Help! Oil Gushing out of Engine!

[tarbe]

You might also call Blackstone Labs who does the oil analysis for a few guys here. Ask them what, if anything, sending in a sample of the oil that's now in the engine would tell you/them.
DougM

Good idea. Run this new batch of oil up to operating temp and then sample as it drains, but wait until a quart or three drain before you catch the sample. You want to make sure the oil and "stuff" is well mixed in order to get a representative sample.

Blackstone can get you a sample bottle in a couple days.

 

[concretejungle]

As Dan pointed out earlier, i would document this all, as you have here on mud, keep the filter, and if anything is wrong with the motor, i would bring that to Fram's attention and expect them to foot the bill.

 

[powderpig]

Before spending any money run the truck with a new filter and oil. Run it for a week or more. No real need to hop on anything until a noise rears its ugully head. I couple of years ago I was doing a snow run and lost oil pressure at High RPM and did not notice it as I was too busy watching where i was drive the truck. Did finally notice, turnd the truck aroun and went home. Never heard a noise at all, all of sudden about a week later I lost Oil pressure, not totally but a good bit of pressure. I desided to cut open the oil filter and see what I could see, I found non ferious metal in the oil filter, a good bit. I knew I lost a bearing. Funny thing no noises still. Well after dropping both pans and looking in side lots of non ferious metal. I wondered which bearing lost it guts and how much damage I had. Well I looked all at the rods, all ok no scratches no marks of heat, etc. Well i started to pull down the mains and #4 (center) puked it guts all over the place, but no scratches what so ever on the crank. I never heard no noise, nothing, just oil pressure loss. The down ward rod bearing had no metal gone through it at all. I did order all new bearings and put them in. Ordered a new oil pressure relief spring as well for the oil pump. All was fine with the engine after.
So I guess what I am trying to say, is you may of hurt the engine, it may not develop any signs or symptoms right away. Not much really you can do right now. So run the engine, watch it like a hawk and see what devolops. Listen for noises.
If you are slightly parniod, cut open the filter that created this and see what is inside it. Remove the lower (steel pan), this will only take about 15 minutes and some heat to release the sealant. Look inside the lower pan and see if you have any bits of metal in the bottom. Or if you want to drain a quart out in a small pan and see if any metal is in the oil(pan must be clean). No need to send to a lab. You will see any metal if the bearings are starting to fail.
Good luck there is lots of way to go about this and others have given you great ideas as well. Just the way I would go about stuff. later robbie

 

[aamiggia]

Hey guys,

Thanks again for all of the support and information. My wife was shocked at the responses and # of views on this thread. She doesn't think that this forum is a secret NAMBLA get together anymore.

Just to clarify, when my wife can home there was no oil in the truck. As in I put 7.5 - 8 L of oil in to fill it.

I put on a new Fra... (j/k) I mean Napa Gold oil filter and topped it up after I poured 2 L of oil thru to clean out sediments. She started up just like normal. No weird noises, no knocks, or whines. I did notice my belts are making a good amount of noise, but nothing strange from the engine.

I drove it for 15 - 20 km and listened for noises while monitoring the oil pressure. Pressure is normal, engine is responsive (as good as it has always been), and no noises or knocks under load accelerating uphill. Everything was good this moring too. I'll be driving it (instead of the wife) for the week to monitor for problems.

I'm holding onto the filter and saving this thread for proof, if I need it. The rubber seal on the oil filter was not defective when I put it on and I did oil it up prior to installation.

BTW, I have instilled the fear of God in my wife about the oil & temp gauge and dummy light.

Another reason to love these trucks is the abuse they can take and keep truck'n!

Thanks again guys,
Alex

 

[aamiggia]

As mentioned in this post somewhere, the oil was coming out of the filter in a very high velocity jet through the rubber seal. It was difficult to see because pf the location of the filter to the intake manifold.

This is my artist rendition of the incident.


Disclaimer: This is a dramatization.

 

[Tools R Us]

Good deal, glad it didn't hurt the motor!

 

[powderpig]

If over time you then turn it over to the wife again as the miles build, I personally would only go 1/2 the distance on what ever your oil change schedule. Then change both the oil and filter at this time. So if you are typically going 3000 miles (or kilometer equ) then I would change the oil at the distance of 1500 M. The engine has seen some abuse and the oil will be working a little harder to clean up the inside some. This also gives you a chance to send a oil sample in and to cut open the filter to see if any minor harm has been done.
So if using synthetic oil and going 7500-10000 mile oil changes I would 1/2 it to around 3750-5000 miles. good luck robbie

 

[cruiserdan]

Man o man....!

It looks like you may have dodged a bullet there.....

Congratulations!

 

[sdbrassfield]

I have been following this very popular thread for a few days now. I do not use fram filters for my LC (NAPA Gold, Wix, or OEM) but have seen this problem twice over the years with oil filters. The last one I saw do this was not a Fram, it was a NAPA filter. The gasket seal was not defective. The filter gasket was oiled as it should be and filter installed. However, when the filter was installed, it was severely overtightened which caused the gasket to kink and come out of its groove on the bottom of the fiter. It had sprayed oil almost exactly as you had described. Just an example of what overtightening can do. Not saying this happened in this case, but if you have to use a filter wrench to get your filter off, it is too tight!!!!

 

[Heffenoche]

From this forum I started tightning my filters hand tight and have never had a problem with leaks. I only mention this as it appears to work much better that overtightning and makes changes a lot easier.

 

[fj803fe]

From this forum I started tightning my filters hand tight and have never had a problem with leaks. I only mention this as it appears to work much better that overtightning and makes changes a lot easier.

3/4 of a turn passed the point of contact of the seal with its seat-its all you should need. Not even hand tight really-you will never need a filter wrench again in your lifetime

EDIT: Oh, and some oil around the gasket-a little dab l' do ya.

 

[alia176]

This thread impressed me quite a bit. Great troubleshooting y'all!

I wonder if he does indeed have a case against the oil change place or FRAM regardless of engine damage or not. Perhaps file a claim now, just in case something shows up later? Plenty of pictures for proof!

 

[spartan]

Man I gotta get that Fram filter I just put on off the truck. The store was out of Bosch filters so I just grabbed the Fram - didn't have any idea....

 

[Turbo Turtle]

Would like to interject however that for a small fraction more it will alway's!! be wisest to go to toyota for all filters and brake parts, and establishing a relationship with a local dealer can often reap 15 to 20% discounts bringing oem quality parts to your deserving cruiser. I still get all of my service and wear items parts for my thiry-two year old fj 40 from my local dealership.

"Oh!" all exept for the roters possibly, witch are later model

 

[MH_Stevens]

When I first read this thread I thought over-tightened filter. I could not see here how long from oil change it took to start leaking.

I also notice from the photo the Fram filter was the cheapo PH version. The Fram extended guard and long life versions seem better.

 

[Beowulf]

Welcome Turtle and.....


You need to check with C-Dan to see if he can get you those rotors and any other parts your local dealer says they can't get. And you might... just maybe... be surprised at the price.

-B-

 

[fj803fe]

When I first read this thread I thought over-tightened filter. I could not see here how long from oil change it took to start leaking.

I also notice from the photo the Fram filter was the cheapo PH version. The Fram extended guard and long life versions seem better.

Don't bother asking which FRAM is better-its moot. USE OEM.