Help removing upper oil pan FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 21, 2017
Threads
10
Messages
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Location
Lakeside, CA
Hey guys, do you have any advice for removing the upper oil pan on the 1FZ-FE engine, while still in the vehicle? I have all the bolts out a can't get the pan to separate from the block. I can't even get a razor blade between them! The engine has a knock and there is non-ferrous metal in the oil filter. I just want to get it off to inspect the rod bearings.
 
you sure you got all the bolts? there are someone inside the pan that most people dont see without using the book. i think to remove it you need to unbolt the motor mounts and lift it up a few inches.
 
yes, take off lower pan first, three bolts inside if I recall.

Mine was a pain to remove too. Maybe the old fj40 trick with putting a jack between the pan and the frame, (imagine the jack sideways, horizontal) apply decent pressure and let time and the reasonable pressure do the work.
 
Yeah I got the bolts under the first pan. I will try the fj40 trick. I think if I can get a bottle jack between the frame rail and pan, that might do the trick. Thanks.
 
You'll need to get block wood undo motor mounts bottom nuts and jack up the engine with floor jack and wood, you need to prob take the fan and shroud off also
 
Thanks for the input. I ended up getting it off by sticking a flat head screwdriver between the pan and block on the rear passenger side of the pan. There is a lip on both the block and pan to get some leverage. This was after repeatedly knocking the pan with a 2x4 through the passenger side wheel well. Rod Bearings got scorched by previous owner running low on oil. If anyone knows a good engine builder in San Diego, please let me know.

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20170712_160659[2].jpg
 
if the rod journal doesnt look too bad I would grab some fine emery cloth and polish the journals up and slip in new bearings.
 
if the rod journal doesnt look too bad I would grab some fine emery cloth and polish the journals up and slip in new bearings.
I was thinking about doing that. The Crankpin Journal is in good shape, there is no scaring on it what so ever. It certainly would be a lot cheaper haha. The lowest quote I got was $3200 for a rebuilt long block. The plus of having a fresh motor is reliability. I really wish I had the cash for a 6bt swap.
 
Don't forget to use Toyota FIPG "fixture in place gasket" when you reinstall your pan, and pay special attention to the pan arch so you don't end up with a BIG oil leak.
OEMFIPGB.jpg

OEMFIPGB

OEMFIPGO.jpg

OEMFIPGO


Form-in-Place-Gasket (FIPG)
OEM Toyota# 103 - Black - 3.0oz (82g)
(Fits all year Land Cruisers, for use on oil pan, camshaft & water pump)
Part# OEMFIPGB - $14.50

Form-in-Place-Gasket (FIPG)
AISIN (OE Manufacture) - Black - 2.0oz (57g)
(Fits all year Land Cruisers, for use on oil pan, camshaft & water pump)
Part# OEMFIPGBS - $12.00

Form-in-Place-Gasket (FIPG)
OEM Toyota# 1281 - Orange - 3.5oz (100g)
(Fits all year Land Cruisers, for use on axles, transmissions and t-cases)
Part# OEMFIPGO - $24.50
 
That upper oil pan is a beast!
 
Anyone else have issues with getting the engine to lift? The nuts are out of the mounts and the oil pan is loose, I just need to get the engine up. It’s like it is stuck onto the mounts. The hoist is moving the whole vehicle. Any tricks?
 
Anyone else have issues with getting the engine to lift? The nuts are out of the mounts and the oil pan is loose, I just need to get the engine up. It’s like it is stuck onto the mounts. The hoist is moving the whole vehicle. Any tricks?
If you're using a hoist, you will have to take the engine weight off the frame, thus allowing the springs to release and the truck will lift with 600 LB less in it. Is that what you're experiencing or is it lifting the front tires off the ground?
 
Moving the whole vehicle. I sprayed the mounts with wd40. The engine should be lifting but it just isn’t.
 
I know this is an old thread. Maybe someone will answer. I don’t have an engine hoist. I read somewhere that I can jack up on the crank bolt . Is this okay? Tell me ur thoughts please.
 
I jacked from the crank pulley and it works fine. Just place a 2x4 or 4x4 between your jack and the pulley and push it up. An engine hoist would be preferable because it's safer (engine or jack isn't going to move and drop off the block), but the pulley does work.
 
I jacked from the crank pulley and it works fine. Just place a 2x4 or 4x4 between your jack and the pulley and push it up. An engine hoist would be preferable because it's safer (engine or jack isn't going to move and drop off the block), but the pulley does work.
Thanks for the info.
 

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