Hardtop bolts are snapping off..

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Sep 28, 2011
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Northern California
So I'm trying to take my hardtop off into 3 pieces due to lack of storage space and the fact that it is only me and I have no help. Also I'd like to replace these old bolts anyway.

I'm trying to take off the fiberglass hardtop bolts and so far 3 of 3 have snapped right in half like they are made of plastic.

I sprayed some PB blaster on them about 4 hours ago with really no noticeable results. It seems like the only part rusted is the outermost part of the bolt, because the parts that are coming out are shiny looking.

So what are my options here? Is it a major pain in the ass to drill them out?

009-1.jpg
 
I am just starting a frame down rebuild. I have used much WD-40 and still have busted more screw tops and boltheads than I care to say.

busted-s.jpg


The only advice is: It will happen - curse the metal maker for the amazing rustability of these wonderful machines. :wrench:
 
The penetrating oil is a good idea but I reckon you shouldn't even try to backout that much rusted thread.I recommend cutting off the surplus thread (and a Dremel-type tool would probably work best in that confined space). Then the heat generated by the cutting would likely assist the shortened screws to come out cleanly too.Cheers
 
Just drill em out. Cut the backs off and drillem. Just use nuts on the reinstall.
 
Those will not come out in that condition. Those threads need a major clean up b-4 even attempting. If you have a die that will fit in there, run it down as far as possible, then work them out slowly, running them back in every 1/4 to 1/2 turn to clear the crud. If the heads are popping off you can just grab them from the backside and run them out that way.
 
I am just starting a frame down rebuild. I have used much WD-40 and still have busted more screw tops and boltheads than I care to say.



The only advice is: It will happen - curse the metal maker for the amazing rustability of these wonderful machines. :wrench:


How does one bend a drill bit like that?
 
The penetrating oil is a good idea but I reckon you shouldn't even try to backout that much rusted thread.I recommend cutting off the surplus thread (and a Dremel-type tool would probably work best in that confined space). Then the heat generated by the cutting would likely assist the shortened screws to come out cleanly too.Cheers

Good advice - I have done this as well with good results
 
The penetrating oil is a good idea but I reckon you shouldn't even try to backout that much rusted thread.I recommend cutting off the surplus thread (and a Dremel-type tool would probably work best in that confined space). Then the heat generated by the cutting would likely assist the shortened screws to come out cleanly too.Cheers

That is what I was thinking as well. That's an awful lot of rusty bolt to come through that hole. I was thinking since it snapped pretty easy if I could just break it off with a sharp chisle, but I may have to seek out a dremel for that.

I will also consider crazygreeks suggestion of just drilling them out all together and adding a bolt. I will try to clean them up first and put some more lube on them and see if i can work them loose.

Looks like I got a bit of a project on my hands either way, but it sure will be nice when I replace all those rusty 40 year old bolts.
 
Just drill em out. Cut the backs off and drillem. Just use nuts on the reinstall.

Eew. :hillbilly:

I will also consider crazygreeks suggestion of just drilling them out all together and adding a bolt. I will try to clean them up first and put some more lube on them and see if i can work them loose.

Don't. Take your time, use better penetrant. WD-40 is not the right tool for the job. Use PB Blaster or Kroil. Don't overdrill the holes. Just run a tap down them when you get the bolts out.
 
FJsnoozer said:
Heat, pb blaster and the turn to tighten first and break the bond. Especially helpful on screws where you risk stripping the head.

Heat is tricky in that area with the Fiberglas top. When I did mine I pb blasted the heck out of them and tried to save as many as I could, but don't waste hours getting bent over them. Drill out the most stubborn and use stainless hardware. This is a hidden area and it makes no difference either way.

:beer:
 
whuut...you are doing a rebuild, so you will use new hardware on the reinstall....snap those rusty btards.
Don't waste time or money on chemicals, snap and go!

Last time I checked, rusty, broken factory bolts weren't even selling on Egay
 
Just did mine and had the same problem. I drilled several out with a 13/64 bit and re tapped them . You could even use a slightly smaller bit and have good results. A couple didn't work very well so they now have nuts on the back side, not a big deal. I wouldn't waste my time trying to get those rusty thing's out.
 
Small vise grips on the inside and screw the threads through. It takes a little time working upside down backwards. Only had three to do on mine. If you can drill a small pilot hole through, without hitting the threads, that will heat up the area for the BP to sink into. Use a piece of metal to protect the fiberglass vs drill bit contact. :doh:.
Shane
 
How does one bend a drill bit like that?

I don't know, I just don't know... It must have gotten hot enough, and the pressure I was putting on it... first time I'd ever seen that as well. So I captured it for posterity.

I have many out and out busted ones...
 
I am just starting a frame down rebuild. I have used much WD-40 and still have busted more screw tops and boltheads than I care to say.

busted-s.jpg


The only advice is: It will happen - curse the metal maker for the amazing rustability of these wonderful machines. :wrench:


I've heard of right hand drills for close quarters, now i've actually seen one. :cheers:
 

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