What type of hosing did you use for the Provent? I’m about to install one on my BJ71 and I’m having a tough time getting the right type of hose which will handle oil mist
Builds HDJ77 Build for Midwest Overlanding (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GreaseMonkeyJP
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #122
I just used SAE 30R7 "fuel hose". It is available by the foot in a selection of sizes(standard not metric) at local parts stores here in the US.
I just brought in the provent and found the hoses that fit the best.
I just brought in the provent and found the hoses that fit the best.
- Thread starter
- #123
Well after over a yr I finally had a turn signal bulb burn out. So it was finally time to update them all to LED.
I also did the parking lights, reverse lights and brake lights.
It's a little bit of extra light output, and seams like a good upgrade.
I also did the parking lights, reverse lights and brake lights.
It's a little bit of extra light output, and seams like a good upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #124
Well summer finally made it to Michigan so I decided it was time to get the AC working again.
The problem was that the AC compressor in the vehicle has the short nose, but the 1HD-FT used the long nose so the pulleys didn't exactly line up.
So I fabricated up a new tensioner pulley bracket with the pulley in the correct location.
After that I switched out the crankshaft pulley for one from a 1HZ(the stubby impact just barely fit, but I was able to switch it out with out removing the radiator)
It all went back together without any issues and the AC is back to blowing cold again.
The problem was that the AC compressor in the vehicle has the short nose, but the 1HD-FT used the long nose so the pulleys didn't exactly line up.
So I fabricated up a new tensioner pulley bracket with the pulley in the correct location.
After that I switched out the crankshaft pulley for one from a 1HZ(the stubby impact just barely fit, but I was able to switch it out with out removing the radiator)
It all went back together without any issues and the AC is back to blowing cold again.
- Thread starter
- #125
Finally got around to a small change to the interior.
The screws on the dash we're mismatched, so after hunting around a little at the local hardware store I found a stainless screw #10x3/4", 1”option that worked well.
The screws on the dash we're mismatched, so after hunting around a little at the local hardware store I found a stainless screw #10x3/4", 1”option that worked well.
- Thread starter
- #126
Continuing with the cosmetic upgrades, it finally recieved a bit of a facelift:
Before:
After:
It definitely looks much better, however I still have some fitment issues that have to be resolved. (Some modifications will be required to get all of the mounting bolts to fit)
Now I just need a winch to go into that fancy new bumper...
Before:
After:
It definitely looks much better, however I still have some fitment issues that have to be resolved. (Some modifications will be required to get all of the mounting bolts to fit)
Now I just need a winch to go into that fancy new bumper...
- Thread starter
- #127
So instead of cutting into a new bumper to get it to fit I switched over to a long neglected project of the front hubs.
It came with the notoriously unreliable power locking hubs, which of course only one of the 2 worked most of the time. So over a year ago had purchased some used manual hubs, and everything to rebuild them. Then the engine blew up and they sat on the shelf for a while so the first step was dusting off the parts
After a little bit of sand blasting they were painted with engine enamel (to withstand the brake rotor temps), and then new slotted brake rotors were attached with new studs.
Unfortunately when I went to install these with some new ebc brake pads I ran into a bit of a problem. I ordered brake pads for an 80series which most people say should work however I found that the low thickness warning tabs don't match and contacted the knuckle:
So out came the grinder along with some of that engine enamel and problem solved:
Personally I like the look of the manual hubs so I guess this could be called a cosmetic upgrade as well:
It came with the notoriously unreliable power locking hubs, which of course only one of the 2 worked most of the time. So over a year ago had purchased some used manual hubs, and everything to rebuild them. Then the engine blew up and they sat on the shelf for a while so the first step was dusting off the parts
After a little bit of sand blasting they were painted with engine enamel (to withstand the brake rotor temps), and then new slotted brake rotors were attached with new studs.
Unfortunately when I went to install these with some new ebc brake pads I ran into a bit of a problem. I ordered brake pads for an 80series which most people say should work however I found that the low thickness warning tabs don't match and contacted the knuckle:
So out came the grinder along with some of that engine enamel and problem solved:
Personally I like the look of the manual hubs so I guess this could be called a cosmetic upgrade as well:
- Thread starter
- #129
The bumper is from Cruiser Outfitters.
I just replied to their bumper thread so it is back on top again.
I just replied to their bumper thread so it is back on top again.
- Thread starter
- #130
To get ready for the long drive to the meet & greet I finally got around to switching out the seats.
So everything came off of the floor
Then the original floor bracket had to be slightly modified:
Then after adding some insulation on the floor. I made some brackets for the seat frames, and wired in a converter to supply the 12V power for the seats, and in they went.
They are heated leather seats out of a Volvo S60, but as of right now I still have to figure out how to get the seat heaters to work.
So everything came off of the floor
Then the original floor bracket had to be slightly modified:
Then after adding some insulation on the floor. I made some brackets for the seat frames, and wired in a converter to supply the 12V power for the seats, and in they went.
They are heated leather seats out of a Volvo S60, but as of right now I still have to figure out how to get the seat heaters to work.
Just make sure you bring the drone.
Looking good man!!
tucker74
Moderator
Looking good, those are some fancy seats but should prove useful on longer journeys. What is you plan with the original PZ?
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #134
I will have the drone, I am just going to be missing a co-driver for getting some action shots. Hopefully someone will be willing to sit in the fancy seats and drive for me for a little bit.Just make sure you bring the drone.
- Thread starter
- #137
The original seats just had the typical wear (ie. The drivers side foam had failed on the outside and been ”repaired") the fabric was still in pretty good condition thought.
My biggest reasons for the change were actually increased adjustability, and the leather. Leather sounds like an unnecessary item, but if you like watersports it is really a necessary item to not be soaking fabric seats all of the time.
My biggest reasons for the change were actually increased adjustability, and the leather. Leather sounds like an unnecessary item, but if you like watersports it is really a necessary item to not be soaking fabric seats all of the time.
subscribed
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 199
- Messages
- 12,404
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
You were able to torque that crank nut on the pulley to 365ftlbs without more tear down?
Cheers
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #140
For the main pulley I just left it in gear and with the parking brake was able to get pretty close. Not the best method, but no issues so far. If I had the SST to hold the pulley I would have been able to get that in there, and there was enough space for my largest torque wrench.
