PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I think '85 was the change to the world market 3F head... but that thread would show for sure.
That is how I take Jim C's post from that thread:
Mace,
If you had to pick one 2F to build, the 85-end models are best. They have all the upgrades of the 81-85, plus in 85 they got:
-the 3F cylinder head, which gives the option of running the 3F manifolds
-the 3F head gasket with better coolant flow direction
-screw in oil galley plugs (I really like this)
-slight improvement w/ the 3piece thrust bearing
-torx screws in timing plate(which should be added to any engine).
However, if you start w/ a 4230cc engine that is 8.3:1, then punch it 1.5mm OS, the result is 4367cc at 8.57:1. Usually the head is milled a little to clean up the face, which will get up to 8.7:1. If the engine is gonna be blown on, that's a pretty high CR, without modern feedback control systems.
The lightened valvetrain came along in mid 1979.
On the rods, newer is definitely better. As Mark mentioned, it's marginally lighter, but it's also much stronger because of the extra finishing on the I-beam.
I've got a picture here of the 79-earlier rod vs. the 80-later rod, but can't figger out how to post it.![]()
If the engine is gonna be spun, it should be balanced to zero. Early 2F and all F engines are often out by several OUNCES. No, not grams. Rods are out by 20 grams or more, cranks off by 50, flywheels off by 30. The only thing that keeps a 1971 F engine together at speed is sheer stubbornness. The 81-newer engines were destined for cushy FJ60 wagons, so they finally started paying attention to balancing. They are usually only out by an ounce.
HTH
That would be sweet to just bolt up your 3FE manifolds to an existing block/head combo.
But what do you do about PCV?
