Glad to see you found it. Have you put a new filter (not Fram!) and fired it up?
Help! Oil Gushing out of Engine! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aamiggia
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thank you for finaly replacing the filter! the suspense was killing us!
Well he fired it up, I sure hope he put oil in it......
Well he fired it up, I sure hope he put oil in it......
aamiggia said:Update.
DEFECTIVE F'n FRAM OIL FILTER!!!
The oil filter was very difficult to remove, once out it was obvious that the rubber seal had detached from the filter metal lip. The filter has a very thin rubber seal to begin with.
Do you guys think the rubber seal itself is the problem, or that maybe the filter is internally blocked and the oil blew the seal to get out? Or...
Curtis
- Thread starter
- #44
Thanks to everyone for helping me out!
I put the old filter back until I can get an OEM tomorrow.
The Fram filter was free when I got my last batch of oil. I guess you get what you pay for. 
And yes, there's oil in it.
There was absolutely NO oil in it when my wife came home. Zero. I'm assuming it was like that for 10 km. If there's no damage I'll be very surprised. Maybe the PO used Slick 50.
I put the old filter back until I can get an OEM tomorrow.
The Fram filter was free when I got my last batch of oil. I guess you get what you pay for.
And yes, there's oil in it.
There was absolutely NO oil in it when my wife came home. Zero. I'm assuming it was like that for 10 km. If there's no damage I'll be very surprised. Maybe the PO used Slick 50.
I'm hoping that open Fram filter box in that pic doesn'y mean you put another one on.
"I been using them Fram oil filters's's for 20 years. There ain't NOTHING wrong with thems filters's's" :hillybilly:
No, really... that could of happened with any oil filter.
Hope everythings okay. I had the same thing happen with an AC Delco filter many years ago.
Rookie2
No, really... that could of happened with any oil filter.
Hope everythings okay. I had the same thing happen with an AC Delco filter many years ago.
Rookie2
aamiggia said:There was absolutely NO oil in it when my wife came home. Zero. I'm assuming it was like that for 10 km. If there's no damage I'll be very surprised. Maybe the PO used Slick 50.
No oil, as in you put 8 quarts back into it fill it up?
Skillet
Skillet
Gnikcuf Fram
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I am really bummed for you. If it was run out of oil for more than a few seconds, that motor is toast. Please post up if it knocks once you put oil back in it. If it knocks, don't drive it-the block may still be rebuildable. If you drive and it fails catastrophically, you will need an entire new motor, which will feed Dan's pups for 10+ years.
I would email Powderpig on this and get his take on a start up/drive proceedure.
Funny, prior to the internet, I used Frams for years. I have been Fram free since 1994. I like the Toyota big filter on all the Cruisers, even the 80. In a pinch, I'll use the Napa Gold 1515 on my 40 and 60.
Good luck aamiggia!
I would email Powderpig on this and get his take on a start up/drive proceedure.
Funny, prior to the internet, I used Frams for years. I have been Fram free since 1994. I like the Toyota big filter on all the Cruisers, even the 80. In a pinch, I'll use the Napa Gold 1515 on my 40 and 60.
Good luck aamiggia!
aamiggia said:
Rod bearings are generally the first to get damage from lack of oil. listen for a knock.
powderpig
SILVER Star
If is does start knocking real soon, they you can still salvage this by drooping the pans, removing all the bearing and seeing which is bad. If you find one then you could replace it with a new one. the crank could also be clean up if not too bad. You must keep track of where the bearing come from so the good one can go back in. I have done this on serveral engines of various makes over the years with great suscess. So not all is lost. Alot of shops will only rebuild something like this. But it can be repaired with great sucess if there is a problem. It is only a matter of how much money you want to throw at it. later robbie
Personally I think you will be ok. We drained a motor when younger and intentionally ran it dry at incredably high RPMs to BLOW it. It ran for a hell of a long time, we almost gave up.
They aren't know as "orange cans of death" for nothing!
If any motor can take it..a straight six can
My experience with this problem was a Ferd F150 with the venerable 300 cubic inch straight six. At 150k the drain plug fell out and the motor was run completely dry. Company mechanic drove to truck, fired employee, filled her up with oil and she fired right up no knocks. 5 years later it became my company truck with 285k on it. It was sold later at 325k and I still see it around sometimes. A straight six is the toughest bottom end there is, pour some syn oil in it and see what happens, I'll bet its fine.
My experience with this problem was a Ferd F150 with the venerable 300 cubic inch straight six. At 150k the drain plug fell out and the motor was run completely dry. Company mechanic drove to truck, fired employee, filled her up with oil and she fired right up no knocks. 5 years later it became my company truck with 285k on it. It was sold later at 325k and I still see it around sometimes. A straight six is the toughest bottom end there is, pour some syn oil in it and see what happens, I'll bet its fine.
was the gasket on the fram lubed up before you threaded her on? a dry gasket will deform when she snugs up...
