Hard Fuel & Brake Lines for FJ60

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Over the winter months here in New England I'm looking to replace all the hard fuel and brake lines on my FJ60. Mine are completely rusted or crimped. The body is off the frame so there won't be an easier time to access it.

Wondering what others have done with replacing all the necessary lines. Is there someone on here that makes a kit?

Any insight is welcomed.
 
I’ve never done it, but I was recently searching for some replacement sections. Sounds like most parts are no longer available. So, you can find used ones or you find a local shop to fabricate them for you based on the originals.
 
It’s pretty easy to bend up your own if you are up for it. On my fj40, I helped bend and flare the lines when we replaced all of them. You can get good NiCop (Nickle Copoer) line, hand bender and a flaring tool off Amazon for a very reasonable price (less then $70). Then just copy the bends in the existing lines and reinstall.
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As Jen pointed out, the tube bending, particularly with the Ni-Cu tube, is easy, though may not be as pretty as the OE lines, depending on your skill and tools.

The more exacting part is the 'Double (inverted) Flare' ends that require a learning curve to get right so they don't leak. The learning curve is greatly reduced depending on the quality (and cost) of flaring tool you get.

Buy the Ni Cu tube and double-flare nuts separately.

Bel-Metric has good quality ones, and I think tubing also.


 
Another vote for Cu-Ni lines, which will be more resistant to corrosion than steel lines, along with being easier to work.

I've made both brake and fuel lines for my 60-series, and the one thing I would suggest is to buy one of these flaring tools:


Don't waste your time with the cheaper clamp-type flaring tools. There's nothing more frustrating than painstakingly bending a new line, only to have your flare destroyed by a substandard tool.

Brake flare nuts on the 60s should all be M10x1.0. I have definitely been known to re-use the fittings from my old lines if they're in passable shape.
 
As Jen pointed out, the tube bending, particularly with the Ni-Cu tube, is easy, though may not be as pretty as the OE lines, depending on your skill and tools.

The more exacting part is the 'Double (inverted) Flare' ends that require a learning curve to get right so they don't leak. The learning curve is greatly reduced depending on the quality (and cost) of flaring tool you get.

Buy the Ni Cu tube and double-flare nuts separately.

Bel-Metric has good quality ones, and I think tubing also.


Thanks for passing along that thread, I will be sure to look through it for additional information.

As you mentioned, the learning curve will certainly be in the flaring process but with a little time and practice, I'm optimistic!
 
Another vote for Cu-Ni lines, which will be more resistant to corrosion than steel lines, along with being easier to work.

I've made both brake and fuel lines for my 60-series, and the one thing I would suggest is to buy one of these flaring tools:


Don't waste your time with the cheaper clamp-type flaring tools. There's nothing more frustrating than painstakingly bending a new line, only to have your flare destroyed by a substandard tool.

Brake flare nuts on the 60s should all be M10x1.0. I have definitely been known to re-use the fittings from my old lines if they're in passable shape.
Thanks for sending along that recommendation on the tool.

Out of curiosity, what material did you use to make your fuel lines? They are different size and material that the brake lines correct?
 
Thanks for sending along that recommendation on the tool.

Out of curiosity, what material did you use to make your fuel lines? They are different size and material that the brake lines correct?
I believe it was 5/16” Cu-Ni for the fuel line.
 
Thanks for sending along that recommendation on the tool.

Out of curiosity, what material did you use to make your fuel lines? They are different size and material that the brake lines correct?
I’ve got a nice set of serviceable factory fuel lines that I recently removed. Let me know if you’re interested.

Cheers, James
 

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