diagram, but am struggle to glean anything helpful.
So any suggestions about where to go from here are very much appreciated. At this point, if the answer is to go back to the stock set up and live with 40 amps, I'll do it. I'm confused by my testing of the ignition switch. One test has me thinking it's good, the other has me thinking it's bad. Physical inspection has it looking fine. I guess the bigger concern, is what stupid thing did I do by changing the alternator. I read through a ton of threads and thought I did it right, but l must have done something.
I just had to go messing with things!!!! Thx in advance
on this 
. Dont Stop Now 
