Replacing fusible links with fuses? 1991 FJ80

[jynx]

So I recently replaced my fusible links and after one of them pulled apart and left me stranded for a couple hours until I figured out what it was, and after I had a short conversation with an Electrical Engineer on the trail while troubleshooting the problem, he suggested that I replace the links with actual fuses.

I have read several threads and know most opinions are to use the OEM links (which these were) and that they act like a "slow tripping fuse" per one thread, but per our conversation and other similar discussions with a few other folks in the auto industry, they tend to suggest that they are used as a way to save a few cents on each production vehicle.

My other issue is that I need some extra length because the link box is catching on the box and putting some strain on the connections at the battery end. And the new military style clamps have too big a bolt to go thru the link ends, so I would have to either drill them or add another connection point somewhere in line anyway.

So would it be ok to swap the links for actual fuses? And also, does anyone know what each link is rated for Ampwise?

Thanks.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is unwise to replace them with fuses. If it was a good idea, they would come that way.

 

[86tuning]

And fix the wire stretching issue, that's going to cause problems down the road. I'm running military style clamps, don't have issues with my wires being stretched....

Spare fusible link set is cheap and compact too.

 

[CJF]

/thread

 

[1973Guppie]

they act like a slow blow fuse, a regular fuse or a fuse breaker will probably give you some nuisance blows / trips. I would only replace that with OEM personally.

the fusible link will be able to handle high spikes and not trip but will burn through if the spike is high enough AND long enough. Someone will correct me hopefully if I am wrong. I used to sell fuses so I learned a few things. That being said, wasn't so good at it thus the current career change. LOL.

 

[jynx]

Well Does anyone know what would be a recommended wire size because I am going to have to put in a new length of wire and a breaker or something to extend the connection point. Heck I guess a blue sea isolation switch and a length of wire would do, then I could kill it all when it isn't being used to help keep the battery isolated and prevent parasitic draws.

Alt is 90A, but I know it can pull much more on a start up. 1/0 is rated at 150A. That should do shouldn't it?

 

[jynx]

If I ran 1' of 1/0 wire to a blue sea 150A busbar to feed the fusible links as well as connect the winch and an auxiliary fuse block, would I need a breaker in line?

About to pull the trigger on this:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/2307/Common_150A_BusBar_-_Four_1_4in-20_Studs_with_Cover

Any reason for a breaker in line to add to my amazon order?

 

[western flyer]

If I ran 1' of 1/0 wire to a blue sea 150A busbar to feed the fusible links as well as connect the winch and an auxiliary fuse block, would I need a breaker in line?

About to pull the trigger on this:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/2307/Common_150A_BusBar_-_Four_1_4in-20_Studs_with_Cover

Any reason for a breaker in line to add to my amazon order?

I did what you are contemplating. I used the same BlueSea busbar (get the available cover for it). I do not think you need fuse or breaker protection for such a short cable run to the busbar. I used Ancor battery cable, which is a quality tinned copper cable designed for an application like this. Get the tool for properly crimping lugs and make your own cables. http://search.overtons.com/?Ns=p_im...Ne=1000002&N=2207+4294959387&cname=Electrical

All my connections to the batt run through the busbar (these connections are not in place yet in the pics). Everything I hook up to the busbar has protection, except the starter cable; for example, the aux fuse box I have in the rear hooks up to the busbar, but I have a circuit breaker inline, with it very close to the busbar. Running a fuse or breaker that can handle to the starter amp draw would be possible, but a challenge IMO.

 

[jynx]

Thanks for the picture western flyer. That is exactly what I am looking to do with mine. Gonna pull the trigger on that busbar w/cover from amazon tomorrow morning.

Thanks again.

 

[western flyer]

You're welcome. I hope that helped. I mounted the busbar to the batt box with some low profile stainless hardware, including nyloc nuts, taking advantage of the undulations of the batt box.