I thought it was just us down here in Africa that keep our engines protected from mosquitos and rats . 
Help me plan for a 2FE
- Thread starter RockDoc
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #222
Found a proper 2F TEQ oil cap in the bottom of one of my parts boxes, so that's taken care of. We definitely have mosquitos and mice at the farm, without one of those coils going it would be pretty unbearable to mess around with the engine in the evenings after work.
Should be getting the oil in and the pump primed so I can drop in the dizzy in the next day or two. Need to put on the water pump pulley and fan clutch so I can measure out for the drive belts and pick them up next time I'm in town...... and start thinking more about the exhaust that's going to go behind this.
Should be getting the oil in and the pump primed so I can drop in the dizzy in the next day or two. Need to put on the water pump pulley and fan clutch so I can measure out for the drive belts and pick them up next time I'm in town...... and start thinking more about the exhaust that's going to go behind this.
- Thread starter
- #223
It's going in 
The 3FE is out with help from my dad. Ratpuke's gonna help tomorrow, so the tranny should be swapped over and it all plunked back in. Hopefully I'll have it fired up (with straight-pipes
) on Friday I hope.
The 3FE is out with help from my dad. Ratpuke's gonna help tomorrow, so the tranny should be swapped over and it all plunked back in. Hopefully I'll have it fired up (with straight-pipes
) on Friday I hope.
I love your cherry picker!! You bringing in Ratpuke for the verbal abuse... er... uhm I mean humour. Can't wait for the results, I'll probably try to tackle a 2FE in the next couple of years... unless a 12H-T drops into my lap.
- Thread starter
- #225
Get the two of us together, and I'm not sure who's worse. We definitely elevate each other's game.
I've got my pre-swap performance numbers ready for comparison
IIRC 19.5 sec for 0-100km and 16.5 sec for 80-120 in 3rd. It's gonna be loud as hell with straight pipes for the first couple runs with the 2FE
Finally - I have monitored this rebuild for ages now and cannot wait for the end result . This is my favourite thread on MUD .
I have Dyno booked for end of October - please post your Dyno figures when you do eventually get to it .
I have Dyno booked for end of October - please post your Dyno figures when you do eventually get to it .
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I am digging that hoist!
Sounds like a fun weekend ahead of you...
Sounds like a fun weekend ahead of you...
- Thread starter
- #228
Well it's in, and mostly hooked up. Thursday was a rain day, yesterday was torque convertor install muck-up day, and today went well. Still need to plug in the ECU, jerry rig the O2 sensors (till I get the exhaust done proper) and fill all the fluids, then I can fire it up and see if it'll run Should hear it roar tomorrow.
Should hear it roar tomorrow.
Did you really use a grain elevator as an engine hoist?
If so, that is some great improvising.
Congrats on the install.
Video the initial start and drop it on You Tube and link it here.
If so, that is some great improvising.
Congrats on the install.
Video the initial start and drop it on You Tube and link it here.
- Thread starter
- #230
Yup, we used the auger. Worked great except for the one time I was repositioning it with the tractor and one of the chains from the hoist caught on an exhaust manifold shield.
When we dropped the assembly in, we rolled the truck forward under the hoist, since reverse in the Case wouldn't be slow enough to finesse it.I'll try to get a video of initial start up, it'll be loud
I showed this to the Mrs.
She could not believe how much Hi-Tech/State of the Art stuff I have in my shop like floor jacks, engine hoists, lights, walls, concrete floor, radio, etc.
My shop allowance has been cut from the houshold budget.
LOL
Keep up the Git R Done, Ehh? attitude!
She could not believe how much Hi-Tech/State of the Art stuff I have in my shop like floor jacks, engine hoists, lights, walls, concrete floor, radio, etc.
My shop allowance has been cut from the houshold budget.
LOL
Keep up the Git R Done, Ehh? attitude!
Ratpuke
SILVER Star
Apparently he did.
RD called me tonight to let me know about his progress. They've fired it up and broken in the camshaft and took it for a quick spin around the country mile. They have a few more loose ends to tie up before he heads into town tomorrow night with it. Curtis will post up more details then.
Congratulations on not screwing anything up so far!
Seriously... congrats on having all your hard work come together! 
(see?? I can be nice sometimes)
RD called me tonight to let me know about his progress. They've fired it up and broken in the camshaft and took it for a quick spin around the country mile. They have a few more loose ends to tie up before he heads into town tomorrow night with it. Curtis will post up more details then.
Congratulations on not screwing anything up so far!
Seriously... congrats on having all your hard work come together!
(see?? I can be nice sometimes)
Sweet......good to see another 2F-E on the road!!
- Thread starter
- #236
Yup, it's on the road, and so far it seems good and strong. Need to get some exhaust work done and put on some more miles before I can really put it through it's paces, but with about 15 miles on it the 0-100 km/h time was ~16 sec (vs. 19.3 with the 3FE). I take that as a 20% boost in power at the rear wheels, and it certainly isn't broken in yet. 