We used to blow up car motors as a fundraiser (building houses for families in Mexico) at a shop I worked at. People would donate money "guessing" when the motor would seize. We'd drain oil and coolant, run it up with a cinder block on the gas pedal. It generally took several minutes for motors to seize. A chrysler with a slant six eventually it threw a rod after 4 mins. An old nissan would seize after the valves floated for around 6 mins. Then several times after we were able to start it and run it.
To be precautionary you could drop then pan and inspect the crank and rod bearings but I'd be inclined to first listen to it carefully with a stethescope once its filled back with oil.
BTW, on my diesel cruiser once I replaced a filter and the old oil seal was still on the block but I didnt notice it. When I ran it up oil also gushed everywhere. I freaked out, removed the filter and saw that the original filter seal was basically vulcanized to the block. Removed the old seal and all was well.
Good luck...
To be precautionary you could drop then pan and inspect the crank and rod bearings but I'd be inclined to first listen to it carefully with a stethescope once its filled back with oil.
BTW, on my diesel cruiser once I replaced a filter and the old oil seal was still on the block but I didnt notice it. When I ran it up oil also gushed everywhere. I freaked out, removed the filter and saw that the original filter seal was basically vulcanized to the block. Removed the old seal and all was well.
Good luck...
Just listen for the sound of your rod bearings clacking away . . .
Landylover and Powderpig are giving you some excellent advice.
First thing, fill it and carefully listen for any sign of knocking.
Here's a clue to the condition of the rod bearings: In the morning after the truck has been sitting all night, go out and start the engine, while listening to it very carefully. for the first 1-2 seconds, that engine is running "dry" while the oil pump picks up oil and pressurizes the system. During those 1-2 seconds, you will have a chance to detect any rod knocks coming from the big-end-bearings. Once the oil light goes out and the pressure is built up, the knocking will disappear.
So, try this, maybe for two days in a row, to help you determine the extent of any damage.
After doing this to get a rough idea of their condition, If they sound quiet, I'd still remove the oil pan and while I'm in there, simply replace the bearings shells with new ones. You don't need Toyota you can use any good brand, they're really all pretty good. if you want, use Toyota.
While the rod caps are off, carefully inspect the journals for any scoring or heat damage, hopefully there won't be any. If they are still smooth, you're probably good to go.
It's surprising how long an engine can run without oil before it seizes up, but the bearings do start to overheat and deform much sooner than point of seizure, so even if it was a mile or two from seizing, you may still have some bearing failure. I would NOT drive the truck at all until you perform the above tests, otherwise you may really help it along to the graveyard.
Oh, and dude, you need to have a serious chat with the wife. She needs to learn that when any of the warning lights come one, the time to reach for the ignition key is RIGHT NOW, not 6 very expensive miles down the road. I've brainwashed my kids and wife with this concept, and on two occasions it has paid off! I got them to the point where they scan the temp and oil gauges like every minute or so.
Dana
First thing, fill it and carefully listen for any sign of knocking.
Here's a clue to the condition of the rod bearings: In the morning after the truck has been sitting all night, go out and start the engine, while listening to it very carefully. for the first 1-2 seconds, that engine is running "dry" while the oil pump picks up oil and pressurizes the system. During those 1-2 seconds, you will have a chance to detect any rod knocks coming from the big-end-bearings. Once the oil light goes out and the pressure is built up, the knocking will disappear.
So, try this, maybe for two days in a row, to help you determine the extent of any damage.
After doing this to get a rough idea of their condition, If they sound quiet, I'd still remove the oil pan and while I'm in there, simply replace the bearings shells with new ones. You don't need Toyota you can use any good brand, they're really all pretty good. if you want, use Toyota.
While the rod caps are off, carefully inspect the journals for any scoring or heat damage, hopefully there won't be any. If they are still smooth, you're probably good to go.
It's surprising how long an engine can run without oil before it seizes up, but the bearings do start to overheat and deform much sooner than point of seizure, so even if it was a mile or two from seizing, you may still have some bearing failure. I would NOT drive the truck at all until you perform the above tests, otherwise you may really help it along to the graveyard.
Oh, and dude, you need to have a serious chat with the wife. She needs to learn that when any of the warning lights come one, the time to reach for the ignition key is RIGHT NOW, not 6 very expensive miles down the road. I've brainwashed my kids and wife with this concept, and on two occasions it has paid off! I got them to the point where they scan the temp and oil gauges like every minute or so.
Dana
You might also call Blackstone Labs who does the oil analysis for a few guys here. Ask them what, if anything, sending in a sample of the oil that's now in the engine would tell you/them. I suspect their equipment will easily detect the presence and level of bearing material in the oil. Since you lost the oil, then engine was run w/o oil then refilled presumably all the material will now be in the refilled oil pan. If they see massive amounts you'll know what you're up against. If they see high amounts you may feel much better. They'll shoot you straight in terms of what they can provide in either case. Call 'em.
DougM
DougM
