Harrop E-Locker using OEM Switch and Dash Lights in a HDJ81 / FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[stewtopia]

That's not what I've been led to believe, but if you have 1st hand knowledge or have experienced this before....I stand corrected!

I still like my Harrop solution compared to OEM. The light on the switch confirms it's engaged or not:
Edit: And oh BTW, I don't need to have my CDL locked to engage a locker. Just more "tools in the traction toolbox" when you might possibly need it.

View attachment 2905227

I have the same setup as yours. There are times I am having trouble getting my front wheels to bite on something I am about to climb up and I just throw the front locker on. I find it more versatile than the factory locker switch. I actually bought the factory switch but decided it was too much work for a little less functionality.

Good thread though. I don't want to take away from the good work done here. Just my 2 cents.

 

[80t0ylc]

Good thread though. I don't want to take away from the good work done here. Just my 2 cents.

I agree 100%! I just think that sticking to OEM, whether in looks or function, is not necessarily the best choice for those interested in performance. Being old school, I like having full control of traction choices. For example, if it were my choice, the CDL would be locked or unlocked with a separate manual shift lever. Electronics are nice, but definitely fragile as time goes by.

 

[Czechmate]

I have the same set up, just different type of switches. By the time I ordered my lockers I guess Eaton had evidently separated their arrangement with Harrop and sold their own elocker with different switch. I had initially planned to go the OEM switch route but liked the newer Eaton switch, has this little safety button on the switch to prevent accidental engagement. I really like this set up now.

 

[NorthWA]

@NLXTACY guessing you have seen this thread already? I know on your project list…..

 

[NLXTACY]

I agree 100%! I just think that sticking to OEM, whether in looks or function, is not necessarily the best choice for those interested in performance. Being old school, I like having full control of traction choices. For example, if it were my choice, the CDL would be locked or unlocked with a separate manual shift lever. Electronics are nice, but definitely fragile as time goes by.

I’ve seen many issues with shift levers as well. Nothing is immune to wear/issues. The HDJ61 I’ve been working on has been a mess.

 

[NLXTACY]

@NLXTACY guessing you have seen this thread already? I know on your project list…..

Had not.

The Eaton lockers have a very very different wiring setup from the Harrops years ago. Adding the dial to the Harrops was pretty straight forward and I did a handful. I have a set of Eatons here for a custom and it’s not as straight forward but not a huge deal. Basically the thing to think about is the Eatons are positive switched and you want to convert it to ground switched to work with the dial.

 

[80t0ylc]

I’ve seen many issues with shift levers as well. Nothing is immune to wear/issues. The HDJ61 I’ve been working on has been a mess.

As someone who has wheeled since the 1960's, not sure what you mean by the "many issues". Shift levers either work or they don't - easy to field trouble shoot and maintain. Usually have clues or symptoms in advance of failure that say - "hey, take a look at me before I die!" ECU's and solenoids are fine, until they get old and unreliable - easy to ignore until they die. Vibration, which is constant off road, adds additional challenge to electronic components, not to mention extreme temps. I do love the 80's T/C shift lever and it seems to be extremely reliable. Maybe it's just the times and being an old fart, although full time 4WD is nice, no jumping out into the mud or snow to engage the hubs. And e-lockers definitely are a necessity over auto lockers in a full time rig for maintaining control on slick surfaces.

But in the spirit of this thread, and for those that own an originally "unlocked" 80 series and place value in making it appear to resemble what you could buy as an option "back in the day", this thread has some good info!

 

[TexFJ]

If you forget to buy the bulb and bulb holder you can always use the least used and least missed dash light, the seat belt light bulh. haha. That's what I'm doing.

Also, what the hell is this light?

 

[NorthWA]

If you forget to buy the bulb and bulb holder you can always use the least used and least missed dash light, the seat belt light bulh. haha. That's what I'm doing.

Also, what the hell is this light? View attachment 2953996

I believe it is the clogged air filter light for the diesel versions?

 

[TexFJ]

Just got done following these great instructions with the Eaton lockers. No need to worry about anything else, just the one relay to make the light work.

Had a scare when I was testing the lockers, seems like the car needs to be running to get all the voltages up to get the main locker relay to turn on. ( a brief cussing session)

 

[Tonkaboy]

I have the same set up, just different type of switches. By the time I ordered my lockers I guess Eaton had evidently separated their arrangement with Harrop and sold their own elocker with different switch. I had initially planned to go the OEM switch route but liked the newer Eaton switch, has this little safety button on the switch to prevent accidental engagement. I really like this set up now.

...

For general ref, these newer Eaton-ized switches came with mine, mfg dates on the boxes were 6/2021 front & 8/2021 rear

 

[Rusty Marlin]

is there any reason this wouldn't work with air lockers to fire the solenoids?

 

[landcrshr]

is there any reason this wouldn't work with air lockers to fire the solenoids?

Nope, you can wire the dial switch directly to the solenoids, no relays required.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Nope, you can wire the dial switch directly to the solenoids, no relays required.

But isn't the relay used to power the dash lamp?

 

[landcrshr]

But isn't the relay used to power the dash lamp?

If you want to utilize the dash lamp then yes, you'll need something like a relay. I'm using a pressure switch on the air line to trigger the light.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

If you want to utilize the dash lamp then yes, you'll need something like a relay. I'm using a pressure switch on the air line to trigger the light.

I like that idea. While not a perfect confirmation signal, at least you know there's air to engage the locker. I was trying to figure out a hall sensor that could see the shuttle, decided it wasn't worth the hassle.

 

[ChappieAI]

I'm so confused, I bought the switch and installed it but will it still work even though the lights aren't kicking on?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

In order to get the lights to work you have to ground their wires through a relay triggered by the switch.
To answer your question, yes the locker will work without the lights as they are not part of the locker system, just an an indicator.

 

[ChappieAI]

In order to get the lights to work you have to ground their wires through a relay triggered by the switch.
To answer your question, yes the locker will work without the lights as they are not part of the locker system, just an an indicator.

Well that's the thing, I can see the indicator on the dash for front and rear locks, I bought the switch and installed it today never cam with the oem switch I plugged it in I just don't know if I have triple lock, any way to tell if you do?

 

[elbobino]

Well that's the thing, I can see the indicator on the dash for front and rear locks, I bought the switch and installed it today never cam with the oem switch I plugged it in I just don't know if I have triple lock, any way to tell if you do?

Tag on driver door does it say k292 towards the bottom?