Unmovable? Will it turn backwards? Could it be hydro locked? That would suck...sorry, that was insensitive.
Head Gasket done - no start (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter musthave
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
It wouldn't turn CW with around 150 pounds of force. I haven't tried it CCW. Don't know how it could/would be hydro locked. It ran for maybe 4 seconds Smoothly. Then stopped cold. No noise, no thunk, just stopped.
mingles
GOLD Star
You'll get this. When all is said and done, it will turn out just fine. Know that you have a whole community of Mudders pulling for you 
.
.
- Thread starter
- #44
Thanks man, I appreciate it! This one has me but good. It just doesn't make any sense that it would seize. I'm going to hit it in the morning with a clear head. I'll post here and hope something works out. Thank youYou'll get this. When all is said and done, it will turn out just fine. Know that you have a whole community of Mudders pulling for you
No. The firing order stays the same. It just changes 180 degrees With respect to the cam. Works on all engines that have an even number of cylinders.
If something was shorted out, it may have stuck an injector open and flooded a cylinder with gasoline. Definitely pull the plugs as the next step. Otherwise, you may hydrolock a cylinder and you can bend a rod doing that.
Drain your oil and refill. Also change filter
Do a compression test to see which cylinder failed.
I'm sorry for your loss..... again.
- Thread starter
- #49
Can you do a compression test if the crankshaft won't turn? It's not budging.
Since you pulled the plugs, now try to turn it over. It should puke out coolant out of one of the spark plug tubes.
If it still won't turn over, check your timing chain parts.
Also check your starter and torque converter to make sure one or the other isn't jammed. Sometimes the TC wasn't seated all the way before bolted back together and that causes any issue.
The fact that there is coolant on top of the head and it wasn't turning tells me it's either a cracked head or the HG immediately failed.
It wouldn't turn over with the plugs in it because the cylinder was hydrolocked
That's what I was afraid of, and why I mentioned it.
FaCk what a mess.
I feel for you brother, been there with motorcycles; same hobby, just smaller parts.
And just as heart breaking when a rebuild goes pear-shaped.
With any luck it didn't bend a rod.
FaCk what a mess.
I feel for you brother, been there with motorcycles; same hobby, just smaller parts.
And just as heart breaking when a rebuild goes pear-shaped.
With any luck it didn't bend a rod.
- Thread starter
- #53
I put a scope down the tubes, they are dry, no coolant. Valve cover is off. Timing chain is super tight. I will check the starter, would seem odd, but I guess it's a possibility.
There is coolant on top of the head. That would only come from the oil or a crack in the head.
If the timing chain is extremely tight, can you run the borescope down that area to look for a failed gear or chain or a tensioner that came apart?
So, it still won't turn?
If not, that's something mechanical.
Try turning the engine backwards. If it moves, there is something stopping it.
Oh man.......!
Wasn't expecting to see that. I really thought you'd find a fuel flooded cylinder when removing the plugs and rotating the engine.
Wasn't expecting to see that. I really thought you'd find a fuel flooded cylinder when removing the plugs and rotating the engine.
What about the oil cooler? Did it get installed and didn't leak?
That could have flooded the oil pan with coolant, but wouldn't stop the rotation.
That could have flooded the oil pan with coolant, but wouldn't stop the rotation.
- Thread starter
- #57
Yes, coolant on top of the head, had to come from oil or a crack in the head. I put the borescope down the timing chain and don't see anything obvious. Tensioner appears to be fine. Will not turn at all, CW or CCW (though I didn't put a lot of force on CCW).
I wasn't sure what to expect but would have been happier with fuel flooded at this point.
The oil cooler may be the origin of failure. There are a few red drops of radiator fluid from two bolts. I suspect that is what may have flooded the oil pan, and then caused the failure. Only thing that makes any sense at this point.
I fear that at this point a connecting rod on 2, 3, 4, or 5 is broken and preventing the crankshaft from turning or perhaps a piston is likely frozen in place and can't move.
I could remove the timing chain from the camshaft, but if I do, there is no way that I can turn the cams correctly so that I can remove the head. As they aren't pointed correctly, I would imagine that there is no good way to remove the screws and caps without breaking the camshaft or the head. There may be a way, but I don't know what that is.
I'd guess that my only option at this point is to pull the engine and transmission and separate them, and take the engine to a shop to see what happened and what the damage is. Am I wrong?
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
Pull the lower oil pan and inspect the cylinders from the bottom with a borescope. If a conrod broke, you should be able to see some evidence.
This is not an interference engine meaning the valves will not contact the piston if timing chain fails.
You would have to remove the timing chain, remove the cam timing gear, and reinstall on the cam to give you something to turn it with. Use a strap wrench. Then you can rotate cams to proper location to remove the head.
Dump your oil first and look for metal particulate. That will determine if you just need to pull the whole damn thing.
No idea why multiple posts 
Last edited:
