Would you look at that....PASSENGER side. And OP says so plain and clear in his first post.
I’m glad that I could add to the body of knowledge here at least that there is no locker ECU pigtail on the DRIVER side
Harrop E-Locker using OEM Switch and Dash Lights in a HDJ81 / FJ80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Malahki
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Would you look at that....PASSENGER side. And OP says so plain and clear in his first post.
I’m glad that I could add to the body of knowledge here at least that there is no locker ECU pigtail on the DRIVER side
View attachment 2380429
Would you look at that....PASSENGER side. And OP says so plain and clear in his first post.
I’m glad that I could add to the body of knowledge here at least that there is no locker ECU pigtail on the DRIVER side
There ya go! It's kind of a pain to get the female pins out, but plug those OEM repair wires in first into the plug to make sure you have the correct wires prior to pulling them out of the plug. My wire colors/numbers didn't match up quite exactly as the OP posted. Then I fit the female into the male end and soldered them together and finished it off with shrink wrap over the completed joint.
How cool is this thread. I am really excited to get this job done. Thanks a lot for posting this information.
Sorry for my ignorance. I am terrible with electrical diagrams.
What does the square in the bottom right corner of the diagrams represent? With pin numbers 85, 86, 87 etc.
Sorry again just want to understand this as I'm about to undertake the same thing.
Cheers!
Lachy
What does the square in the bottom right corner of the diagrams represent? With pin numbers 85, 86, 87 etc.
Sorry again just want to understand this as I'm about to undertake the same thing.
Cheers!
Lachy
Typical 4 post relay. There are also 5 post relays....but wouldn't be used in this application.
A little about relays to help you understand why we use them:
Okay thanks for that!
So it would be referring to an existing relay in the landcruiser would it?
NO!
You'll be adding everything except for any wiring harnesses already present on your vehicle.
That is what the 'list' of parts is for at the beginning of this thread.
You can pick up relays at any automotive store, just be sure you get the correct type.
But sounds like you might do best to have someone familiar with electrical circuits and wiring do it for you.
I haven't read the whole thread but perhaps someone can offer insight... Doesn't the factory switch require you to lock the rear before the front? Seems like a perk of aftermarket lockers would be the option to lock the front only if you wanted, requiring the front and rear on different switches. That's how I do it if I were to add lockers to mine.
Yes, the factory set up does.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
There are very few times when you will want your front locked without the rear. I am yet to come across a situation where I needed the front locked but could have benefitted form having the rear unlocked.
Correct. Likewise the factory wiring set up won't allow power to either locker without the center diff locked first.
There must be a good reason Toyota did it this way and still do to this day. Maybe its super extra mega bad for the drive train to have just the front locked?
I also have heard that it can be very dangerous having a front locker engaged on a steep descent as it restricts the steering and can cause the front to slide easily. This effect is probably amplified without a rear locker engaged at the same time.
I've got the switch and bulbs installed and once I get the lockers I will be wiring it as close to oem as possible. But each to their own.... I just like Toyota's style
having trouble acquiring OEM terminal wires 82998-12160 x5 in Australia - local toyota parts dealers dont seem to recognise the number and the ones they had in stock labelled terminal repair looks very different than OP's pic.
anyone able to help post them from the US?
anyone able to help post them from the US?
Doing this path, can you engage in hi or does it follow the oem logic and require low gear?
So you don't have to research it, if you have the CDL switch and have done the "pin 7 mod", you can engage the Harrop lockers in high with the CDL engaged.
I didnt even think of the pin 7 mod behavior. Since it interrupts the ecu feed…makes sense. Thanks!
No disrespect to the OP or anyone that has gone through the pains of the OEM setup, but WHY would you want to do this??? Just to have the little glowing 4x4 diagrams on your dash???
It makes no sense to me since most experienced off road drivers install the CDL switch and the pin 7 mod which deviates from the OEM setup anyway. The statements that Toyota must've had a good reason for doing it this way just kinda fade into the distance. Personally, I don't want an OEM electronic chip controlling my rig off road, especially when its 27 yrs old. As for safety and overstressing the drive train, experience is paramount. You'll develop a sense of when the drive train is bound up. When you're driving in the kind of terrain that requires axle lockers, it pays dividends to be gentle on the skinny pedal most of the time - but there are exceptions. One thing's for sure, you don't want that front locker engaged on a high traction surface unless you have a H.D. hydraulic steering upgrade. You have to experience trying to steer with the front locker engaged to appreciate what I'm talking about. It only takes once: "Why is thing so hard to steer - oh, xxxxx the front locker is on!!!" and you probably won't do it again...
BTW, I have Harrops installed both front and rear completely independent of OEM seup for 3 yrs with no ill effects.
It makes no sense to me since most experienced off road drivers install the CDL switch and the pin 7 mod which deviates from the OEM setup anyway. The statements that Toyota must've had a good reason for doing it this way just kinda fade into the distance. Personally, I don't want an OEM electronic chip controlling my rig off road, especially when its 27 yrs old. As for safety and overstressing the drive train, experience is paramount. You'll develop a sense of when the drive train is bound up. When you're driving in the kind of terrain that requires axle lockers, it pays dividends to be gentle on the skinny pedal most of the time - but there are exceptions. One thing's for sure, you don't want that front locker engaged on a high traction surface unless you have a H.D. hydraulic steering upgrade. You have to experience trying to steer with the front locker engaged to appreciate what I'm talking about. It only takes once: "Why is thing so hard to steer - oh, xxxxx the front locker is on!!!" and you probably won't do it again...BTW, I have Harrops installed both front and rear completely independent of OEM seup for 3 yrs with no ill effects.
I refuse to believe this is a valid reason to not have independent control of front and rear axle lockers. Say, for example for some reason, your rear locker is rendered inoperable. With the OEM setup, you wouldn't be able to use either locker. In a situation where either locker would get you through, with OEM, you'd still be hung up, stuck or whatever. True, that's probably a rare situation....but, there you go....a very conceivable situation considering the age of our rigs. Not only that, but as I've said before, I'm just not comfortable with a microchip limiting my control of my off road traction....call me old school.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
You still have the front locker if your rear fails in this wiring configuration. The ecu isn't involved. It's just a 2 stage switch. First stage powers the rear locker, second stage powers both.I refuse to believe this is a valid reason to not have independent control of front and rear axle lockers. Say, for example for some reason, your rear locker is rendered inoperable. With the OEM setup, you wouldn't be able to use either locker. In a situation where either locker would get you through, with OEM, you'd still be hung up, stuck or whatever. True, that's probably a rare situation....but, there you go....a very conceivable situation considering the age of our rigs. Not only that, but as I've said before, I'm just not comfortable with a microchip limiting my control of my off road traction....call me old school.
ppc
M Go Blue
Not a true statement. The only requirement of OEM setup is that the Center Diff locks and confirmed by the dash light then either locker can be engaged without the other.
That's not what I've been led to believe, but if you have 1st hand knowledge or have experienced this before....I stand corrected!
I still like my Harrop solution compared to OEM. The light on the switch confirms it's engaged or not:
Edit: And oh BTW, I don't need to have my CDL locked to engage an axle locker. Just more "tools in the traction toolbox" when you might possibly need it.
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