It seems to have much the same powerband as the 3FE, coming on strong at ~2500 and building up through 3500 anyway. Can't wait to put the boots to it once all has seated well and the exhaust is sealed.
The issues we found on start up:
1) The fuel line to the cold start injector was seeping a bit (onto the exhaust), just needed the banjo bolts snugged up.
2) One (non-stock) bolt on the thermostat housing was seeping coolant, replace with a stock bolt and a touch of pipe-dope, all is well.
3) Started to run hot. Thought the fan clutch was not kicking in... but after a while it did and the temp dropped. Think this was because I left the fan shroud off for the initial start up, so the clutch wasn't seeing the heat to engauge. Hasn't run hot since adding the shroud.
4) Idle is excessively high (1500 rpm in neutral once warmed up). Haven't corrected this yet. The ISC valve tests out fine (though perhaps the wiring to it is pooched?). Will have to play with the wiring to the ISC valve and see if the situation changes, or it goes away as the computer learns the new engine. If neither solves it, I guess I'll have to open up the idle bypass screw in the throttle body and cut down the amount of bypassed air.
5) The fuel cut feature (when you back completely off the thottle at speed) is much more pronounced than before.... perhaps related to the larger TB bore/plate size?
Or maybe I need to re-check the TPS set-up (could help with idle too....).
6) Valve cover is tight to the firewall seam when pulling it off to adjust valves. I needed to bend the seam up to make room.
7) Seems to be another slight coolant seep I need to track down, dripping down off of the relay rod.
Start up vids to follow once I have a chance to compress and upload them.
It seems to have much the same powerband as the 3FE, coming on strong at ~2500 and building up through 3500 anyway. Can't wait to put the boots to it once all has seated well and the exhaust is sealed. The issues we found on start up:
1) The fuel line to the cold start injector was seeping a bit (onto the exhaust
), just needed the banjo bolts snugged up.2) One (non-stock) bolt on the thermostat housing was seeping coolant, replace with a stock bolt and a touch of pipe-dope, all is well.
3) Started to run hot. Thought the fan clutch was not kicking in... but after a while it did and the temp dropped. Think this was because I left the fan shroud off for the initial start up, so the clutch wasn't seeing the heat to engauge. Hasn't run hot since adding the shroud.
4) Idle is excessively high (1500 rpm in neutral once warmed up). Haven't corrected this yet. The ISC valve tests out fine (though perhaps the wiring to it is pooched?). Will have to play with the wiring to the ISC valve and see if the situation changes, or it goes away as the computer learns the new engine. If neither solves it, I guess I'll have to open up the idle bypass screw in the throttle body and cut down the amount of bypassed air.
5) The fuel cut feature (when you back completely off the thottle at speed) is much more pronounced than before.... perhaps related to the larger TB bore/plate size?
Or maybe I need to re-check the TPS set-up (could help with idle too....).6) Valve cover is tight to the firewall seam when pulling it off to adjust valves. I needed to bend the seam up to make room.
7) Seems to be another slight coolant seep I need to track down, dripping down off of the relay rod.
Start up vids to follow once I have a chance to compress and upload them.
Looking forward to the videos!
Agree. Good work.
Oh man, I forgot about #6. Yup, I had to bend that seam up also and it is still tight/twisty to get off and on.
- Thread starter
- #240
Startup video:
After dying initially, it started right back up and we ran it at 1500-2000 for 5 minutes till I noticed the leaking fuel. After tightening up the banjo bolts we ran it for the remaining 15 minutes to break in the cam, and took it for a quick drive "around the block". After looking everything over when cold the next day I fired it up and monkeyed with the timing by vacuum reading. Then I re-adjusted the valves. I ended up backing off the timing a bit till I get the exhaust done (tomorrow I hope), so I'll be able to hear any ping.
When I played with the timing, the vacuum climbed as I advanced it across the whole adjustment slot in the distributor base.... reaching about 13" or 14". This makes me wonder if I am off a tooth, have a vacuum leak, or if a fresh rebuild just doesn't pull as much vacuum till the rings get sealed... should be around 18" or 19", shouldn't it? But then, I did this before adjusting the valves anyway, and the intakes had to be loosened to go from the Toyota spec to the Delta spec.
After dying initially, it started right back up and we ran it at 1500-2000 for 5 minutes till I noticed the leaking fuel. After tightening up the banjo bolts we ran it for the remaining 15 minutes to break in the cam, and took it for a quick drive "around the block". After looking everything over when cold the next day I fired it up and monkeyed with the timing by vacuum reading. Then I re-adjusted the valves. I ended up backing off the timing a bit till I get the exhaust done (tomorrow I hope), so I'll be able to hear any ping.
When I played with the timing, the vacuum climbed as I advanced it across the whole adjustment slot in the distributor base.... reaching about 13" or 14". This makes me wonder if I am off a tooth, have a vacuum leak, or if a fresh rebuild just doesn't pull as much vacuum till the rings get sealed... should be around 18" or 19", shouldn't it? But then, I did this before adjusting the valves anyway, and the intakes had to be loosened to go from the Toyota spec to the Delta spec.
